cabledawg
Secret Squirrel
You ever had any issues with the bushings putting weird stress on the bolts?
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Flat towing a Burb
- Thread starter cabledawg
- Start date
The original set up used a 9/16 bolt and sleave in the bushing just like youre springs. It was a 1 3/4 builder bushing from diy or whom ever.
When i got the abomb i lucked out and the tow bar dementions worked out so i could use the shackle mounts. I then decided to remove the sleave from the bushing and went to the 3/4 bolt and steel reducer for the bumper and the 3/4 bolt fits nice and snug in the poly bushing.
NO i have not had any wear or binding of the bushing or bolt, having the bushing gives it a flex point and cushings the start and stop a tiny bit.
When i got the abomb i lucked out and the tow bar dementions worked out so i could use the shackle mounts. I then decided to remove the sleave from the bushing and went to the 3/4 bolt and steel reducer for the bumper and the 3/4 bolt fits nice and snug in the poly bushing.
NO i have not had any wear or binding of the bushing or bolt, having the bushing gives it a flex point and cushings the start and stop a tiny bit.
my old set up i had the bumper cut out around it so only the tabs stuck out.
cabledawg
Secret Squirrel
Gettin mine made up next week. DOnt have a price yet, but I'm sure it'll be cheaper than buying an aftermarket tow bar.
THe side plates will have 3/4 inch flat steel bolted to the outside of the frame. We're going to reinforce the inside with some addt'l flat steel. Between the plates will be a 8" c-channel section and I'm going to try to get a 2" reciever welded underneath. The tabs will be part of the side plate like mnstrburbon's, but only two 7/8" holes, one on each side.
The tow bar will be 4x2 square tube in a traditional a-frame design. Single tabs on each side (single shear setup) and a standard 2 5/16" coupler. The hitch pins are just 7/8" tractor pins which are the red handle variety. I have found shackles that use a 7/8" pin that are rated for 10k lbs each, but I'll have an additional 1/2" play side to side; shouldnt be a big deal.
I'll be getting my winch once I get to North Dakota. Should fit nicely in the 8" channel. KIlling alot of birds with one stone. Now all I need to do is buy my own welder and start doing this stuff myself.
THe side plates will have 3/4 inch flat steel bolted to the outside of the frame. We're going to reinforce the inside with some addt'l flat steel. Between the plates will be a 8" c-channel section and I'm going to try to get a 2" reciever welded underneath. The tabs will be part of the side plate like mnstrburbon's, but only two 7/8" holes, one on each side.
The tow bar will be 4x2 square tube in a traditional a-frame design. Single tabs on each side (single shear setup) and a standard 2 5/16" coupler. The hitch pins are just 7/8" tractor pins which are the red handle variety. I have found shackles that use a 7/8" pin that are rated for 10k lbs each, but I'll have an additional 1/2" play side to side; shouldnt be a big deal.
I'll be getting my winch once I get to North Dakota. Should fit nicely in the 8" channel. KIlling alot of birds with one stone. Now all I need to do is buy my own welder and start doing this stuff myself.
Kartoon
1/2 ton status
im surprised a shop would build somethin like this. Figured they wouldnt want the responibilty of something going wrong and getting blamed.
cabledawg
Secret Squirrel
I told the guy what it was for and he didnt seem too bothered by it. But I think that is why he is making everything thicker than what I had planned. Originally I wanted 1/4-1/2" side plates and a 1/4" front plate, but everything would have had gussets for strength. Using 3/4" side and c-channel for the front kinda makes the tow/winch mount stronger than the original frame. An aftermarket tow bar would just bolt to the frame anyways.
I flat towed my M1008 from Barstow to Alturas with my wife's half ton crewcab GMC. I used a 5k rated tow bar from Uhaul as well. It towed fine and never had any problems. I attached the towbar to the shackle mounts on the front of the truck. Uhaul also sells magnetic tail lights for really cheap. I just put those on the roof of the M1008 and took off. I did get stopped because the M1008 didn't have plates. In Ca if it rolls on the road it needs plates. I didn't get a ticket though.
I replied in another thread but here it is all hooked up for a trip over Halloween and will be the same for turkey day.
cabledawg
Secret Squirrel
mnstrburbon, what do you use for the safety chains? Originally I was looking at a tow bridle with the multi-hooks commonly used for rollbacks to load cars on the bed. But all I ahve been able to find is rated too low to use as a safety device. So I was thinking of using a split link attached to the frame and then the safety chains would have snap hooks on each end. Really similar to what RV'ers use, but mine would be heavier.
These where left over from my repo days and where safety chains or tie down chains for a flat bed tow truck. I wrap it around the cross member and then hook them on the hitch i use electrical tap to hold the hook on the Cain where it doubles back from the cross member.
cabledawg
Secret Squirrel
Ah, the crossmember. Probably why it looks so far back on your truck. Well that makes things alot easier. I just didnt want to use any steering or supsension components. I could wrap it around the frame, right behind the front spring hangers. Cool, I think I can find premade binder chains that would work good in this situation and probably be cheaper than piecing something together.
Ya mine where pre made they have a large clasp hook on one end and the smaller chain size hook on the other so it holds onto the links. I just used the cross member as the chains where long and that shortened them up and also i did not want to have it banging on the powder coat of the a bomb. I was going to weld D rings on the bottom of the cross member or something just have not yet.
I did a quick search this is what i found mine are like the ones with the powder coat ends. But they are not they are all the gold color hooks and chain. I would try and find a local tow truck supply place. Or you can order these on line the price seemed reasonable.
http://www.truckntow.com/c-147051-.aspx
I did a quick search this is what i found mine are like the ones with the powder coat ends. But they are not they are all the gold color hooks and chain. I would try and find a local tow truck supply place. Or you can order these on line the price seemed reasonable.
http://www.truckntow.com/c-147051-.aspx
cabledawg
Secret Squirrel
Going in tomorrow morning to start on the tow bar/winch mount. The guy is going to let me hang out in the shop, so maybe I'll learn something. I have a feeling that this thing is going to be HEAVY, but that just means it'll take a beating
smalltruckbigcid
1/2 ton status
He's in KS. Almost every farmer has done this to their pickup to tow it behind a tractor....
cabledawg
Secret Squirrel
Got it done. One grand to make, but now the front of my frame is reinforced and the bumper is strong enough to ram through buildings with. The tow bar takes two people to lift. The eyelets stick out a little farther than I had hoped, but are made with 1/2" plating that is the same plate attached to the frame. The frame plates go all the way back to the first crossmember. I'll take pics today, but I dont have internet at the house so who knows when I'll be able to upload them.
cabledawg
Secret Squirrel
Here's a couple pics. the first is the bumper and tabs. The second is the plate attached to the frame. The tabs are the same plate as the mount. The c-channel for the bumper had slots cut to fit over the tabs. This way the tow bar is pulling directly on the frame.
cabledawg
Secret Squirrel
Here is the tow bar. Each leg is 4ft long and 4x2 square tube with 1/4" wall. The plates that attach to the truck are 1/2" plate and the coupler is 2 5/16" rated for 10500 lbs. We'll see next week how well it works
Looks like you notched the frame brackets to clear those rivets (duh) but my conclusion is that you bolted the brackets to the frame and then slid the C channel on them then welded the C channel to them so now you'll never get that bumper off without cutting it apart?
cabledawg
Secret Squirrel
Yeah I'll have to cut the welds off the c-channel to get it off the mounts then unbolt the mounts. Originally we weren't going to go that far back on the frame. But I also didnt want that 1/2" plate a permanent part of the truck either. I think if I slope the notch back to the rear bolts, the mount might come off with the c-channel attached and maybe require just a little muscle to get it around the rivets.
If I'd thought about it, I would have brought my B52 mounts and just had all the rivets removed and holes drilled to match the B52 mounting bolts. But I didnt think about it and so we had to do it the way we did on the spur of the moment.
If I'd thought about it, I would have brought my B52 mounts and just had all the rivets removed and holes drilled to match the B52 mounting bolts. But I didnt think about it and so we had to do it the way we did on the spur of the moment.
Super BEEF looks good.
