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front 10 bolt wheel bearing

Okay, so it doesnt' have to be that smooth then. I took the picture with my cell phone and it didn't look all that fuzzy on there, but it does here. I'll work on it some today if I get a chance. Maybe I won't have to get a new one. After I get as smooth as I can I will post a clear picture of what it looks like and yall can inspect it and tell me if it's a go or no-go. I just don't want to put another bearing on there and have it sieze up too.
 
Was there alot of grit and dirt in that grease? If so, replace both of the bearings and inner races that sit inside the hub. That pic just appears to be straight up mud in there, with a little bit of grease mixed in.

And figure out why water/mud is getting in there and fix it.
 
It does look like mud in the pic, but it looks like rust in real life. I didn't notice any excessive grit, moisture, dirt, mud, etc. I can't say that I've ever had the rotor off that side before. I know I should have been greasing the bearings every year, but I suck okay. What can I say? Just recently I started hearing a growling sound and knew it was more than my tires. I knew I had a ball joint going bad too, so I jacked up that wheel and tried to lift the tire like you would if you wanted to test for a bad ball joint. The wheel moved all over the place (back and forth, not up and down) and I realized that the spindle nuts had come loose again. I took the locking hub out and tightened the nuts, setting the preload on the inner one like you're supposed to. It seemed that the outer one was super tight like it needs to be, but the inner one was a little loose. After they were tight, I shook the tire again and saw that the lower ball joint was indeed shot. I took the rotor/hub off to get the axle shaft out so I could get to the ball joint and that's when I found this nice surprise.
 
Since the bearing was seized to the spindle you need to make sure the bearing race in the rear of the wheel hub has not spun. If the bearing race has spun then you'll either need to dutch fit (this is done by making a bunch of punch marks which raises some material so the race will press tight again using lock-tite as you reassemble) the race or get another wheel hub. Regardless you need to replace BOTH that bearing AND race at the least. Also, usually the way water gets into the spindle and wheel bearings is from missing or damaged stub shaft seals (you will need an SBK1 kit to repair that if needed, cost about $20.00 per side).
 
progress

I made some progress on this during the weekend. I replaced the bad ball joint and the wheel bearing and grease seal in the hub to replace the one that was damaged. The bearing went in as usual but the grease seal was really tight. It would be hard to get back out without destroying the seal. Is this okay? It wasn't like that on the hub on the other side. That seal just popped right in.

When I tried to put the hub/rotor back on the spindle, it wouldn't slide on. I'm not going to force it on there either. I sanded the spindle down some more and this is what it looks like now:

20100918144606.jpg


Today I will try to fix it up some more with my 1" belt sander and if that doesn't work, I will be buying a used one.
 
what is that ring that is still on there? or is it just the way the picture looks.

would be nice if you cold get a much clearer picture of this thing too, after seeing this pic, even in it's fuzzy state, this thing looks to need either alot more cleaning or even go ahead and replace it, but it's hard to tell from fuzziness. :tongue1:
 
For some reason my phone will not take a clear picture when I'm right out in the sun like that. I think that ring is just part of the spindle, although it does look like a seperate part in the crappy pic. You know the camera adds ten pounds.
 
Actually, that does look like a seperate piece now that you mention it. Hmmm... I'll have to check that out.
 
i can't remember when i had mine apart, but i don't remember a section sticking out like that, the ring thing, and if it looks like it's removable, it's probably a previous bearing race perhaps that shouldn't be on there.

Damn, i have an axleshaft that needs replaced, now you're making me want to go out there and start tearing things apart, just to see this thing :doah:
 
well after searching through a few sites, i guess there is a lip that is there on the inside, it just looks from your picture that it is removeable like an old piece that wasn't removed, i think after looking at your pic some more, it's the way the shadows are on it.

4578_12.jpg
 
What you're saying makes sense. I'm such a dumb butt that I had the other side torn down all the way to the spindle at the same time, but then put that side all the way back together instead of keeping it apart so I could compare the two side by side.
 
lets' see if this works :tongue1:

and if i remember right, the seal does go on somewhat snug, it's a seal, needs to seal in the greese, and dirt/water & crap out.

4578_12.jpg
 
Thanks for the picture. I think the seal and/or the bearing is just getting caught on the rough spot on the spindle where that pitting is. Do you think it would hurt anything to tap the hub gently :whistle: with a rubber mallet or something until the bearing seats? I just think it's strange that the one on the other side slid on without much trouble. I made sure to label the hubs as to which side they came off of and put them back on the same side. Maybe I should swap them and see if that will make a difference.
 
andyblack said:
I made some progress on this during the weekend. I replaced the bad ball joint and the wheel bearing and grease seal in the hub to replace the one that was damaged. The bearing went in as usual but the grease seal was really tight. It would be hard to get back out without destroying the seal. Is this okay? It wasn't like that on the hub on the other side. That seal just popped right in.

When I tried to put the hub/rotor back on the spindle, it wouldn't slide on. I'm not going to force it on there either. I sanded the spindle down some more and this is what it looks like now:



Today I will try to fix it up some more with my 1" belt sander and if that doesn't work, I will be buying a used one.
Click to expand...


Did you replace the seal on the other side? Be sure to add some grease to the seal cup that slides over the spindle shoulder. A new seal should be tight, but not impossible.

I would be careful with a belt sander.

Hitting with a mallet will not hurt anything, but dont hit the lugs and don't go too crazy on it.
 
Look at the part of the spindle that the seal goes over to seal to. If the edge of it is real sharp, take some fine sandpaper and put a slight taper on that edge.
Not on the sealing surface, just "break" that sharp edge to give the seal something to slide up one.

And put grease where it slides on.
 
90'K5 said:
Did you replace the seal on the other side? Be sure to add some grease to the seal cup that slides over the spindle shoulder. A new seal should be tight, but not impossible.

I would be careful with a belt sander.
Click to expand...

I just reused the old seal since it seemed to be working good. Should you replace it everytime you take the hub off? I did put some grease on the new one. Maybe I'll put some more.
 
ok i think i understand now what you are saying, you try to put the bearing over the spindle and let it sit where it normally rides, but it's a tight fit and won't totally sit flush up against the shoulder...

run some more sandpaper over the spindle surface, it shouldn't be super loose, but then again it shouldn't take any hammering to get it to slid on. Also when tightening the spindle nuts and torquing everything down, it will seat that bearing anyways, will just be a paid to remove the next time you service them.

and yes, you should replace those seals everytime, even if they are still working, or look good, it's cheap insurance to prevent having to tear everything down again.
 
Yesterday I took tried to put the hub on again and it wouldn't go on all the way for anything. It was hard to pull off too. So I took the driver's side apart to see what was different. I found that the inner wheel bearing from that side would slide onto the spindle that I've been working on with no problem, so I measured the I.D. of the bearing I had gotten from O'Reilly. It measured 1.900. Then I mesured the bearing off the driver's side - it was 1.950. That's fifty thousandths bigger. The one that fits is a Timken. I don't know the brand of the smaller one. I thought that O'Reilly had done me O'Wrongley again, so I went to Advance Auto and looked at the same bearing there. It was from National/Federal Mogul and it too measured 1.900.

What should I do? .050 seems to be a big enough difference that the bearing won't slide up onto the spindle where it needs to be. Does anyone know the proper I.D. for the inner wheel bearing? Both the one that doesn't fit (National) and the one that does fit (Timken) are made in the U.S.A. I don't know about the one I got from O'Reilly. What should I do?
 
So the driver's side bearing is an old bearing the will fit on both spindles. Does the new bearing that doesnt fit the passenger side fit on the driver side?
 
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