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Flat towing a Burb

cabledawg

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I did do a search, but didnt find my answer. What kind of tow bar do you guys use for sucha heavy POS? I can find 5k lbs bars all over the place, but the truck itself weighs more than that and I'll have about another 500-800 lbs of junk inside when I move. Do you think a 5k would survive if I just upgrade to grade 8 hardware? Neither Uhaul or Budget have trailers/dollies that can handle the weight and I dont want to spend $800-1000 on a tow bar rated for the load.:(
 
One of the local drilling crews flat tows a F450 4x4 behind their drilling rig with a pretty beefy lookin but simple tow bar made of square stock. Maybe yank the front bumper for frame mounts and hit up a weld shop to see whatr they might charge,cant imagine it being $800+. Other than that a lowboy or EQ trailer as mentioned.
 
Yeah I was thinking of having something fabbed locally. Probably the best and safest way to go. The problem with the equipment trailer is that my wife's Burb will be towing this, and although I know it can pull 8k lbs, I dont think it will handle all the tongue weight from an equipment trailer+Burb.

Right now I'll be convoying with a C1500 regcab p/u on a trailer behind the 24' Budget truck and wanting to flat tow the R2500 Burb behind the R10 Burb. The original plan was to put the 2500 Burb on a dolly or flat tow behind the Budget truck and dolly the p/u behind the R10 Burb. Budget wont let me put the p/u on a dolly, so I'm stuck using a trailer.

It sucks having more trucks than drivers. Good thing I'm dumping off one the three Burbs I own. I can just hear it now.............


[on the cb]
Ah, breaker one-nine, this heres the rubber duck. you gotta copy on me, pig pen, cmon?

ah, yeah, 10-4, pig pen, fer shure, fer shure. by golly, its clean clear to flag town, cmon.
yeah, that Big 10-4 there, pig pen, yeah, we definitely got the front door, good buddy. mercy sakes alive, looks like we got us a convoy...

Was the dark of the moon on the sixth of june
In a kenworth pullin logs
Cab-over pete with a reefer on back
And a jimmy haulin hogs
We is headin for bear on i-one-oh
bout a mile outta shaky town
I says, pig pen, this heres the rubber duck.
And Im about to put the hammer down.

[chorus]
cause we got a little convoy
Rockin through the night.
Yeah, we got a little convoy,
Aint she a beautiful sight?
Come on and join our convoy
Aint nothin gonna get in our way.
We gonna roll this truckin convoy
cross the u-s-a.
Convoy!


:D:D:D
 
towing the 3/4 ton with the 1/2 ton sounds like a bad idea. Does that 3/4 not run?

Getting a tow bar made would be the way to go, but how do you plan to run brakes? That is going to be your main issue. Really, for the cost and hassle, pay someone to drive or transport the extra burb.
 
I have flat-towed a Burb 2000 miles on a 5k-pound towbar successfully. It pulled just fine, and was no trouble at all...

You must be willing to assume some risks when doing this and make some sound judgements on your own - just because I did it doesn't mean it's right for you. You must also consider that you'll be driving in front of, behind, and alongside others whose lives you can affect - this interaction can be reduced with planning and driving practices. Assess your towrig's capability, structure, and brakes very carefully. I would not add additional load to it as you mentioned.

My particular towbar was brand new (had no wear/fatigue). Towbars are rated by class and 5k is the upper limit on the light use class. I analyzed my particular bar and determined its actual approximate mechanical limits prior to use. I also did the math on what sort of loads I would be applying to it in various situations and applied an appropriate factor of safety.

Also keep in mind that unless you have a working braking system in the towed Burb, you may be breaking the law in certain places. Most cops won't know or care - it's when you get in an accident and lawsuits start flying that it counts.
 
it's when you get in an accident and lawsuits start flying that it counts.

This to me sounds like enough reason not to use a 5k tow bar. But as longbedder said, you gotta make that call on your own.

Quality post right there ^
 
That's why I was thinking of upgrading the mounting hardware, but I'll just find someone to fab up a custom mount and tow bar. I'm hoping the Burb will be drivable by then, but I'm planning to use it as a "trailer" for all my garage junk I dont want in the moving truck.

We towed the travel trailer for over 1200 miles without brakes after the tires were blowing up from what I thought was a bad brake controller that was dragging the brakes. Later found out the tires just weren't up to driving that far. It's scary towing that much weight with no trailer brakes, but paying attention to traffic and allowing alot of braking distance helps keep the pucker factor down. Since I'll be running point in the moving truck, I'll be able to scope out traffic and keep the convoy at a safe speed.;)

Thanks for the input guys. I still have a few months, maybe I'll just get a buddy to drive the p/u and flat tow the Burb behind the moving truck.
 
Get with MNSTRBURB as he always flat tows his burb with a homebrew tow bar. Said it works out very well.
 
I built mine out of 2' square tube and use a 2 5/16 ball not a 2' ball as standard trailers are. It uses 3/4 bolts to hold it to the truck, i had tabs welded to a piece of square tube in the frame rails but removed it when i installed the a bomb. Know i just bolt it to the a bomb with 1' to 3/4' reducers. I also use big safety chains there is pics i posted a while back ill try to find them
I also tow it with a 98 extra cab 3/4 ton long bed Chevy 350, i have had no issues but plan ahead on stopping and such. It also gets almost the same mileage towing as it does unloaded.
 
That'd be good if you found your pics.

I made up a drawing in paint, but in case it seems confusing I'll explain.

Two brackets with tabs extended beyond the front bumper. Thick enough that they could be used as shackle mounts for the trail. The brackets will be tied together with flat or angle iron and strong enough that I could mount a winch later on down the road.

Edit: I just thought of something; do you think that the UD1 bumper DIY4X sells would be strong enough to be used as a tow bar attachment point? If so I could buy that and have the tow bar made to fit the bumper! Just sayin.............

The tow bar will attach to the tabs with hitch pins so taking the bar on/off is simple and fast. The tow bar will use a typical a-frame design and extend out about 5' from the front of the truck. The coupler will be bolted on so if I ever wanted to use a pintle all I'd have to do is swap the coupler.

I already have a solution for the lights. Folks that RV alot use these nifty little jobs that tie into the vehicles rear lights. A flat four wiring harness is permanently ran to the front and when the brakes lights come on, so do the towed vehicles' lights. The diodes prevent the current from backfeeding to the rest of the twoed vehicles electrical system and vice versa.

The brakes will be a bit harder. I'll have one of the kids ride inthe Burb and hit the brakes whenever I do.....................I'm KIDDING! No seriously I dont know what I'll do for brakes. Just take it slow and easy I 'spose.
 
i have mine set up single sheer now on the a bomb.
before it was tabbed as you have it drawn. I used the builder 1 3/4 bushings for the attachment point on the rig.
Ill get some new pics up of it installed also i cant find the old ones.
 
If you absolutely have to flat tow it do it well and be smart. I would highly advise that you rent, borrow, beg, or steal a trailer though.

I flat towed my K5 blazer fully decked out with top, doors, cage, 37's, 3/4 ton axles, with 800lbs of stuff inside it 1000 miles from AZ to CO. I built a towbar out of 1.5"x.250 wall square tube and used a 2" trailer hitch. I attached it to my HD bumper I had built. It attached to the D-ring mounts for recovery shackles with 1" bolts that I drilled for cotter pins so the nuts could not come off. I also used a set of brake lights on the back so people had some idea I was stopping. This trip was made with a 2005 F250 as the tow vehicle and it did pretty well except if you had to panic stop. I almost at **** in some traffic in Colo Springs, CO.

I towed like this 2 other times behind my 98 Dodge Cummins extended cab longbed. All was fine behind this truck except when i was trying to stop kinda fast on wet pavement, and I slid right through a light that had just went from yellow to red. This trip the K5 was unloaded with no doors, top, etc. (wheeling trim).

Can it be done, yes. Is it the best idea, NO!

If you are planning on towing this behind a 1/2 ton you are in for even more fun as your brakes won't be as good as either of the trucks I towed with and your load will be heavier.

Also note that technically in many states it is illegal to flat tow anything over 3500lbs without having functional brakes on the towed trailer/vehicle.

One last note for you if you decide to build a towbar and do this. Put the bar at a slight downward angle to the vehicle that will be towing it. That way during braking and cornering the bar will apply downward pressure and transfer some weight to the rear axle of the towrig especially if your towrig is a pickup truck. If you are towing with a pickup put some weight in the bed.

A friend of mine flat towed his K5 behind a single cab 84 K20. The first attempt at flat towing almost jack knifed his truck in the first corner because the towbar angle was flat and the bed of his truck was empty. After putting a downward angle on the towbar and adding weight to the ass end of his truck he was able to make it work ok but he soon bought a trailer since on the return trip from wheeling his K5 he had to make a panic stop and couldn't so he ended up in the dirt on the side of a major highway trying to avoid hitting the person in front of him and also trying to avoid jackknifing his truck in the dirt while trying to slow his truck down. His K5 weight about 5500lbs.

Harley
 
There is a braking deal someone had posted in mnstrburbon's thread that will work great for this purpose. Uses a surge brake setup, but attaches to the towed vehicles brakes. Only $400 and its fully adjustable to fit the vehicle and the tow bar.

So now I decide if I want to just get a bar/bracket made or order a front bumper from DIY4X and have a tow bar made to fit the shackle mounts. I still have time, but not alot of money:(
 
Did someone mention towing a K2500 suburban with a K1500 suburban on a trailer?

100_3423.jpg


My dad towed my suburban home about 100 miles with his 99 suburban. It's a 99 350 suburban with 3:42's in the rear, with trailering brakes and over 120k on it. It pulled great with no issues. You just have to make sure you get the weight distributed correctly and you should be ok.
 
Pictures are loading so ill post them when done.
I tried the trailer and it was just a headache i still had to switch tires and the weight was just all wrong. I had to back the sub on and then i could not turn sharp because it would jack knife into the truck because the tail hung over so far. I also used a weight distribution hitch which heped but it was just HEAVY feeling towing it. I swapped out to a blazer full trim BB and 38's and it towed a ton better than the sub did.This storage, and registration is what lead me to flat towing and i have never looked back. I can now pull it faster and alot more efficiently.
I would recommend the brake controller for the towed vehicle i have not yet but it would be a nice investment. I blew the motor a couple of years ago called the wife she loaded the tow bar and lights and chains and came and met me at the trail head super easy. If it where a trailer it would not of happened trailers are awesome but the room and hassle for me was just to great.I also recently towed the 4 door k30 home no motor on a trailer with no weight distribution and it was fine the subs just seem to have alot of weight in the rear.
 
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Here is the pics.
tow bar leaning on rig.
P1000284.jpg


P1000285.jpg


P1000286.jpg


P1000287.jpg


P1000290.jpg


upside down so you can see the underside.
P1000289.jpg


bolt and spacer or reducer.
P1000291.jpg


without reducer
P1000294.jpg


P1000295.jpg


reducer installed

P1000293.jpg


reducer ands bolt

P1000297.jpg

 

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