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Flat belly(clocked t-case) worth it?

steve_kibbe

steve_kibbe

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The 700r4 in my K5 went out and I have a replacement to put in.
Currently it has a np208 in the stock postion.
When I swap out transmissions I am going to put in the rebuilt np241
I have and was planning on clocking it either up 1 or 2 "notches."

I have the np241 and the clocking ring waiting to be put in but...

Is it worth the extra effort/money to clock it up out of the way?
I'll have to get a new front driveshaft and make a new crossmember...
 
I say it is.

A 20" to 24" belly clearance seems to work well with break over etc. If you can clock the t case and get that clearance with less suspension lift then you have less weight up heigh to tip you over.

It is one of the ways to get a lower CG.
 
Its worth it. Have you thought about a SYE while the case is sitting there?
The front driveline is fun with a clocked flat 241.... You will need to cut a hole in the floor and re-mount the passenger seat. You will want to look at my driveline...
You will have to raise the drivetrain about 3 inches to be completely flat.
 
Chaddy said:
Its worth it. Have you thought about a SYE while the case is sitting there?
The front driveline is fun with a clocked flat 241.... You will need to cut a hole in the floor and re-mount the passenger seat. You will want to look at my driveline...
You will have to raise the drivetrain about 3 inches to be completely flat.
Click to expand...
Do you have any pics of your set up? I am thinking about rotating mine up. I already have the SYE and can make a square tube front shaft but will the CV still work or will it bind? I am only running 3" front springs but considering doing a 52" front spring swap in the future.
Sorry about the thread hyjack.;)
 
wayne said:
Do you have any pics of your set up? I am thinking about rotating mine up. I already have the SYE and can make a square tube front shaft but will the CV still work or will it bind? I am only running 3" front springs but considering doing a 52" front spring swap in the future.
Sorry about the thread hyjack.;)
Click to expand...
The cv wont work. I have 4inch springs and this is what I had to do.

100_0635 629X474.jpg

100_0636.JPG

100_0647 700X527.jpg

100_0912 700X527.jpg

100_1422 700X527.jpg
 
Do you have any more pics showing the front shaft set up better up toward the t case? Do you have more details on your set up? Thanks for the infor so far.
 
steve_kibbe said:
When you said you had to raise the drivetrain up 3", are you just talking about the tranny/t-case mount?
Click to expand...
Yes, to clear the frame rails for a pan.


Do you have any more pics showing the front shaft set up better up toward the t case? Do you have more details on your set up? Thanks for the infor so far.
Click to expand...
I will try to find the full size pics.

What details are you after?


Wheels/Tires: 37 inchMAXXIS Creepy crawlers Drivetrain/Suspension: 350tbi,700r4,clocked np241 with a SYE 1350 yoke's, 2 piece front drive shaft, skyjacker springs, ORD cross over steering,ORD frame brace's, PRP limiting straps, 60/14/Detroits, ruffstuff diff covers, ORD disc brakes
 
chaddy, for what reason did you add the pillow block? was it to only get over the transmission x-member?
 
Chaddy said:
Yes, to clear the frame rails for a pan.


I will try to find the full size pics.

What details are you after?


Wheels/Tires: 37 inchMAXXIS Creepy crawlers Drivetrain/Suspension: 350tbi,700r4,clocked np241 with a SYE 1350 yoke's, 2 piece front drive shaft, skyjacker springs, ORD cross over steering,ORD frame brace's, PRP limiting straps, 60/14/Detroits, ruffstuff diff covers, ORD disc brakes
Click to expand...

Part numbers for what you used would help.
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by steve_kibbe
When you said you had to raise the drivetrain up 3", are you just talking about the tranny/t-case mount?

Yes, to clear the frame rails for a pan.
Click to expand...

Chaddy what effect if any does this have on the motor mounts and fan/shroud relationship? I assume you raised it simply with the custom x-member.
 
I was able to get mine to work by using 2 Tom Woods Super Joints. I got rid of the cv in the front shaft and got one of these u-joints at each end.
However I did not go completely flat to the bottom of the frame rails, but 1.5" lower as that was the size of the square stock I used to make the x-members and skid plate.
Clocking allows a much better break over angle with out having to add extra lift. A huge skid plate solidly mounted is a great way to get more poor mans break over as well. Have not looked back from this mod, but there are several issues to consider.
 
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