CK5
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Frame off resto underway - Dial-up beware

Another choice may be a SF 14 bolt. Large 33 spline shafts, 9.5" ring gear and I think 3.42's were available...plus it can be had in 6 lug. Weight is also less by about 100 lbs IIRC. The only downside is that it is a 'C' clip diff, but that isn't that big a deal. For the size tires you're planning on a SF 14 would about live forever under your truck.

Rene, I've seen the light and will go with a 14FF/D44 3.73's (F&R ARB) combo on 35's. Part of my hesitation to step up the bigger running gear is a brand spanking full set of MT's (15 " 33's ) I bought before the truck got tore down, With respect to that I told myself its only one set of tyres, they will probably be ready to be replaced in 20k's. Also with the extra weight, well, I'm on coils so what the hell. I want an ultimate tourer and part of that is durability. I'll give myself an uppercut for not coming to my senses sooner. Its 8 lug all the way.

What color are you going with?What color are you going with?
White with black accents etc. The colour is Polar White and looks like this
http://www.nissan.com.au/patrol/msummary_ti.asp

cheers

Jason
 
its late here, but probably early there. You're online, post them pics. Or is the camera still ruined from priming?

I am still in awe of how nice your tub is. Did you decide to not sandblast the cargo area because of cost or because it had no rust?

Are you going to keep the column shift? I installed a 23" tall lokar shifter that works great. Might feel familiar to the lefty shifters.

What are your plans for the D shaped opening on the firewall on your passenger side? looks like it would collect chit when wheeling.
 
AussieK5 said:
brand spanking full set of MT's (15 " 33's ) ....... Its 8 lug all the way.

I can get you a set of 15" 8 lug rims... I know a guy who has a set and they are in good shape. As long as you are going to swap to discs on the 14BFF you won't have any issues fitting them.

Let me know and I will contact the guy for you.
 
Its about 1700 here ATM, I came in for a drink and have got sidetracked by the forum.

I left the cargo area because it was absolutely pristine, there was no point to stripping the factory finish off only to replace it. All the joints and seams however got a touch up just to be on the safe side.

As I plan to run a full manual 4l80 I'm going to install something like this.
http://www.bmracing.com/index.php?id=products&sid=4&cat=2&subcat=1&pid=341 Once the truck is on the road I will develop a paddle system on the steering wheel that actuates solenoid attached to the shifter arm. Obviously this will only work if the shifter is a true rachet style that has no lockout or dentents. Its something I want to do for one of my muscle cars so I thought why not the truck too.

That opening I left like that so I could access that void area for spraying, I plan to put a blank panel over so in the future I can still get in there because yes, loads of chit gets caught up in these areas. I will do the same with the old heater hole on the other side.

Sorry no pics, the cam is a little worse for wear ATM. And the wife is pissed because its hers :doah:
 
some how I paid for "OUR" digital camera, only to get bitched at for filling it with truck pictures. the build looks great. Are you still on vaation from work? Are you going to paint it yourself? What happened to the frame? haven't seen any pics of that.

sorry, just trying to pry more pics out of you.
 
awesome build.:bow: I was pretty freaked out at first cause I started looking at the pics before I actually read anything and couldnt figure out what was messed up with your dash. then it jumped up and kicked me in the face that your from down under and everything is backwards from up here. that thing is gonna be purdy when its done. one question though, does the tranny have the shifting linkage on the right side too? its crazy seeing all the stuff on the opposite side from what Im used to.
 
does the tranny have the shifting linkage on the right side too?
No its on the left, it runs under the tranny via cable. Most other 70's era trannies from GMH the Aussie GM arm (TH350/400/Trimatic Glide etc) run under the tranny via a rod lnkage arrangement.

Are you still on vaation from work? Are you going to paint it yourself? What happened to the frame? haven't seen any pics of that.

Yep, still on vacation :D. I'll make up a booth and spray it myself. The frame has'nt had much done as the cab and panels need to be painted so they are weatherproof as it has to leave garage for the chassis work to start in earnest.
 
Some more work in progress pics.





For some reason the booster/steering brace was swiss cheesed by some madman with a drill. 1/2 of the holes were actually screwed or bolted. Here they are being filled prior to being ground down for painting.


A industrial 2k low gloss black will cover any working parts not painted white.


Some slicing and dicing to clearance the fenders for 35's. About 1.5" was taken out and the lower lip was midly rolled.














Finally got the monkey off my back. This roof was giving me the sh1ts. I came up with a solution now that I'm happy with....The rods are tacked on, the seam sealer will remove any vibration and the roof was dimpled in thin spots to maintain panel integrity. The black coating is rust converter which will be saturated in fish oil once the cab is fully painted. With this done I can crack on with primering and top coats.




The result of a tyre blowout at 65. Actually the truck was doing about 10-15 when it hit the tree...I back ited out, changed the tyre and finished the trip, another 1000 miles. Try doing that in any 06 rig :D


Someone had re-painted the bonnet at some stage and I dont know what they used, but it could repel paint stripper with ease. Out came the grinder ...The sandblasters will finish off the rest.
 
Nice work man, we can't wait to see the results.
 
youre going to reuse that hood?? what about the huge dent? and excellent work on that fender trimming!! you got all scientific and stuff and it looks really good!
 
Is it wrong that i might be more excited about your build then I am about mine?? You just put so much time and effort into this... makes me a little teary eyed just thinking about it, I want to give you a big man hug.
 
Looking good man. I wish I'd taken more time trimming my fenders!
Got a bit of panel beating to do on that hood eh!
 
Thanks for the support guys :thumb:

I get that bonnet back from the blaster this afternoon (5 days late grr), but the other guard is my biggest headache ATM. Besides repairing damage from the afor mentioned blowout and subsequent clearancing (with a BFH to fit the mid trip purchased, replacement set of MTZ 33's), I have to beat up the lower 6" of the lip from scratch. Hmmmm might see if I can hunt down a front guard for less than the price of a kidney. :crazy:

I'm spending way more time on the prep and bodywork than I planned as my K20 has'nt sold near as quick as I thought it would. The K20 was going to finance the driveline. This is probably for the best as I hate doing half a job and the result will be with me for some time.

Current build specs:
6.5TD intercooled (blueprinted, economy cups etc etc)
full manual 4l80e/205
3.73 D44/14FF ARBs
GU nissan coils F & R 2 (lift approx 2" over stock)
3 link front , 4 link rear
H2 rims with 35's
Single 3" pipe
Hydroboost (local regs permitting)
31 gal stock tank + 20 gal customs aux/s
Snorkel
Aftermarket or BA ford seats , rear stock
Aftermarket guage cluster (EGT, boost, T/temp, H20 temp, speed, fuel, oil, batt/s)
Twin batterries (poss low mount on chassis)
ARB fridge
35 gal H20 tank (removable and internal, prob food grade pvc construction and prob as two 17's)
Rear drawers (alloy, full width and extending to rear seat)
Removable rear bed and alloy slide out side storage system
On board air (electric)
Winch (probably electric F to R capable)
Road armour style front bumper (steel) with alloy posts
Tube rear bumper with two swing away spares
UHF/CB comms fit
Light force spotties
White paint with black accents, dark tint.

Theres more but I cant think of it all for now.
 
When my Sub gets finished, instead of a bunch of parts lying around, I want to build the same, a vehicle that can support me and the family for two weeks or so out in the middle of nowhere
 
As a side note D44 sell for $600 down there, here you can't give them away for a $100, maybe I should start a shipping business:D
 
Well, I'm back at work and the K5 aint close to done. I'm not too fazed as the project's been sort of on hold for a while waiting for a few things to be sorted out.

Its probably a bit blasphamous to mention this around here, but as the project has taken shape I've become more and more attached to it and really dont want to beat on it when its done. I have a high degree of mechanical sympathy, but hard wear and damage will ultimately be unavoidable.

The projects teetering on a knife edge with the alternative being much more of a factory look and feel with its end use not being anywhere near as extreme.

This of course means I get another 4x4 for expedition use in lieu of the K5, a vehicle not as valuable in non-monetary terms to me. The wife agrees and is pretty keen to have the K5 'restored' and updated rather than turned into our long range all-terrain camping rig.

The Blazer then will be left to minor DD duties, holidays, towing (ski boat and muscle cars) with sand/beach trips factoring highly.

Some would agree with this, some wont I'm sure. :D
 
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