I can not find it in the manual!!
Flexplate to crank bolt torque on a SBC??
Flexplate to crank bolt torque on a SBC??
CK5
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Flexplate to crank bolt torque
- Thread starter cuervo
- Start date
Muddytazz
1 ton status
75 ft-lbs
Tyvm
Impact tight with red loctite.
Locktite blue and there is a torque in the book for a reason by some guy that is an engineer. Posting inacurate information is bad business.
It depends on what year you have, the 2 piece rear main seal engines are different than the 1 piece rear main seal engines. The torque is most critical on the 1 piece rear main seal engines becasue of distortion to the seal surface if over torqued.
I'm not disagreeing with you, that 75 ft/lbs is the correct torque. I'm just posting how I do it.
I was bending wrenches back before most of these guys were even a gleam in their mothers eye.
My junk doesn't come apart.
I thought those were 68W that bent the wrenches.
I agree, you might have your way of doing things, but there is a correct way, the book way of doing things which is generally the best way.
And as a retire 1SG I'm sure I got a few years on you in the mothers gleam.
It's the one piece seal on a GMPP HT 383 motor. I hope it's 75 as well.
Flexplate torque spec on 1986-later SBC's with 1 piece rear main seal is 60 ft/lbs.
I'm with the impact guy. Not a necessary to be torqued bolt.
Martin
Martin
On the 1985-earlier it isn't critical to "torque" but on 1986-later it is very critical that it DOES NOT get over tightened as you can distort or crack the crank at the seal surface because the bolts are very close to the seal surface edge of the crank.
<Log info into old man memory>
I usually just nail them for a second with my snap on gun, with red loctite.
I'm aware of that. I still am not getting my torque wrench out to tighten them.
Martin
So you would rather chance ruining a crank and having to replace it than to use the proper tool and torque the bolts which won't take any longer unless you keep your torque wrench far from your impact gun.
I have yet to crack one, and yes, my impact is almost always out, attached to the air hose, right by my side while I am working on something. My torque wrenches are inside their plastic Snap On cases, inside my box. Weeks go by that I don't use them.
Martin
Martin
Well, I wouldn't want to take a chance on cracking a 1200 dollar crank so getting my torque wrench out is pretty easy.
I'm with you on that, if It could possibly save me 1200 bones, I'll break out the clicker.
There is the difference, If it has to be torqued, I torque it. Period! If I can get away with out it, with a very low probability of damage I'll give it a shot. If the directions say "torque to between X ft/lbs and X ft/lbs" I'm on it, torque wrench it is!
Of course most of the crap I work on now days is inch/lbs...Aircraft
I'm with you on that, if It could possibly save me 1200 bones, I'll break out the clicker.
There is the difference, If it has to be torqued, I torque it. Period! If I can get away with out it, with a very low probability of damage I'll give it a shot. If the directions say "torque to between X ft/lbs and X ft/lbs" I'm on it, torque wrench it is!
Of course most of the crap I work on now days is inch/lbs...Aircraft
There is a torque spec for damn near every single nut and bolt on a car/truck/tractor/semi and I would assume on aircraft. Torquing everything that has a torque spec is just plain ridiculous.
Martin
Or ignorant on your part to not torque a fastener because you're too damn lazy to get out your torque wrench.
