sixb
1/2 ton status
Anyone ever fully box a k5 frame, I will be doing this for my cummins conversion. Any advice or pics. of a boxed frame would be great, Thanks.
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frame boxing
- Thread starter sixb
- Start date
Not sure if you can search or not, but if you can, there is quite a bit on this.
Basics are that you box with same thickness metal the frame is, and you have to box the entire frame, or it will crack wherever your boxing ends.
IMO its also a good idea to replace all of the stock riveted in crossmembers, as they are pretty poor. If you look at newer trucks you'll see that the crossmembers are tubes welded between the frame rails. Might be hard to fit those on our trucks in some areas, but if you can...
Anything prior to '84 or somewhere around there needs the front frame crossmember replaced anyways, as prior aren't supported well enough, and tend to break around the passenger side where the motor mount towers bolt. The later ones have a riveted on plate to reinforce the weak area.
Basics are that you box with same thickness metal the frame is, and you have to box the entire frame, or it will crack wherever your boxing ends.
IMO its also a good idea to replace all of the stock riveted in crossmembers, as they are pretty poor. If you look at newer trucks you'll see that the crossmembers are tubes welded between the frame rails. Might be hard to fit those on our trucks in some areas, but if you can...
Anything prior to '84 or somewhere around there needs the front frame crossmember replaced anyways, as prior aren't supported well enough, and tend to break around the passenger side where the motor mount towers bolt. The later ones have a riveted on plate to reinforce the weak area.
sixb
1/2 ton status
Yeah no search that I can find. Thanks for the info. though.
Here's one to get you started. 
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=140818&highlight=boxing+frame
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=140818&highlight=boxing+frame
I fully boxed my frame.
Box the whole thing from one end to the other. Do it in sections. Large as you can handle to do. You can use corragated cardboard to make templates. Lay it up to the frame rail and tap along the edges with a small hammer. It'll leave a mark that you can then cut out for patterns.
Factory crossmembers, some can be welded in (incorporated) and some should probably be ditched and replaced with something removable after the boxing.
Box the whole thing from one end to the other. Do it in sections. Large as you can handle to do. You can use corragated cardboard to make templates. Lay it up to the frame rail and tap along the edges with a small hammer. It'll leave a mark that you can then cut out for patterns.
Factory crossmembers, some can be welded in (incorporated) and some should probably be ditched and replaced with something removable after the boxing.
George_Pimpdaddy
1/2 ton status
lets see some pics!
sixb
1/2 ton status
Thanks for the great tip with the cardboard.
How much does your rig weigh?
Why do you ask?
I roughly calculated how much the additional steel should weigh, it was somewhere along the lines of 500lb to do a K5 frame. That didn't figure in any additional weight for crossmembers, but if tubular I'd expect them to weigh the same or less than the stock flat steel stamped ones.
I'm curious though, could you lighten up the frame if it were boxed, by cutting circular holes in it, assuming they aren't so large the weight of the truck would deform the frame there? Stock the frames have tons of holes in them of various sizes, would be nice to not add so much weight if possible.
I roughly calculated how much the additional steel should weigh, it was somewhere along the lines of 500lb to do a K5 frame. That didn't figure in any additional weight for crossmembers, but if tubular I'd expect them to weigh the same or less than the stock flat steel stamped ones.
I'm curious though, could you lighten up the frame if it were boxed, by cutting circular holes in it, assuming they aren't so large the weight of the truck would deform the frame there? Stock the frames have tons of holes in them of various sizes, would be nice to not add so much weight if possible.
Just curious.
RGV72BLAZER
1/2 ton status
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my semi boxed frame was waaaay heavier than the stock frame. it'll add a lot of weight.
If you look at the weight of the frame (380# according to the shipping weight thread, which included a swaybar) and figure that the top and bottom frame rail width added together is likely equal to the height of the frame, weight increase should be roughly 33% if boxing with same thickness metal, and normal cutouts. That actually "only" adds roughly 126lbs to the truck. Obviously those are speculative numbers, actual frame width/height numbers I don't have, plus the fact that the frame is not consistently one width.
On my truck however that would equate to a rougly 2% increase in overall weight, and my truck is light compared to many on here. A 6000lb truck would be under that percentage.
If you are really serious, a complete cage is the way to go however.
On my truck however that would equate to a rougly 2% increase in overall weight, and my truck is light compared to many on here. A 6000lb truck would be under that percentage.
If you are really serious, a complete cage is the way to go however.
sixb
1/2 ton status
Thanks for the pics. and the info. I guess I will have to pay the fee and post up my build with pics., seems there is a lot of good info. here esp. for a guy like me that has no idea of what he's doing. Thanks.
Randy92782
1 ton status
There was a guy that did the cummins swap in his truck here. He had videos and such of it also. Pretty cool truck. Not sure but i don't think he really had to box his frame...
I may be wrong though
I may be wrong though
I know for fact its less than 175 lbs. of additional weight in the boxing material alone. 175 lbs. is one sheet 4x8 10ga. material. It doesn't take that much.
That being said, my rig weighs in pretty close to 6k without the spare on it and 2 people in the seats, full tank of fuel.
I also have a full cage, connected directly to the frame at 14 points if memory serves. Body is also solid mounted along with the engine, trans and tcases. No soft joints anywhere. When mine flexes its strictly suspension.
You can tell when you ride in it too. No creaking or moaning and groaning. Smooth and solid.
That being said, my rig weighs in pretty close to 6k without the spare on it and 2 people in the seats, full tank of fuel.
I also have a full cage, connected directly to the frame at 14 points if memory serves. Body is also solid mounted along with the engine, trans and tcases. No soft joints anywhere. When mine flexes its strictly suspension.
You can tell when you ride in it too. No creaking or moaning and groaning. Smooth and solid.
RGV72BLAZER
1/2 ton status
- Joined
- Jan 23, 2006
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IDK, but hear Kert's rig is one of the most poorly built K5s in the country 
IDK, but hear Kert's rig is one of the most poorly built K5s in the country
Them's fightin' words, its on!
sixb
1/2 ton status
Did you leave the break and fuel lines in the frame?
