CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Fried dash harness decisions for L28 swap

SpeedlabDan

Keepin it trashy never classy
 Premium
GMOTM Winner
Joined
Aug 3, 2017
Posts
5,597
Reaction score
8,949
Location
Woodstown, New Jersey
OK so I've spent the better part of my day separating wires under the dash. Wish I hadn't so many experiences here but so it go.
Anyways, I've got a 84 6.2diesel dash in good shape, the wires I narrowed down to be the culprit are a brown with white tracer going from the inner harness to who knows where as I can't find the other end maybe it's vaporized:thinking:. The other wire coming from the column heat sink connector is black with blue tracer.
On the diagrams the black/blue are for a park switch:dunno:
Either way I have nothing functional in the dash and I'm not gonna bother untill I get the bare bones gas dash from my donor 2wd dually. The sbc 400 is wired to run barely from the power as a mud truck.
Now the question is, do I buy a new dash harness for 250$ in an effort to keep original inside before I get a Dakota digital dash for the L28 swap or do I not need the factory dash wiring?
For the next couple few months before I pull the engine and trans for the swap and get the couplers for the np205 adapters I'd like to just cruise this truck around town etc.
Or do I just mothball the 400/400 now n figure out how to push my beast around my yard?
Also, Wtf is this?! A light? A photo eye? I haven't a clue but it's factory... :1zhelp:

IMG_20180210_164459.jpg

IMG_20180210_143810.jpg

IMG_20180210_143919.jpg
 
photo eye light was for cruse control or computer input on some . hooked to back of speedo with 1 screw .

heat sink on column is prob the intermittent wiper box .
 
photo eye light was for cruse control or computer input on some . hooked to back of speedo with 1 screw .

heat sink on column is prob the intermittent wiper box .
So it's possible the wipers were shorted and caused this black/blue wire to overheat... It does say it was a park switch wire on the schematics though
 
I'd imagine I don't need any of the old cruise control stuff if u use all the new with the donor engine. Just figure out to controlling it with the almost column stalk
 
I agre with @sweetk30 as far as what those wires are. I didn't look to see if I could find the brown one.
But I bet that you could get it operational with just a little work. See if you can use an ohm meter to find out if the burned wires connect to fuse locations, or where. Then see if you can repair or leave them disconnected.
 
I agre with @sweetk30 as far as what those wires are. I didn't look to see if I could find the brown one.
But I bet that you could get it operational with just a little work. See if you can use an ohm meter to find out if the burned wires connect to fuse locations, or where. Then see if you can repair or leave them disconnected.
I think at this point since it kinda works I'm gonna let it be as most of it won't be needed with the swap and new dash I just don't want anything else to burn up from po improper wiring from the 6.2l to 400sbc swap
 
But isn't that switch just power which gets sent to the terminal on the trans when the throttle is pushed to a certain level?
(Triggering the switch)
Install a momentary switch on a ratchet shifter!!
:pimp:
 
Back when I had a '66 Buick Electra 225,it had a TH400 with a switch pitch torque converter,that was operated by a switch that was activated by the throttle linkage,mounted on the carb..

That switch had been broken,and it caused the transmission to stay in the passing gear position and put the converter in its low pitch to increase the stall speed--this led to the car being scrapped,and the guy at the scrapyard told me when I asked if the car had a title and was for sale "Oh--that car needs a transmission--sure you want it?..I have the title,but we're gonna crush it today if you dont want it"...

I bought it for a bit over the scrap value,about $125 at the time...the guy even said he'd supply a good transmission if I ended up needing it for $75...I knew him pretty well,he gave me some good deals before.."Let me know if you get it going",he said--" I wont have that spare transmission for long probably"..

When I got it home,it only took about a half hour of poking around to figure out why the transmission wasn't acting right..a call to the local Buick dealer told me a new switch was "unavailable" and the parts guy said "last one we sold 5 years ago was $70 !--I'd try a junkyard''..

My friend ,who was better at electrical & wiring than I was,had it jerry rigged in no time, to two push button momentary switches I mounted on the drivers side arm rest..push one button,it downshifted it,pushing the other button changed the pitch on the torque converter...

Now I could hold the switch pitch button down and fry the tires like nothing,and downshift into passing gear at the push of a button..:D

A few days after I got the car registered & insured I drove it by the scrapyard and did a sweet 300 foot one wheel peel smoke show with it,to show it off--and I think the guys jaw broke it hit the ground so hard..:rotfl:...
 
Back when I had a '66 Buick Electra 225,it had a TH400 with a switch pitch torque converter,that was operated by a switch that was activated by the throttle linkage,mounted on the carb..

That switch had been broken,and it caused the transmission to stay in the passing gear position and put the converter in its low pitch to increase the stall speed--this led to the car being scrapped,and the guy at the scrapyard told me when I asked if the car had a title and was for sale "Oh--that car needs a transmission--sure you want it?..I have the title,but we're gonna crush it today if you dont want it"...

I bought it for a bit over the scrap value,about $125 at the time...the guy even said he'd supply a good transmission if I ended up needing it for $75...I knew him pretty well,he gave me some good deals before.."Let me know if you get it going",he said--" I wont have that spare transmission for long probably"..

When I got it home,it only took about a half hour of poking around to figure out why the transmission wasn't acting right..a call to the local Buick dealer told me a new switch was "unavailable" and the parts guy said "last one we sold 5 years ago was $70 !--I'd try a junkyard''..

My friend ,who was better at electrical & wiring than I was,had it jerry rigged in no time, to two push button momentary switches I mounted on the drivers side arm rest..push one button,it downshifted it,pushing the other button changed the pitch on the torque converter...

Now I could hold the switch pitch button down and fry the tires like nothing,and downshift into passing gear at the push of a button..:D

A few days after I got the car registered & insured I drove it by the scrapyard and did a sweet 300 foot one wheel peel smoke show with it,to show it off--and I think the guys jaw broke it hit the ground so hard..:rotfl:...
Nice! I don't know where the switch is but there's no detent cable so I assume it has one... I just rebuilt the holley carb n tuned it to find I don't have a balanced flex plate so that's now on the docket but I'd like to get er running smooth even if u so pull the combo this spring. Just an OCD thing I guess :cool:
 
The square body's had the TH400 detent switch rigged up on a bracket above the gas pedal...

The only Chevy v8's that need a balance weight on the flex plate or flywheel are the 400 small block and 454...I dont know if the LS engines used externally balanced crankshafts--but it you have either of the above engines,I wouldn't run one for long with the wrong flex plate on it,it'll wipe out things quickly like bearings and motor mounts..
 
The square body's had the TH400 detent switch rigged up on a bracket above the gas pedal...

The only Chevy v8's that need a balance weight on the flex plate or flywheel are the 400 small block and 454...I dont know if the LS engines used externally balanced crankshafts--but it you have either of the above engines,I wouldn't run one for long with the wrong flex plate on it,it'll wipe out things quickly like bearings and motor mounts..
Yea I'm pretty sure the ls engines are internal but yea this is the best urs ran therefore the first I knew of the Flywheel issue. It's already ordered :waytogo:
 
The square body's had the TH400 detent switch rigged up on a bracket above the gas pedal...

The only Chevy v8's that need a balance weight on the flex plate or flywheel are the 400 small block and 454...I dont know if the LS engines used externally balanced crankshafts--but it you have either of the above engines,I wouldn't run one for long with the wrong flex plate on it,it'll wipe out things quickly like bearings and motor mounts..

400sbc and 454bbc each take there own weight flywheel .

and yes gas pedal switch under the dash . single orange wire .
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom