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Fire Extinguisher mounting in cab (pics & advice)

Yeah, chalk up another vote for in the cab, within arms reach from the drivers seat.

We always assume that the fire will be in the engine, and that we will be more than able to get out and open the hood etc etc.. but I like knowing that if I'm not able to get out, or that getting out might take a while, I can keep some fire off me arse ... until I can get out, or be helped out.

Just something to think about, in the event that the fire is started due to damage from an accident (for us street drivers).
 
mikey_d05 said:
Every three to six months, take a rubber mallet, pound up and down the side, and shake the extinguisher.

When I do a massive cleaning out of my truck (about every 2 months) I take them out and hit them on the tires. That's my "inspection". Well, that and checking to see if it's still pressurized.
 
I don't use mine as a DD but every month or two I rotate it. By that I mean if it was mounted standing up I will turn it upside down for a month or if it is on its side I rotate it 180 degrees. This is so it doesn't get packed into one spot. Which I have seen mostly on the ones that never get serviced.
 
dyeager535 said:
So for vehicle fires, can you post some tips, etc?
I second that motion.

Most vehicle fires are probably either class B or C fires, or at least they start that way. I know from the Navy that class B fires can be hard to put out, especially with a CO2 extinguisher. I suppose one good way to fight a class C fire would be to have a battery disconnect switch. That way you could kill all electrical power, first step in fighting a class C fire.

So, I would like to hear some tips on fighting a class B fire. I know it can be made worse by blowing the flammable liquid all over the place.

And to answer the original post, mine is also next to the transfer case lever. That is where the military had the mounting bracket already installed.
 
Any of our "experts" (quotes not meant as insults!) have any problems with this article?

No reason to reinvent the wheel if you don't have to!

It sounds like for wiring issues, the ONLY place you would have trouble where a short could cause a fire is the battery, battery cable, or poorly installed wiring. I want to make sure I've got that straight...electrical fire hazard comes from shorts to ground, if the circuit is fused (or fusible linked) like all the factory circuits, thats virtually an impossibility, correct?
 
I have mine mounted on my roll bar right behind my seat. It's out of the way enough that it won't get trampled on, but close enough that I can grab it in about 3 seconds. I will be mounting another one under the hood too.
 
OK, here we go. LOL!

I'll try to cover things as they came up.

First thing to do is turn off the ignition. The second thing to do is call the fire department.

Yeah, yeah I know what else would a fireman say. But really if you care about your truck or garage or house or any exposures close to your truck, call us. If you wait until you've decided you can't beat it yourself, it will probably be to late for us to save it too! Call us, and afterwards if you think you can do so SAFELY, try and put it out yourself. We will NEVER mind being called out on a call. That said, try not to need us during dinner hours or playoffs. (kidding)

If it is a modern vehicle the dangers increase multifold. Car fires are without question some of the most dangerous. Gas charged bumpers, and hatch and hood (yes they exist) struts can and have killed. If it is post collision, air bags that haven't already gone off may, and again can and have killed. Even the burning plastics are very dangerous. If for any reason you find yourself in the position of approaching or fighting a car fire especially a modern vehicle approach from the side or at an angle, not from directly in front or behind the vehicle.

The best extinguisher to use, as mentioned is an ABC. Generally the bigger the better. Our trucks have plenty of room and safety is no area to get cheap on so why not go big? That said like anything in the truck strap it down.

An ABC extinguisher is a dry chemical powder extinguisher that is useful for class A (wood, paper etc.) B (flammable liquids ie. fuel) and C (electrical) fires. And as mentioned make sure it is charged correctly the arrow will be in the green area of the guage, and periodically bang the sides to prevent the powder from caking.

CO2 is not an effective agent to fight most car fires. CO2 extinguishes fires by displacing the oxygen. So if the fire was caused by burning fuel, the CO2 will indeed put out the fire. However shortly thereafter the heat of the engine will reignite the fuel still present. Also painful and dangerous frost bite can occur if, in the excitement you forget to wear gloves.

Electrical fires are really not significant with car fires. The voltage is only significant while the car is running and then not as troubling as the fire itself. Once the ignition is off the fire is now just a class A fire.

Class B fires (flammable liquid fires) in the case of car fires are generally not approached differently than any other source. The fuel volume is generally low as it is coming from a fuel line. And once the ignition has been turned off, using an ABC extinguisher is the best way to go.

To expound on this a little more though :confused: if you are faced with a puddle of fuel on fire this needs to be handled carefully. Stay uphill and upwind of the fire. Stop the source of the fuel spill if possible. If it is a large volume of liquid the best thing to do is prevent the flow of liquid. Circle the fire with sand, kitty litter, etc. Pointing a compressed air extinguisher at the fire can push or worse splatter the flaming liquid all over spreading the fire, so extreme caution must be exercised. The better bet would be to shovel sand or kitty litter on to the fire or better yet, stand back and wait for it to burn out.

Ok well I think that covers everything. I can't stress this enough though. Fire is WICKED dangerous. It spreads far quicker than you expect and consumes everything. Nothing is more devastating than the loss of home, memories or god forbid worse. Call the fire department!
 
my wagoneer started leaking fuel at the carb, backfired though the carb and in seconds fire was coming out of the grill. I had a fire extinguisher sitting on the seat next to me . I could not open the hood to spray it , and the iner wheel wells would not let me get even a half ass shot at it. If I could have opened the hood the fire would not have been that hard to put out ,I had a good fire extinguisher, but by the time the fire dept. showed up it was even hard for them to put out, the truck was a total loss. What I learned... a simple prybar duct taped to the extinguisher would have made a HUGE differance
 
Yea what fireplug said. I was a fire fighter for ten years and went on a few car fires.

On engine fires don't just open the hood. Have the extinguisher ready to go. Release it to the safty latch and hit it once with a good blast from the extinguisher to knock it down. Then open the hood and hit it again and hopefully that put it out because you will almost have used up most of your extinguisher. If you think it's electrical remover you battery cable or cut it this should at least get it out or knock it down so the fire department to show up or other help.

Flammable liquid fires about the same. They can be harder to find the source. ie:fuel leak, transmission, transmission lines, Oil lines. Same as above about opening hood. But could be under you rig also. Harder to fight. Hit it with your extinguisher to try knock it down and hopefully cool down the heat source that ignited the liquid. Remember other sources to put the fire out. ie: dirt, side of road gravel.

Remeber what fireplug said and be careful. Life safety first!
 
yah, I tried the spray it at the hood latch trick ,and the sucker was hot. There was not time to get anything that was not already in my hand
 
On the powder caking issue, it would appear that one good romp down a trail is enough to significantly cake the powder. This powder is so fine that it cakes EXTREMELY easily. Mine is mounted right in front of the driver's seat, laying on it's side. I'm in the process of training myself to rotate the extinguisher 180 every time I drive the truck (not a DD).

I bought a Marine application extinguisher thinking it would be a better match for the types of fires a truck would have. It does have the plastic valve though, so I'm now looking for a better one, thanks for that tip.
 
Done

No pics, but I ended up mounting it to the roll bar low behind the driver's seat. ACE Hardware had some nice 2.5" stainless hose clamps to secure the mounting bracket to the down tube. The bracket indexes the valve body housing and has a secondary strap so it's secure.
 
mine is in a good but bad spot...

good because it is out of the way....(mounted on rollbar)
bad as in anyone can grab it or pull the pin and squirt it :crazy:
 
I put mine behind the console strapped to the floor with a couple of bunjie cords.
17869Interior_025.jpg
 

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