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Frame Paint

Randy92782

Randy92782

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So those of you that actually stripped your frame down and re-painted or lined it with something, what did you use??

I thought about using some kinda bed liner (probably Al's liner or something) and edoing the whole brame on the '72.

Any suggestions??
 
I just got done sandblasting my frame and painting it with Eastwood's Extreme Chasis Black Satin Paint. It looks great. I primed it with the Extreme Chasis Black Primer. I sprayed it out of my HVLP sray gun. This stuff worked great. I also like that Eastwood sells the stuff in aerosol cans for touchups.
 
Man i used to have a couple of those magazine pamphlet thing i think but i'll have to find it again
 
I would use that if I was going to paint mine, but I think I'm going to powder coat it.
 
I had the same question - I discovered there are a lot of opinions on chassis paint. I have been told to use: 1) a moisture cured product like POR-15, 2) powder coating, 3) automotive grade epoxy primer and top coat, or 4) Krylon spray cans.

I like the idea of an epoxy primer with a top coat best. It should be a tough and attractive finish, but I needed something less expensive that I could spray in my driveway. I decided to try a product from Summit Racing - Summit Chassis Shield Resin. It is a two part paint (catalyst required) that is priced fairly reasonably.

I can't comment on it yet since it has been raining too much lately to blast and spray my frame. I will let you know how I like it hopefully sometime in the next few weeks.
 
I grinded/blasted the whole frame as best I could and used 2 coats of rust bullet on it. The stuff is really durable, it held up to the frame's weight on the concrete after being slid around. Then just used tons of primer and flat black just to be overkill and cover the silver.
 
i wont get involved in this one, I just piss people off..... :wink1:
 
I blasted the frame and then used a 2 part epoxy primer and covered it with East
suspension & Engine 9-9-08 006.jpg
wood Satin Extreme Black Chassis paint.
 
ryoken said:
i wont get involved in this one, I just piss people off..... :wink1:
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Nah you wouldn't piss me off but i admire your analness in keeping **** from rusting :D

Is analness a word??

Anyways i have alot of work to do on this frame. thanks for the suggestions thus far ;)
 
ryoken said:
i wont get involved in this one, I just piss people off..... :wink1:
Click to expand...

Really? I can't believe it Paul....:D

I have used the POR-15 on my Jeepster. I used the marine clean, and the etching wash prior to application. It holds up well, except of course when you scrape on rocks or other things. When you break the surface of the coating (think like cutting a hole in plastic wrap) the stuff loses its adhesion pretty quickly. Pressure washing after a recent trip proved that it was easy to blast it off the frame once that surface of the coating has been broken open.

Now I believe Paul suggests using Epoxy Primer, and top coats. Correct me on that if I'm wrong. I haven't use this combo personally, but Paul has a wealth of Painting experience, so for best results I would consider his opinions. I don't know what would hold up to rocks though, maybe the line-X or something of that nature?
 
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alrighty, I'll chime in with my .02 and see who I can offend.... :wink1:

first, as for a catalyzed process, "epoxy" primer is a little dinosauric.. honestly, it's older tech and the urethanes out now are superior.. it was "the chit" 10, 15, 20 yrs ago, not so much anymore.. the urethanes are a superior product, stick just as well, just as waterproof, and WAY more user-friendly...

i'm just as guilty for propagating the term "epoxy"... I say it all the time, just because I think it's a term most will recognize, and it's in the same ballpark as a modern urethane primer...

now, that being said, epoxy primers are definitely a superior product to ANY of these other choices, RB, POR, etc.... any catalyzed product will blow away a non.. period.. end of story..

sorry guys, encapsilators such as RB and POR have their place and uses, but will never hold a candle to a proper catalyzed system... Thats why I always say, that I hate seeing someone go thru the bs of blasting a frame, think they're doing it as best as they can, then put an encapsilator on.. don't be part of the hype bandwagon...

I mean, it's not bad, better than rattlecans, lacquer primer, etc, but encapsilators don't hold a candle to a 2-part zinc wash, urethane primer and topcoat... which obviously is more costly, but if we're talking quality, it's the "right" way to do it......

if you got a rusty frame, aren't blasting, or it isn't critical to you, RB or POR away....

also, let it be known, that bedliners such as Herc, etc will also hold up WAY better over a proper system such as I mentioned... my interior will be zinced, urethaned, Imroned, THEN Herced... far superior to putting a bedliner over primer, or god forbid, raw steel...

95% of the world wont do that... they may put a nice primer on, and sand it, then say, screw the topcoat, I'm just gonna herc it, "nobodies gonna see it"... that may be true, but if you want it as bulletproof as possible, that Imron or good paint topcoat makes it that much more durable...

I diatribe about this stuff because I want you guys to know the right, best way it can be done.. you backtrack that as you see fit depending on your budget, or hopefully not laziness...
 
ryoken said:
alrighty, I'll chime in with my .02 and see who I can offend.... :wink1:

first, as for a catalyzed process, "epoxy" primer is a little dinosauric.. honestly, it's older tech and the urethanes out now are superior.. it was "the chit" 10, 15, 20 yrs ago, not so much anymore.. the urethanes are a superior product, stick just as well, just as waterproof, and WAY more user-friendly...

i'm just as guilty for propagating the term "epoxy"... I say it all the time, just because I think it's a term most will recognize, and it's in the same ballpark as a modern urethane primer...

now, that being said, epoxy primers are definitely a superior product to ANY of these other choices, RB, POR, etc.... any catalyzed product will blow away a non.. period.. end of story..

sorry guys, encapsilators such as RB and POR have their place and uses, but will never hold a candle to a proper catalyzed system... Thats why I always say, that I hate seeing someone go thru the bs of blasting a frame, think they're doing it as best as they can, then put an encapsilator on.. don't be part of the hype bandwagon...

I mean, it's not bad, better than rattlecans, lacquer primer, etc, but encapsilators don't hold a candle to a 2-part zinc wash, urethane primer and topcoat... which obviously is more costly, but if we're talking quality, it's the "right" way to do it......

if you got a rusty frame, aren't blasting, or it isn't critical to you, RB or POR away....

also, let it be known, that bedliners such as Herc, etc will also hold up WAY better over a proper system such as I mentioned... my interior will be zinced, urethaned, Imroned, THEN Herced... far superior to putting a bedliner over primer, or god forbid, raw steel...

95% of the world wont do that... they may put a nice primer on, and sand it, then say, screw the topcoat, I'm just gonna herc it, "nobodies gonna see it"... that may be true, but if you want it as bulletproof as possible, that Imron or good paint topcoat makes it that much more durable...

I diatribe about this stuff because I want you guys to know the right, best way it can be done.. you backtrack that as you see fit depending on your budget, or hopefully not laziness...
Click to expand...

+1 Man I don't think you piss anyone off and if you do they need to chill. It's always good to know the best way to do things.
 
So Ryoken where do you get these paints and what are the steps? From bare steel? Or close to it
 
obviously there are some varying degrees to how this can be approached, brand-wise, etc...

even i backed off a bit and have been using rattlecan zinc, as opposed to a catalyzed zinc wash...

here's a zinc wash still available from Awlgrip... it is a marine product that I use quite often... it's becoming harder and harder to find zinc products in the auto industry, but they are still around... iirc, Dupont is still making one... best bet is to find your local autobody supply place and see what they have... be prepared to hear all kinds of sales speak on just getting an etching filler primer tho.. thats the big push these days... they're decent, but not as good as the oldschool zinc washes...

http://www.gcmdistributor.com/product_detail.php?pid=96 about $150 makes 2 gallons...

thats the best you can run on the raw steel... you only need it on raw stuff, so it can be spotted in if you've left paint in areas... that kinda situation really would make the rattlecans the easiest.... Ive been using the Moeller stuff...

193530__75522.jpg


http://www.google.com/products?hl=e...chromate&ndsp=20&ie=UTF-8&sa=N&tab=if&start=0


as for urethane fill primer on top of that, and over everything else... I've been hawking Dupont's Nason 2K urethane primer.. very economical at about $100 a gallon... but I'm sure PPG, Sickens, etc have their own lines out too...

obviously, this is all "pro" stuff.. those zinc products can be had at any marine store usually, but autobody supply stores will carry auto lines of Dupont, PPG, Glasurit, etc....

and even more obviously, this is not some $80 a gallon farm implement, rustoleum approach.. nothing wrong with that, this is just my resto background, "make it last as long as possible" approach to refinishing.... :wink1:
 
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I don't think a lot of people "know" about pro grade products either. Lack of educating one's self on it. The Rust Bullet, and POR-15 stuff is, like you say "hyped" to fill the need, but that doesn't mean its the best way to do it.
Appreciate your comments Paul.
 
yeah, i feel bad about this stuff at times, telling guys who think they're doing it the best they can, that it's not.. I appreciate the effort, thats why i want the info out there, informed decisions..

here's my personal work analogy to this.. when i went to my last marina 5 yrs ago, the owner bought all fram oil filters. cuz he thought they were the best.. honestly did.. advertising is a powerful thing.. he almost cried when i told him they where chit.. he was trying to do right by his customers, just not properly informed...

thanks, and your welcome... :D
 
I went the POR-15 route and was pretty happy with it. In fact, I did my front and rear axle with it as well and it has been holding up very well. With the frame, I sandblasted it, then did the Marine Clean deal, then the regular POR-15 followed up by chassis black. I found out how hard it was to get it off when I accidently painted too far into the area around the steering gear and needed to clean it up for some welding. Nothing I tried other than a die grinder would get the paint off of the frame. I guess it comes down to how much you want to spend and how long you are going to keep the truck.
 
So whats you take on the Ceramic Chassis paint from Eastwood? Seems like a good product from what I've read/seen/heard from other peoples projects. I try to be well informed before I buy/do something :D.

Course like most things the prep work before hand is probably the biggest factor in the quality of the job.
 
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