I have a 1977 jimmy and just pulled all the interior out except the dash to spray the whole thing with the spray-on bedliner stuff. Now I have to repair the floor. Would it be cheaper/better to just use sheet metal and make my own or should I just go ahead and order new ones from LMC? Back of bed and the entire front section are going to be relaced.
CK5
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floor replacement!!??
- Thread starter dirty77
- Start date
3rdshiftdesign
1/2 ton status
I think it's better to use regular sheet metal. It's a little bit heavier, but I like it. I've never really used the LMC panels, but from what I understand they don't always fit so well.
Also, the sheet metal would probably be a much cheaper optionl.
Also, the sheet metal would probably be a much cheaper optionl.
wubba_65
Registered Member
I used 3/16 plate to replace the entire cargo area of my floor. I also extended it to cover the rear passenger foot area so that it is a level bed. It is once piece too. It was heavy, but it is solid, and it will never rust out as long as I have it.
Janitorjim8
1/2 ton status
Just take your time, measure twice cut once. Make nice cardboard cut outs first.
1985_K5_Silverado
1/2 ton status
Aluminum Diamond Plate looks good (black painted Diamond Plate looks really good) and won't rust. DP may be cheaper than you expect on ebay.
SCOOBYDANNN
1/2 ton status
did sheet metal on mine
floor out
new one in
dont know if 76-79 have the same floors as 73-75 but make sure there aren't any spot welds in the middle of the floor---it can be real hard to remove the floor when you don't know its welded
floor out
new one in
dont know if 76-79 have the same floors as 73-75 but make sure there aren't any spot welds in the middle of the floor---it can be real hard to remove the floor when you don't know its welded
Do you have a picture of how you tied that sheet metal to the rocker? Actually, it looks like your rocker is a slider? So, do you have any pictures of how you tied the sheet metal to whatever the door hits (or would hit if you had any) on the bottom?
SCOOBYDANNN
1/2 ton status
someone correct me if im wrong but factory is 16 guage, tiwan (jc whitney, LMC) are 20 ga...mine are 18
I'd avoid aluminum...
I've seen aluminum floor patches cause ten times more rot here..many people use aluminum roof flashing and pop rivets as a cheap and easy fix to get a vehicle decent looking enough to pass inspection here..but after a few months,and a salt bath during winter months,the aluminum VS steel creates a current,that causes electrolosis,and makes a battery of sorts..your floor looks like a white crystalline mess that is like battery acid,it eats the steel and aluminum,unless both are separated by some kind of insulator,like tar,plastic,etc..
One K5 I bought had all its floor rust patched that way,and it was a horror show --I had to cut it all out and do it right again!..Aluminum offers little structural strength also,even the diamond plate like running boards are made of is brittle..flex it a few times and it snaps like peanut brittle!..(and no,you cant weld aluminum to steel!)..
I'd use steel,galvanized lasts the longest,but is tricky to braze or weld without getting sick from the fumes the zinc makes when heated..I did my 74 K20 with 16 gauge galvanized sheet metal,,and used some garden fence posts that were "U" shaped for braces to stiffen the floors up-- its floors were still mint 15 years later when I scrapped it last May..only part of the truck that wasn't completely rotted away!..if only GM had galvanized the Blazers and all the other trucks from the factory!..
I've seen aluminum floor patches cause ten times more rot here..many people use aluminum roof flashing and pop rivets as a cheap and easy fix to get a vehicle decent looking enough to pass inspection here..but after a few months,and a salt bath during winter months,the aluminum VS steel creates a current,that causes electrolosis,and makes a battery of sorts..your floor looks like a white crystalline mess that is like battery acid,it eats the steel and aluminum,unless both are separated by some kind of insulator,like tar,plastic,etc..
One K5 I bought had all its floor rust patched that way,and it was a horror show --I had to cut it all out and do it right again!..Aluminum offers little structural strength also,even the diamond plate like running boards are made of is brittle..flex it a few times and it snaps like peanut brittle!..(and no,you cant weld aluminum to steel!)..
I'd use steel,galvanized lasts the longest,but is tricky to braze or weld without getting sick from the fumes the zinc makes when heated..I did my 74 K20 with 16 gauge galvanized sheet metal,,and used some garden fence posts that were "U" shaped for braces to stiffen the floors up-- its floors were still mint 15 years later when I scrapped it last May..only part of the truck that wasn't completely rotted away!..if only GM had galvanized the Blazers and all the other trucks from the factory!..
