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Flexplate Question; Update and another Question

I prefer TCI. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TCI-399373/

Keep in mind that the teeth get chewed up from either trying to start the engine while it is already running (accidents happen) or from a starter that isn't shimmed properly and is allowed to grind when starting. You also should inspect the bendix gear of the starter VERY CLOSELY as it usually becomes damaged as well and can ruin a new flexplate.
 
I like the TCI because they are .035" thicker than a factory one and the gear also has more welding to help strengthen the flexplate while keeping the gear attached properly.
 
4X4HIGH said:
I prefer TCI. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TCI-399373/

Keep in mind that the teeth get chewed up from either trying to start the engine while it is already running (accidents happen) or from a starter that isn't shimmed properly and is allowed to grind when starting. You also should inspect the bendix gear of the starter VERY CLOSELY as it usually becomes damaged as well and can ruin a new flexplate.
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Thanks guys. Yeah, Scott Id do have some sort of shim issue with the starter. I broke the cone off one last year and it grinded a bit before it blew the cone off. This one grinds a little bit and I monkeyed with the shims a bit and still haven't found the sweet spot.

Are there any write up on changing out the flexplate. I have never done any trans, t-case removal at all. I could probably convince one of the local guys to help out but didn't know if this is something I should attempt the firs time. Please opine. Thanks again fellas.
 
It's not that difficult. If you don't have one already, those small motorcycle lift jacks are handy for holding up a trans and x-case assembly without it falling off onto your head.

1. Remove driveshafts
1a. Unhook trans fluid lines, cables, shift lever, etc.
2. Remove transfer case crossmember (after supporting the drivetrain)
3. Remove transfer case and trans (keeping the motor supported so it doesn't break off your distributor as it tilts down)
4. Spill trans fluid from inside torque converter onto the floor
5. Unbolt flexplate.
6. Reverse assembly.

Also, I think I had two good flexplates around the time you were down here. They are scrap metal now though.
 
I have managed to replace a few chevy flex plates without yanking the tranny completely out,with some help from my brother....

We used a floor jack to support the tranny and transfer case, and unbolted the bellhousing bolts and crossmember mount,and put two 6" long 3/8" bolts in the bellhousing at the 9 and 3 o clock positions and was able to coax the tranny back just far enough with a pry bar to the get at the flywheel bolts, after taking the torque converter bolts out and pushing it towards the tranny,using a box end wrench..it was a chore getting those bolts back in and started ,but once they were started it went together fairly quickly..

It took us about 1-1/2 hours doing it that way,there is usually enough room in the splined slip joint on the driveshaft to do it that way without yanking the driveshaft,and the tranny cooler lines might not have to come off if there is sufficient slack too..We did a flexplate in a '70 Impala 350 in about an hour once using this method..with the guide bolts in the bellhousing its pretty easy to slide the tranny back onto the engine..not saying this is the best or only way to do it,but it worked for us and felt it was easier than pulling the tranny & transfer completely out..
 
diesel4me said:
I have managed to replace a few chevy flex plates without yanking the tranny completely out,with some help from my brother....

We used a floor jack to support the tranny and transfer case, and unbolted the bellhousing bolts and crossmember mount,and put two 6" long 3/8" bolts in the bellhousing at the 9 and 3 o clock positions and was able to coax the tranny back just far enough with a pry bar to the get at the flywheel bolts, after taking the torque converter bolts out and pushing it towards the tranny,using a box end wrench..it was a chore getting those bolts back in and started ,but once they were started it went together fairly quickly..

It took us about 1-1/2 hours doing it that way,there is usually enough room in the splined slip joint on the driveshaft to do it that way without yanking the driveshaft,and the tranny cooler lines might not have to come off if there is sufficient slack too..We did a flexplate in a '70 Impala 350 in about an hour once using this method..with the guide bolts in the bellhousing its pretty easy to slide the tranny back onto the engine..not saying this is the best or only way to do it,but it worked for us and felt it was easier than pulling the tranny & transfer completely out..
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That sounds like a pretty good plan. How many bolts are in the bellhousing? Looks like I am going to just have to dive into it and ask any questions as I go. Thanks guys.:D
 
There are 6 bell housing bolts. Don't forget to unbolt the convertor from the flexplate BEFORE unbolting the bell bolts. Once you unbolt the convertor push it rearward (it will move about 3/8"-1/2" this should keep it from falling off when the trans is moved rearward.
 
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Double check every bolt , and use new flexplate bolts with the right locking washers . I bought my Suburban dirt cheap not driveable due to this happening withing 10,000 miles of tranny replacement :laugh:

IM000317.jpg
 
4X4HIGH said:
There are 6 bell housing bolts. Don't forget to unbolt the confertor from the flexplate BEFORE unbolting the bell bolts. Once you unbolt the convertor push it rearward (it will move about 3/8"-1/2" this should keep it from falling off when the trans is moved rearward.
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Wow! I need to get a good book or better a DVD on engine and drivetrain basics or something. :doah:
 
4X4HIGH said:
Did i miss something. :confused:
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No, Scott. I just happen to re-read all the posts in the thread and realize that I really know very little about the drive train in vehicles/trucks and how they are put together. When I read your last post there was more stuff in there that I didn't realized like pushing the TC back so it doesn't fall off. A lot of small basic things I wish I knew but don't. But nothing link jumping in and learning by doing, huh?

Question: Would you guys advise taking my seats and tuffy out to peal back the carpet and open up the trans cover in the tub to get to the top two bell' bolts? The top two bolts and the second from top on the right look impossible to get to.
 
Big Blzn said:
Would you guys advise taking my seats and tuffy out to peal back the carpet and open up the trans cover in the tub to get to the top two bell' bolts? The top two bolts and the second from top on the right look impossible to get to.
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It makes things a lot easier to do that but I've heard you can get at them with really long socket extensions. If you drop the tranny down a bit, that opens up some space as well.
 
Big Blzn said:
No, Scott. I just happen to re-read all the posts in the thread and realize that I really know very little about the drive train in vehicles/trucks and how they are put together. When I read your last post there was more stuff in there that I didn't realized like pushing the TC back so it doesn't fall off. A lot of small basic things I wish I knew but don't. But nothing link jumping in and learning by doing, huh?

Question: Would you guys advise taking my seats and tuffy out to peal back the carpet and open up the trans cover in the tub to get to the top two bell' bolts? The top two bolts and the second from top on the right look impossible to get to.
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I use a 20" extension with a swivel socket for removing the upper bolts from under the truck. Sometimes this is easier done by dropping the crossmember to gain better access to the bolts.
 
4X4HIGH said:
I use a 20" extension with a swivel socket for removing the upper bolts from under the truck. Sometimes this is easier done by dropping the crossmember to gain better access to the bolts.
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As said above a long extension makes the top two bellhousing bolts much easier to get to. You can get close to a straight shot at them if your extension is long enough to snake up there from behind the T-case
 
Alright fellas, I got started on the flexplate swap today and made some decent progress for not knowing chit and having to also keep several kids busy.

I got as far as getting the trans and T-case pushed back several inches. Should get it the rest of the way tomorrow. All the bellhousing bolts came out fairly easy with the long extensions (about 30" worth). The top right bellhousing bolt was a total PITA to get at because of the T-case, exhaust, trans dipstick tube, etc. I looked and crawled all over to get a shot at it and nothing. Finally decided to take the front right inner fender out and bingo; fairly easy access. Well until I realize the prior owner decided it was too difficult to install the bolt..

Questions. The bolts that attach the flexplate to the t/c and the crank seem metric, is that true. Bolts from the flexplate to the crank are too big for a 5/8 wrench and too small with an 11/16" wrench. Anyone know what would be the metric wrench size between these two SAE sizes OR should I just get some same size bolts in SAE size heads? Also, there was a lot of oil in the bellhousing bolts, are they blind holes and can I clean them out with break cleaner etc?
 
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Big Blzn said:
Bolts from the flexplate to the crank are too big for a 5/8 wrench and too small with an 11/16" wrench. Anyone know what would be the metric wrench size between these two SAE sizes OR should I just get some same size bolts in SAE size heads?
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I think I've heard it's best to always replace those bolts so if Scott doesn't pipe up, at least you can measure them at the store. I've seen smallblock bolt packs on the counter at most every parts store I've been to.
 
bp71k5 said:
I think I've heard it's best to always replace those bolts so if Scott doesn't pipe up, at least you can measure them at the store. I've seen smallblock bolt packs on the counter at most every parts store I've been to.
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Yeah Brian, I got a pack of ARP 12pt bolts but they didn't come with those little star washers. I need to grab some from the hardware store.

My question was related to getting the little fockers off the original flexplate with out rounding them off.
 
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