Ya it has a diff lock pedal on the floor. It works tried it out.
CK5
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Ford 6500 Tractor Loader Backhoe
- Thread starter Chevy305
- Start date
That makes a world of difference.
Martin
Martin
So unfortunately my block heaters don't work and the battery is dead... I think she's might have to stay here for the winter...
Block heaters and batteries are easy fixes.
Martin
Martin
hibachi under the oil pan will do it 
Fuel and oil leaks will keep the Hibachi burning.hibachi under the oil pan will do it
I'm back at it as I'm looking to put it to some actual work this summer. Over some slightly warmer days this winter I did get an inline coolant heater installed that I had laying around. It's not as good as the block heaters but it does work.
Next up was a new set of injectors:
The old set was very dirty and probably just slobbering the fuel out, which doesn't help with cold starts. But now with the new injectors it started with about 10-15 seconds of cranking on just 1 battery although it was about 65° out. However before would have required ether to get it to fire. I have no doubts that the engine is probably tired and it does have some blowby but it still works so I'm going to keep running it.
The weird thing is it still misfires above 1600rpm. Unfortunately I haven't been able to fully test it or even get it up to operating temp as I have several other repairs going on. It misfires and pops out of the exhaust so I checked the injection timing and confirmed it on spec at 19°. I just got a new valve cover gasket so next I'll pull the valve cover and set the valve lash. I figure an exhaust valve could be tight.
Next on the list was just topping up fluids. So I noticed the rear diff was low and it took about a gallon to fill it. Of course it was low because the right side brake actuator seal was torn and blown out and the gallon I just put in was pouring back out onto the ground. So I put a drain pan under it and ordered new seals for both sides. I installed the new one on the right side but I decided to leave the left side as it looked okay. However this opened up a can of worms in taking the brake linkage apart straightening everything and getting both sides into adjustment spec. It appears that they were out of wack and just about all the braking was done with the right side only. Now both sides are close to even and the pedals are no longer bottoming out. Unfortunately I haven't driven it yet to see it this makes any difference, but hopefully it actually stops now because it definitely was sketchy before.
Next problem I'm working on is the power steering pump.
It loses fluid rapidly with no outside leaks other than a slow leak from one of the steering cylinders which doesn't account for the amount of fluid it goes through. My belief was that the seal was blown out and it was leaking into the engine crank case. However getting it apart didn't reveal a smoking gun exactly and I come to find out that it has 2 seals stacked on top of each other, one to seal each side from each other. And of course all the casing orings are shot too. Time for yet another parts order since I only ordered 1 seal because that's all the parts breakdown shows.
I guess I'll rebuild the leaking steering ram too while this is all apart. Might as well...
Next up once I get the power steering back together is the sad state of the hydraulic fluid milkshake, terrible condition of the hoses, and the massive loader control valve leak. I have a pile of hoses to go on the front loader now, but the loader control valve seals aren't going to be very fun. Also changing that fluid is also going to be great with 40+ gallons on it. But hey free backhoe right?
Next up was a new set of injectors:
The old set was very dirty and probably just slobbering the fuel out, which doesn't help with cold starts. But now with the new injectors it started with about 10-15 seconds of cranking on just 1 battery although it was about 65° out. However before would have required ether to get it to fire. I have no doubts that the engine is probably tired and it does have some blowby but it still works so I'm going to keep running it.
The weird thing is it still misfires above 1600rpm. Unfortunately I haven't been able to fully test it or even get it up to operating temp as I have several other repairs going on. It misfires and pops out of the exhaust so I checked the injection timing and confirmed it on spec at 19°. I just got a new valve cover gasket so next I'll pull the valve cover and set the valve lash. I figure an exhaust valve could be tight.
Next on the list was just topping up fluids. So I noticed the rear diff was low and it took about a gallon to fill it. Of course it was low because the right side brake actuator seal was torn and blown out and the gallon I just put in was pouring back out onto the ground. So I put a drain pan under it and ordered new seals for both sides. I installed the new one on the right side but I decided to leave the left side as it looked okay. However this opened up a can of worms in taking the brake linkage apart straightening everything and getting both sides into adjustment spec. It appears that they were out of wack and just about all the braking was done with the right side only. Now both sides are close to even and the pedals are no longer bottoming out. Unfortunately I haven't driven it yet to see it this makes any difference, but hopefully it actually stops now because it definitely was sketchy before.
Next problem I'm working on is the power steering pump.
It loses fluid rapidly with no outside leaks other than a slow leak from one of the steering cylinders which doesn't account for the amount of fluid it goes through. My belief was that the seal was blown out and it was leaking into the engine crank case. However getting it apart didn't reveal a smoking gun exactly and I come to find out that it has 2 seals stacked on top of each other, one to seal each side from each other. And of course all the casing orings are shot too. Time for yet another parts order since I only ordered 1 seal because that's all the parts breakdown shows.
I guess I'll rebuild the leaking steering ram too while this is all apart. Might as well...
Next up once I get the power steering back together is the sad state of the hydraulic fluid milkshake, terrible condition of the hoses, and the massive loader control valve leak. I have a pile of hoses to go on the front loader now, but the loader control valve seals aren't going to be very fun. Also changing that fluid is also going to be great with 40+ gallons on it. But hey free backhoe right?
Haha. I’ve had a lot of things that were free…. Absolutely nothing is free. Lol.
But cheepish is still very cool!
Exactly but given prices of equipment these days, I could still sink a few thousand into it and still be on top.
Indeed!
I know the costs well. We have been farming for years. I work with millions of dollars equipment.
Thankfully not owned by us anymore.
Most expensive piece we own now is a 2014 Bobcat s630 it was expensive enough.
So I've got the power steering pump back together and reinstalled. After bleeding the system it seems to be holding a level which is good news.
I think the brakes were dragging a little so I loosened them up a 1/2 turn on each side which seems better.
I then changed the rear diff fluid so I could call that completely wrapped up. Surprisingly the fluid wasn't that dirty. Oh well now I know the condition and age of the oil now.
I also changed the engine oil which for some reason was nasty again. It was grayish and looked like it could have had some water in it. I'm not losing any coolant so I know that's not an issue. I'm wondering if the inside of the engine is just sludgy and nasty. I'll know more once I pull the valve cover to do valve lash.
I also noticed after moving and running it for 20 mins and using it, the temp gauge never registered a temp. My IR gun showed 135 at the hottest point including the upper hose being hot so that leads me to believe the thermostat is stuck open.
I think the brakes were dragging a little so I loosened them up a 1/2 turn on each side which seems better.
I then changed the rear diff fluid so I could call that completely wrapped up. Surprisingly the fluid wasn't that dirty. Oh well now I know the condition and age of the oil now.
I also changed the engine oil which for some reason was nasty again. It was grayish and looked like it could have had some water in it. I'm not losing any coolant so I know that's not an issue. I'm wondering if the inside of the engine is just sludgy and nasty. I'll know more once I pull the valve cover to do valve lash.
I also noticed after moving and running it for 20 mins and using it, the temp gauge never registered a temp. My IR gun showed 135 at the hottest point including the upper hose being hot so that leads me to believe the thermostat is stuck open.
Took the cover off the loader control valve. It sure is greasy. You can see in the 2nd pic where the leak is coming from. For anyone that knows hydraulics, is the spool toast or can I just replace the seal at the top and hope for the best?
judging by the paper clip, a repair has been attempted in the past. If there are no scrapes or gouges in the spool where the seal rides you might get lucky.
That looks a bit different then the spools I am use to but I would throw new seals on it and hope for the best. Some spools have a scraper/dust seal at the very top as well.
Hydraulic system overhaul time!
No more milkshakes here.
So I may have mentioned it before but the hydraulic reservoir cap was wrong and would let rain, water, condensation etc leak past and this is the results. Plus many years of neglect and you get a milkshake with all sorts of sludge and goo.
The filter was pretty well clogged I have to wonder if it was bypassing
Bottom of the tank:
After a bunch of cleaning and rags:
I pulled the suction strainer and it was covered in sludge and rubber bits. It appears a previous owner wrapped some window screen over it and unfortunately wasn't strong enough as it blew out and surely sent some yummy bits through the system. Also unfortunately the part is discontinued so I'm ordering some bulk stainless mesh from McMaster to rewrap it.
Also my leaking spool valves are removed and on the bench waiting to be rebuilt.
No more milkshakes here.
So I may have mentioned it before but the hydraulic reservoir cap was wrong and would let rain, water, condensation etc leak past and this is the results. Plus many years of neglect and you get a milkshake with all sorts of sludge and goo.
The filter was pretty well clogged I have to wonder if it was bypassing
Bottom of the tank:
After a bunch of cleaning and rags:
I pulled the suction strainer and it was covered in sludge and rubber bits. It appears a previous owner wrapped some window screen over it and unfortunately wasn't strong enough as it blew out and surely sent some yummy bits through the system. Also unfortunately the part is discontinued so I'm ordering some bulk stainless mesh from McMaster to rewrap it.
Also my leaking spool valves are removed and on the bench waiting to be rebuilt.
Spool valve seals all replaced, cleaned up and ready to be reinstalled.
McMaster is so fast with shipping only Amazon rivals it. Got the stainless mesh and wrapped it on the suction strainer. I used stainless wire ties I had for exhaust wrap. I figured they would hold up indefinitely while I don't know about a regular nylon zip tie surviving submerged in oil long term.
My wrap job isn't perfect but hey it's good enough for what it's for.
My wrap job isn't perfect but hey it's good enough for what it's for.
Spool valves reinstalled
Hydraulic system buttoned up! Took it for a test drive and it everything works just like before except far fewer leaks. I didn't say no leaks but significantly better. I installed all my missing o rings that I was waiting on and swapped a handful of very crusty hoses. The rear spool valve still weaps but ever so slightly, much better than when it poured out before. The hydraulic Reservoir has gone from looking like a mocha latte to a chai latte. But hey progress is progress. I'll have to do another oil change on it once I get a few hours on it.
