CK5
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Flaring tool for brake lines...

If it's just this one line you can also bring the line down to most any brake shop and they can flare it for you pretty cheap. My $15 flare tool worked for about 3 flares and just makes crap now.
 
If it's just this one line you can also bring the line down to most any brake shop and they can flare it for you pretty cheap. My $15 flare tool worked for about 3 flares and just makes crap now.

I called around after my trying my crappy $20 tool, and none of the brake shops in town would do it. I guess they are worried about liability if my Blazer runs off the road and crashes into a nunnery. I supose if you know a guy that works at a brake shop it would help.
 
I guess they are worried about liability if my Blazer runs off the road and crashes into a nunnery.

Since the line is so cheap, you can probably add $5 and they will make a whole new one for you. I just took mine to the nearest shop and got a whole new one an hour later.
 
They wouldn't do that either. :dunno:

But that might have something to do with me describing the application to them: 14BFF discs.

I prolly should have only provided a length. :D
 
I just got my mastercool from my Mac guy for 275 a couple months ago.. actually, I'm getting to that project pretty soon, test it out on some stainless.....
 
So how does this mastercool tool work? I'm guessing the handle piece is the hydraulic pump and you just squeeze a handle a few times?
 
So how does this mastercool tool work? I'm guessing the handle piece is the hydraulic pump and you just squeeze a handle a few times?

bingo. clamp flush with end of die. insert flare die and close valve pump up but not super hard just even hand pressure and release valve and if dubble flare 2nd flare die and all done.

used mine to day again on 3/8 and 5/16 fuel line push conects.

and you can buy bulk rools 25ft long of line to make 1 peice full length lines if you want.
 
the clamps go in the square part and get tightened in and the die goes in the top part and you twist the cylinder/handle till the die is up against the tube and make sure the valve is closed and then with a few pumps of the handle you have a flare. then just open the valve and screw the cylinder/ handle the opposite way to loosen it up.
 
I just got my mastercool from my Mac guy for 275 a couple months ago.. actually, I'm getting to that project pretty soon, test it out on some stainless.....

thay say stainless is 35-37* max not 45* but i know a guy who does them no problem with his. ( unless my info is wrong on this )

i my self wouldnt want to try it my self.
 
thay say stainless is 35-37* max not 45* but i know a guy who does them no problem with his. ( unless my info is wrong on this )

i my self wouldnt want to try it my self.

interesting... dually noted...
 
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