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Foam Air Filters

mikey_d05

mikey_d05

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I'm gonna run a foam air filter on the buggy when it gets to that point. Accel makes some good looking black ones, 14" diameter, various heights.

My question is, these are considered "hazardous", have an extra shipping fee, and must be shipped ground...why?

If they're flammable...so is the cardboard box they come in. Also, should I be worried about a backfire or something torching my filter if this is the case?

Also, anyone know where I can get a black, open element air cleaner that doesn't look goofy and isn't $150?
 
I ran the small triangle/chrome grill foam insert style edelbrock on my Mopar which back-fired. Melted the foam and sent a bunch of crap down my carb and it wasn't a big back-fire either. I ran it for hood clearance but wouldn't if I didn't have to....
 
Sooo...should I take a look at a traditional filter+a wrap of some sort?
 
The Edelbrock foam filter "covered" the top of the carb it's not a reg round style (couldn't find a link on their site) so it took the full brunt of the back fire. I suppose if it were a std style "around" the carb it would be ok.
 
It's probably b/c of the aerosol oil.

What's wrong with a paper filter? If it's excessive dust you're worried about try looking into the heavy equipment filters made by Donaldson & Wix. Or buy an UMP filter like 99% of the desert racing buggies use.
 
ntsqd said:
Or buy an UMP filter like 99% of the desert racing buggies use.
Click to expand...

Any more info on these?

EDIT: Nevermind, maybe after the motor gets built and I want to protect it, but until then $400+ for an air filter is a little outta my league.

Anyone have any opinion as to whether the foam element is viable or should I just buy a good quality paper filter and wrap it with something to keep the major junk out of it?
 
The actual filter element used in the UMP can is a Donaldson part & Wix makes a replacement element. I didn't realize that the UMP's were that much. Hum, whomever quoted you $400 is cutting a fat hog. UMP says the most spendy universal filter, the long style w/ 4" OD neck, is $280 and the std. 3" OD neck is $235

I'd have to research it again, but there is a canister filter sort of like the UMP filter that comes as a unit in a plastic container. IIRC the whole unit is replacable and isn't in the UMP filter price zone by a long ways. I think it is an Isuzu delivery truck or similar application.

IME the oil-wetted filters don't do a great job with small grit. I see grit trapped in the oil stuck to the filter base on the INSIDE of the filter on my 'glass buggy.
 
maybe route it to the side and use a BHAF. Tons of filtering and huge for tons or air. I use one on my cummins. In my prerunner truck I never finished yet am gonna put one into the cab area and use duct tape as tear off so when a section gets dusty just pull a tearoff off and have a new clean section of filter
 
I would run a standard paper filter with an outerwears filter on it or possibly look into the new Amsoil EAA filters that are more like a K&N but are not oiled. I have one ordered for my Dodge CTD.

Harley
 
I was thinking it could be replicated at a lower quality for much cheaper. If you do find the Izusu application, let me know. I'd like to run something like that but it's just too much money.

I checked out the UMP site, and you're right on the prices, but by the time I got done with the plumbing and had an air box for the carb made I'd be up in the $400 range unless you know of a cheap plenum box for a Holley that's easily adaptable.

I'm not a big fan of oiled filters, I ran an open element K&N when I was young and dumb and I've found plenty of crap on the inside of the filter even with frequent cleaning and oiling.

'glass buggy? do tell...:D
 
Plz expand on the "BHAF". I know that off hwy equipment has sorted out air filtration long ago. I've seen the parts, but don't know the terminology well enough to be able to search for what I'm looking for.
 
The plenum is simple. Take a steel open element top and base, de-chrome the parts, wrap a piece of sheetmetal around them, weld together. Add a piece of whatever sized tubing to the side, weld on, port hole. We're not looking for the last 1/100th of a HP here, so a minor loss of flow isn't going to hurt you.

Can buy various steel tubes & elbows from your Walker distributor. Search their on-line Truck Exhaust plumbing page for stuff larger than 3" OD.

That BHAF is interesting.
 
Many Dodge Cummins guys run that BHAF's with the outerwears with good success also.
Harley
 
ntsqd said:
The plenum is simple. Take a steel open element top and base, de-chrome the parts, wrap a piece of sheetmetal around them, weld together. Add a piece of whatever sized tubing to the side, weld on, port hole. We're not looking for the last 1/100th of a HP here, so a minor loss of flow isn't going to hurt you.
Click to expand...

If I do that I might as well run a sealed box with a filter in it and the air intake routed elsewhere like this one:

m7.gif
 
Found the part numbers for the plastic version of the UMP filter. Ironically enough, NTSQD, you posted in the thread I found them in on race dezert.

Donaldson: C085006
NAPA: 6314
 
Alright, so I think everyone's pretty much checked out on this thread but I've decided to run a 10.5" long, 10.5" OD canister style filter. It's basically an enclosed version of the BHAF that's 2" shorter and has a 4" outlet. I think it'll be alright but I could probably find one with a 5" or a 6" outlet if needbe. Mount under the passenger dash. Specs:

https://dynamic.donaldson.com/webc/WebStore/search/item_detail.html?section=10084&item=15155

Carquest 88423
Donaldson C105004
Fleetguard AH1196
Baldwin PA2806

Suggestions? Too small for 500 cubes at 4500 rpm's? I don't know the dimensions of the actual filter so I don't know how it'll stack up againt an open element or an open BHAF.
 
I knew that I once knew that p/n or those p/n's, but was at a loss as to where I would find them again.

That ram air deal is a 14" OD element, I was figuring that the plenum could be made from something smaller.

Even at a 4" outlet I'd still use a hose with a smooth ID or a tube with straight hose couplers.
 
Uh, it'd need to have 4 bends in it. Filter to firewall, firewall to top of motor, final tube to carb.

If it's gonna stay in the engine bay I might as well keep it simple, so I'd like to move it inside, and sticking a 12x12 box cleanly in there isn't gonna be all that easy.
 
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