CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

First Attempt 71 rebuild: running again!

Spent the entire day cleaning off grease and grime in the engine bay, sand blasting the frame clean and painting it. Got the new engine wiring harness out of the box and comparing things look a little bit different. I have the HEI distributor wiring set up now, but there still seems to be a few more wires than I thought.... I'll probably have a better idea when the engine goes in though. Engine bay looks a lot nicer now though I must say.

IMG_20130408_173420_981.jpg

IMG_20130408_165348_567.jpg
 
Last edited:
New steering box is in, gotta make sure there won't be any fluids leaking on this new shiny engine!

IMG_20130409_122836_521.jpg
 
ENGINE IS IN!!! :woot: I still have to make up a bracket though I guess for the np205 transfer case as it has a totally different style mount than the dana 20 that was in there. Its being suspended from the ceiling currently, but the motor mounts are hooked up, so I am almost there. Took the top off for the first time as well! Extremely stoked as to how clean the windshield frame is, especially for a north east truck.

IMG_20130411_130625_254.jpg

IMG_20130411_145343_814.jpg

IMG_20130411_145456_700.jpg

IMG_20130411_145730_105.jpg

IMG_20130411_145838_238.jpg
 
its in!

Well the transfer case has proved to be a major pain in the ass :doah:. I've got it mocked up and measured so I can fabricate a new mount for the cross member as well as for the torque mount bracket. I wish I had payed more attention and noticed this was going to be an issue from the get go. Anyhow, I got the rest of the motor all hooked up and in up front, so here's some eye candy for you to look at.

IMG_20130413_131236_555.jpg

IMG_20130413_131326_063.jpg

IMG_20130413_131252_501.jpg
 
my blazer came stock with a 205. couldn't you just get one from a junkyard instead of having to fab your own?
 
my blazer came stock with a 205. couldn't you just get one from a junkyard instead of having to fab your own?

I could if i had some decent junk yards in my area, but we don't have many with anything that isn't rusted beyond belief. North east salt. I might have one in my recent aquisition of parts. I'm keeping them in maine and i might make a trip to check next week, but just in case ive measured up so ill be ready to fab. It's an 86 drivetrain though, and the 205 adapters changed at somepoint in the early 80s to a higher mounting point, so I think I'll have to get creative. I should have a side "torque" mount for it though in my new warehouse of parts.
 
Last edited:
sounds like you got it covered. Just didn't want to see you fab something if you didn't have to. :)
 
Thanks for the thoughts! Lol, believe it or not I found the part at Autozone yesterday... stumbled across it online by pure mistake, after looking up details forever. couldn't believe that I found it there for 15 bucks too! I feel like an idiot lol.
 
lol, you wouldn't be the first... or the last. :) glad you found a cheep solution.
 
Got the crossmember I needed in, and started putting in the new suspension. That was the worst headache I've had yet on this build, not one bolt would come out without cutting it, and those leaf eyes were a major pain to cut out. Anyhow I got the rear suspension all in but ran into a bit of a problem when hooking up the drive shaft. The U-joints for the new transfer case are slightly larger than the old ones, I guess since its a 1986 xfer case. Any thoughts on how to get around this problem?

IMG_20130418_174606_267.jpg

IMG_20130418_174552_189.jpg

IMG_20130419_184853_567.jpg

IMG_20130419_184932_721.jpg

IMG_20130419_190239_924.jpg
 
on the u-joints for the T-case you either need to change the u-joints on the driveshaft to match or change the yoke on the t-case. Figure out the spline count on the T-case and what size u-joint it uses.

I assume the old ones were 1310 and the new ones probably 1350. I bet someone here can quickly type what the u-joint cap size is for each.

You also need to know if they are straps to hold the u-joint in or u-bolt style.
 
on the u-joints for the T-case you either need to change the u-joints on the driveshaft to match or change the yoke on the t-case. Figure out the spline count on the T-case and what size u-joint it uses.

I assume the old ones were 1310 and the new ones probably 1350. I bet someone here can quickly type what the u-joint cap size is for each.

You also need to know if they are straps to hold the u-joint in or u-bolt style.

Thanks. For the time being I picked up some Ubolts technically for a Ford that were large enough for the yoke just so I could keep the drive shaft off the ground when rolling it around. How hard is it to swap out a yoke, or would it be easier to go the drive shaft route?
 
swapping the yoke is just take off the nut and then you may need a puller to take it off depending on how bad it's wedged on there. When you switch yokes you may also need a new and different size oil seal.
 
I do believe there are company's out there that make U joints with two different size caps on them. You can find them on Ebay also, 1310 to 1350 conversion u joint.
 
sounds like that would get you on the road, but I don't think I'd want a specialty u-joint like that out in the sticks. Sure would suck to blow one...
 
sounds like that would get you on the road, but I don't think I'd want a specialty u-joint like that out in the sticks. Sure would suck to blow one...

Yeah, defiantly would suck.Probably should buy more than one if he were to go that direction. I would change the yoke out on the transfer case personally.
 
Thanks for the tips guys. I'm gonna take a look at the spare xfer cases I have when I get back to Maine and see if I can swap a yoke, if not I'll buy a few of those 1310 to 1350 u joints to be safe. Found em for 20-30 bucks on summit so not too bad.
 
Top Bottom