Something isn’t right, a return spring is just a bandaid. The fitech return spring is really stiff as is....
CK5
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First Gen, all hardware no software
- Thread starter SpeedlabDan
- Start date
So I bought this '70 K5 and fell in the rabbit hole ever since. It was tired, a victim of someone's "perfume on a pig" restoration. Original 350/350.Paint is nice.
I even ran under header plug wires to relieve some clutter in that area I'll have to dig in
ekajkrats
1/2 ton status
I agree with @skunked about the stiff spring. I also first used a cheap part store accelerator cable (Mr gasket/Spectre) and that thing bound like no other.
When I put the current universal Lokar cable I am now using, there is virtually no binding on release. The angle I get going through the existing holes in the firewall, just isn't great.
So if you haven't upgraded the cable you may want to look into that as well.
When I put the current universal Lokar cable I am now using, there is virtually no binding on release. The angle I get going through the existing holes in the firewall, just isn't great.
So if you haven't upgraded the cable you may want to look into that as well.
I use a Lokar too, good quality stuff. For the life of me I can’t remeber upgrading anything to my buddies first gen when we did his though.
ekajkrats
1/2 ton status
My original had broken at some point and I had swapped it out for the cheap one before the fitech unit. I also added a 1" riser as well, so those made the angles a bit off.
So this is the area of saturation. Before I wiped it down. Towards the outside of the oil filter and dropping from the plug wires a little. Back of the head is dry but the dip tube is a little wet. These block plugs were wet so easy enough to reseal them. The dip stick rubber top was crumbling so I put this silicone cap over it to see if it helps for now.
Tracing the pool upward the trans seems to be leaking only from this dip stick. Not sure what I'm going to do about this yet
Pulled the detent as tight as I could at wot. It may not have been pulling the valve completely so well see how this goes. Also can't use the lokar throttle cable unless I let the forward end float and it won't be adjustable other than pulling and reset the barrel set screw
Damnit! Found the oil leak! Factory sender hard oil line leaks under vibration. One more guage in the dash that doesn't work now... Guess I'll be selling a tach dash soon.
Was tuning the fitech, and playing with the afr's and iac steps it's getting better. They really are extremely tunable
Was tuning the fitech, and playing with the afr's and iac steps it's getting better. They really are extremely tunable
Why sell the dash due to a line leaking?
You can replace the line. If you need to, you can change the adapters on both ends. I put a copper one in a car years ago, it would transmit some pump buzz at times, unlike the steel one.
You can replace the line. If you need to, you can change the adapters on both ends. I put a copper one in a car years ago, it would transmit some pump buzz at times, unlike the steel one.
At this point none of the guage work. Speed is off 25mph, fuel is all over the place, a meter is a fire hazard, tach can't b used with Fitech bc of noise, now no oil (I have a vdo in a pod) the temp kinda works I guess but I watch the fitech handheld for most of it so...
it worked fine and I couldn't tell it was leaking until under load driving and it would run down was really tough to track down. I may run another line eventually
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
All those gauges can be replaced with modern electric ones with a tiny bit of fab. No need to sell the dash.
I have considered but given the value of an original tach dash in working order it could pay for my guage n I could get another bezel. I dunno it's not really top priority since I have most of the info I need other than the accurate speed
The speedometer is generally off by a percentage. A gearbox with the proper ratio should fix it. You just need to find what percentage that you need to correct it. There could be a medium of correction due to the speedo head being as old as it is.
The a meter is in no way a fire hazard, since it is fused, and is reading a difference on the charge wire. The actual charge current DOES NOT go into the cab.
There are 2 little fuse holders in the corners by the fender to radiator support braces. Those handle the current to the ammeter. They are 2 amps each. Just 2 amps. Blow just one, and the gauge quits.
I know all of this because @500$k5 helped me recalibrate the one in my '72 to read 100 amps , full scale, instead of 60. After we did that, it wouldn't move much under normal conditions.
I found a voltmeter conversion before the guy quit making them, so now it is different anyway.
The water temp is usually easy. I have never replaced a gauge, just a sender and fixed wiring. Fuel gauge is the same in my opinion. Check the wiring , and the sender.
By the way, the factory oil pressure gauge is 60 lbs full scale, unless you find the one for the C50 and C60 trucks , which was 80 lbs.
The a meter is in no way a fire hazard, since it is fused, and is reading a difference on the charge wire. The actual charge current DOES NOT go into the cab.
There are 2 little fuse holders in the corners by the fender to radiator support braces. Those handle the current to the ammeter. They are 2 amps each. Just 2 amps. Blow just one, and the gauge quits.
I know all of this because @500$k5 helped me recalibrate the one in my '72 to read 100 amps , full scale, instead of 60. After we did that, it wouldn't move much under normal conditions.
I found a voltmeter conversion before the guy quit making them, so now it is different anyway.
The water temp is usually easy. I have never replaced a gauge, just a sender and fixed wiring. Fuel gauge is the same in my opinion. Check the wiring , and the sender.
By the way, the factory oil pressure gauge is 60 lbs full scale, unless you find the one for the C50 and C60 trucks , which was 80 lbs.
Yea that's why I had to run a separate oil bc it would bury at idle lol, I think all the a meter stuff is long gone and my buddy at American Autowire told me not to bother with it. Water temp is OK. Nothing I can do for the tach. As for the fuel I have a new sender in the aluminum tank and it seemed to be fine untill the last couple rides out now it bounces all over. I'll have to trace it n make sure it's ok
