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flexible transmission lines

funkycold

funkycold

1/2 ton status
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Apr 22, 2002
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Orange County, CA
I am installing a remote transmission filter and need to find some stainless steel flexible hoses to install this on the inside of the fender and then to the cooler. I know I have seen them somewhere, but can not remember where I saw them. I could either use a kit or make some if I could find the right parts.
Any other ideas would be good as well.
Thanks.
 
What kind of fitting is on your cooler?

That really shouldn't be a problem to get. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
I would go to a hydraulic hose shop
try and get reuseable fittings
-6 probably be plenty
 
Most any hydrallic hose maker in your area should be able to hook you up with whatever hoses and fittings you need.
I just purchase a roll of hose and the Aeroquip hose ends and make them up my self. A lot cheaper than the stuff they sell in kits and from places like jegs,earls or summit.
I prefer these over crimped hoses anyway. My trans lines
are all aeroquip from the trans to the cooler to the external filter. A lot easier that hard tube lines. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
 
That is kind of what i was thinking. I have the hose fitting on the cooler and would rather use the reusable fittings if possible. Do I need to get -6an fittings or 1/4 pipe fittings for everything else? What size hose would be best so that I don't lose pressure in the line as well?

I have also hear a few people reccomend not to run the cooler lines through the radiator and some say that it should be run through the radiator first before the cooler, what is your reccomendation and how do yoi have it set up?
 
Number 6 hose,,from trans output to B&M plate type cooler
to the filter back to the trans inlet.The cooler has a thermostat that cycles the fan on at 180 and off at 165.
I do not run thru the radiator. Runs between 180-190 degrees
unless I'm running it hard.All of the fittings are standard pipe and flare brass. I did drill all of the fittings to insure max flow. Also the hose is standard aeroquip single steel braid (internal) and cloth outer. (cheaper than "bling bling" stainless outer braid hose) /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
 
Do not bypass your radiator cooler. It cools your fluid far more than any aux cooler ever will.

-6 is fine.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Do not bypass your radiator cooler. It cools your fluid far more than any aux cooler ever will.

-6 is fine.

[/ QUOTE ]

How do you figure the radiator cooler/aux cooler cools better than a stand alone auxillary cooler? Show me some facts please? My tranny temp gauge tells me different.
 
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
Do not bypass your radiator cooler. It cools your fluid far more than any aux cooler ever will.

-6 is fine.

[/ QUOTE ]

How do you figure the radiator cooler/aux cooler cools better than a stand alone auxillary cooler? Show me some facts please? My tranny temp gauge tells me different.

[/ QUOTE ]

Fact, water absorbs more eat than air.

Fact, water to oil cooler is far more efficient at removing heat from transmission fluid than air to oil.

Fact, it says in the directions to any cooler NOT to bypass your stock cooler.
 
You are correct on all points except that the water to air works better. I say this for two reasons. First, obviously the coolant is quite warm, so it can only keep the trans fluid very near the temp of the coolant, which is OK usually but I dont like the idea of 200+ degree trans fluid going through if I am towing a load. Second, although water has a higher specific heat, there is generally a much better flow of air over an air type cooler than water over a water type cooler, so the total heat taken out of the trans fluid is higher with an air type cooler I would imagine. For example, diesel engines used to use water to air type aftercoolers, but now they use air to air types because you get much more because it is much more efficient and lowers the temp much better. Personally, I would hook them in series with the air type last so it cools past what the radiator does, but the trans fluid warms up quicker due to it flowing through the warm coolant. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
I have never liked the idea of using the radiator cooler. Oil to water cooler, will only get as cool as the temp of your water. Likely around 200. Sure it will stick there but thats it. Auxillary cooler with auxillary air(fan) is my opinion of the way to go. Dad has run auxillary cooler only on his race transmissions and never seen him burn one up yet.
 
I called a local radiator rebuilder and asked his opinion about running the translines through the radiator and he told me not to as it will not effectively cool the trans fluid the way you would want it cooled. He said to just use a bigger air type cooler and that would help even more than running them in series.
 
[ QUOTE ]
I would hook them in series with the air type last so it cools past what the radiator does, but the trans fluid warms up quicker due to it flowing through the warm coolant. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

I would also.

[ QUOTE ]
He said to just use a bigger air type cooler and that would help even more than running them in series.

[/ QUOTE ]

You know that a cooler can work, "too good" right?
 
That is what I wanted to hear. You are suggesting to run it through the radiator and then through the air cooler in front of the radiator support. Right? /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

Now where in line should the remote filter be? Before the radiator or after the air cooler?

Thanks for the info.
 
My blazer run through the stock radiator cooler then through a filter, and then an auxilary air cooler infront of the radiator then back to the tranny. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
My blazer run through the stock radiator cooler then through a filter, and then an auxilary air cooler infront of the radiator then back to the tranny. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

That's how the TH 400 is on my tow rig as well. Radiator, huge stacked plate B&M, then back to tranny.
 
Ok, in reading the instructions sheet for the Hayden cooler that I purchased, it says to run them in series: to the radiator --- to the cooler --- and then back to the transmission.

/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
You are correct on all points except that the water to air works better. I say this for two reasons. First, obviously the coolant is quite warm, so it can only keep the trans fluid very near the temp of the coolant, which is OK usually but I dont like the idea of 200+ degree trans fluid going through if I am towing a load. Second, although water has a higher specific heat, there is generally a much better flow of air over an air type cooler than water over a water type cooler, so the total heat taken out of the trans fluid is higher with an air type cooler I would imagine. For example, diesel engines used to use water to air type aftercoolers, but now they use air to air types because you get much more because it is much more efficient and lowers the temp much better. Personally, I would hook them in series with the air type last so it cools past what the radiator does, but the trans fluid warms up quicker due to it flowing through the warm coolant. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

The colder a transmission is, the better, period.
Your transmission warms up faster than your coolant. Even the instructions to install a cooler say to put it in drive and hold it for 5-10 seconds, and you can feel the hot line being the output line.
Another one bites the dust.... /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
Do not bypass your radiator cooler. It cools your fluid far more than any aux cooler ever will.

-6 is fine.

[/ QUOTE ]

FACT.
That's bull [censored].
Unless you do heavy hill climbing or heavy towing, a tranny with a large Hayden cooler will never get above 160 even on 90* days.
Even in winter a trans will be 195 or higher if it goes through the stock "cooler". On the other hand, aux it wont get above 100 so it probably wont register on your temp gauge.
Why do they say to go through the standard cooler? Because they don't have the STONES to say it shouldn't. They would rather have some liability on OEM equipment. You would be hard-pressed to find a GOOD transmission shop that feels otherwise.

Hope you'll still cut me a deal on the body mounts /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
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