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Flexplate Question; Update and another Question

Big Blzn said:
Yeah Brian, I got a pack of ARP 12pt bolts but they didn't come with those little star washers. I need to grab some from the hardware store.

My question was related to getting the little fockers off the original flexplate with out rounding them off.
Click to expand...

The flexplate to crank bolts are SAE american not metric bolts. Use a 6 point socket to remove them, 12 point sockets usually are pretty loose on them. DO NOT use any kind of washer under the head of an ARP bolt as those bolts are designed to not use a washer, read the instructions with the bolts and it will tell you this.
 
4X4HIGH said:
The flexplate to crank bolts are SAE american not metric bolts. Use a 6 point socket to remove them, 12 point sockets usually are pretty loose on them. DO NOT use any kind of washer under the head of an ARP bolt as those bolts are designed to not use a washer, read the instructions with the bolts and it will tell you this.
Click to expand...

The bolts that are currently holding the original flexplate on do not fit a 5/8" box wrench (too small) or an 11/16" wrench (too big) so I am assuming the sockets of same size won't fit either. Thought they might be metric or something??.. So I Won't waste and time and money on washers then, cool. And the shrink packaging for the ARP bolts didn't come with any literature. Thanks for the heads up on this.:D
 
Are you using a 12 point wrench? Try a 6 point as i stated in my last reply. If it comes down to it just use an air chisel to get the bolts to turn since you're replacing them anyways.
 
I should be able to get them off. Just have to work a little harder. Found out the bolts from the 'plate to the t/c were actually metric. Forget the size but when I just had them at the hardware store they threaded right into a metric nut-size display thing. I also realized that one of the main problems for the chewed up 'plate teeth is that 2 or the 3 bolts that hold to the t/c were very loose with no lock washers threadlocker or even a washer on the nut side. THey were a flang bolt though.

Is it fine to use on the t/c connection a 3/8 bolt, washer and then a lockwasher and nut in that order all in grade 8. The bolts that were on there had a 9.8 stamped onto the head.

Sorry for all the questions. Also, the prior owner didn't feel the need (or a lazy POS)to use any washers or lock washers on the bellhousing bolts. Should I use either flat and/or lock washers?

Thanks for the answers fellas.
 
Bellhousing bolts from the factory never had any washers of any kind on them.

Torque convertor bolts came both SAE and metric. The converters were made two different ways as well, one used a nut and bolt and the other had a threaded lug welded on the convertor that a bolt threaded into. Assuming since you're asking about using a nut and bolt yours is the first style i mentioned. I would not use a standard bolt though, i would buy torque convertor bolts. You can either buy ARP brand or your local auto parts store will carry a generic brand bolt kit.
 
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