Frame Paint

[ryoken]

it all depends on the project for me... yeah, my bumper, cage and floor stuff? that I can't reshoot easy, yup, I try for quality...

a truck I never plan to do the frame, etc, that I'm gonna throw a shackle flip on? I'll rattle can that puppy!

 

[chulisohombre]

def good info paul.i need to get my truck back legal so i can wheel with you or skate.haha.and also borrow your fab skills.i have done a lot of nothing but web wheeling the last couple years.truck is sad and all alone in the garage waiting on money to get it back on the road again.your info on paint and prep is real good.eventually i will have money again to get motivation to do something to my rig.

 

[ryoken]

hopefully I'll be doing some wheelin out Pennsy-way next summer... Probably wont be skatin till then either...

heck, I haven't "wheeled" since my Powerwagon days in the mid to late 80's... now that the K5 became my secondary vehicle, time to wheel it...

thats my only holdup is cash really... labors free... kinda of a chain of events in a build.. well, need a new tranny, why not do X too, then might as well do Y while your there, yada, yada......

 

[chulisohombre]

yep thATS how i started also.kept breaking 12 bolts,so why not upgrade to 14 bolt.now have to upgrade to 3/4 ton front and regear and new rims and tires.now have to do disk brakes to lose some weight and better brakes and then figure out the ebrake.now inboard shocks.i have it mostly legal now.id have to take it to my local shop and see what he says.he only charges me 15 bucks to look it over and tell me what it needs to be legal.ive taken at least 10 cars and trucks to him this way.usually it is minor and ill fix it and tak it back.its just been a never ending money issue the last coupla years.extra kid and shorted hours at work dont equal enough to put into the blazer.its hard enough to keep the daily driving vehicles going sometimes.lol.i still skate at least once a week.i got a 3 foot mini in the back yard.

 

[rufusbooth]

I hope I am not bringing this thread off topic too far but I have a question for Ryoken reguarding metal preperation and treatment before applying a paint system.

I am considering using the following system to coat my frame after cleaning it as best I can.

Rattle can zinc chromate.
2 part urethane primer
and a catalyzed top coat to finish it off.

Here is where the question lies. I do not have access to the optimal metal prep tool a sand blaster. That being the case I will be cleaning the frame down to bare metal using an angle grinder with a cup brush on it to remove as much surface rust as possible. We all know that this will not be 100% effective in removing the rust from the pores of the metal.

Have you used any metal prep chemicals that convert the rust to an inert material? I am aware of one called rust mortician (a mild acid).
Have you worked with any products like this? Do you recommend them? and if so, what is the product of choice? Or is there a better method to take care of the rust, short of sand blasting, that will stop the microscopic rust that is left behind after my wire wheeling? I will be doing an excellent job of getting it down to bare metal but you jnow the rust is lurking in the pores...you cant see it...but the enemy is there!

Cheers,

Rufus

 

[ryoken]

sure.. i used to use rust converters back in the day a bunch.. phosphoric acid mainly, it creates black, iron tannate from the rust...

i MUCH prefer converters to encapsilators such as POR15 and RB.. Eastwood, kleen-strip, corroseal, and some others make converters, it's been ages tho since i bought any tho...

one suggestion tho...tho i'm sure you'll do a fine job with a wire wheel, it is not always the best surface prep for coating... it puts a "sheen" to the steel.. i would suggest using the wire wheel, than take a sander to it.. a dual action, either a DA, or even a palm sander to it... something in an 80 grit range.. especially after you do the rust converter.. it cleans up the clean steel, and puts a "cut" to the newly created black, iron tannate spots...

 

[rufusbooth]

ok, thanks for the info! I had not really considered surface prep for mechanical adhesion after the wire wheel work and conversion. That definitely makes sense given the "shine" I have seen after I have used converter in the past.

so in this case...
wire wheel to bare metal.
Clean surface with wax and grease remover.
apply converter per product instructions (something like rust-mort)
scuff surface after conversion with an 80 grit DA for mechanical adhesion.
clean surface with wax and grease remover.
apply 2 super thin coats of Zinc to bare metal.
apply urethane primer
topcoat.


Awsome, Thanks for the advice Ryoken.

Cheers,

Rufus

 

[Desert Rat]

http://www.por15.com/ This stuff works great!

That is what I used and I couldn't be happier. I also did my axles with it and it has lasted very well and is very durable. I fabbed up a home made blast booth in my garage and used a Sears sandblaster to take my frame down to the bare metal. Then I used POR-15's Metal Ready and Marine Cleaner. Once the POR-15 was on, it was unbelievably tough.