3 mo to Moab!
hahahaha. Well, what's not on that list is regearing the 14 bolt and putting in a locker, cutting spring perches and rewelding, and buying 5 new wheels.
This all won't be done by this Blazer Bash. But will for the next one.
CK5
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Front Brake (8 lug conversion) question
- Thread starter Phil513
- Start date
hahahaha. Well, what's not on that list is regearing the 14 bolt and putting in a locker, cutting spring perches and rewelding, and buying 5 new wheels.
This all won't be done by this Blazer Bash. But will for the next one.
If the jb7 uses a different mastercyl, be sure to get that also, so the mc has enough volume to do the deed.
It will work with the current master cylinder. I've done it before.
Martin
Martin
*whew*
+1 on that, had no issues as long as it's working properly
I use the stock one on mine also. JB7 front, JB6 rear. Now 1 ton D60 front, JB6 rear. It felt different at first but I don't even notice it now. It didn't feel bad, it just felt different.
Exactly.
Martin
Martin
But you have granny gear and low range! Isn't that pretty close to having "park?"
It's pretty close, but I wouldn't feel comfortable walking away from it on a hill. lol. I guess I can get a set of wheel chocks. hahaha.
That's why I went to the 'modern' 14b - aam 10.5 Didn't want to chance a problem w/ a driveshaft and or having to change a tire on uneven ground and have that heavy ****er roll on me. Had a Caprice fall off a jack once... Was not awesome... Infact I jacked up my previous jimmy in my driveway (testing out hi-lift) and it rolled off sideways...
Definitely an OH SH!T moment.
I have no park brake.
I wouldn't mind having one, but not for safety reasons, so much as convenience reasons. I believe a line lock would be sufficient for my needs.
Martin
I wouldn't mind having one, but not for safety reasons, so much as convenience reasons. I believe a line lock would be sufficient for my needs.
Martin
*cough*van axle*cough*
Nobody ever believes me that removable drums are awesome. If you don't need the self-cleaning feature of discs it sure seems like an easier way to achieve awesomeness.
There is nothing wrong with keeping drum brakes.
Martin
Martin
I would have done drums but the price of a newer axle was about the same - and once doing the brakes on them probably ended up the same overall cost. Those damn drums are pricey now.
90 bucks for a rear drum on my '82 k2500 --glad I didn't crack one when I had to hammer it off ,after my e-brake cable froze in the on position !...bad enough it costed me almost 75 bucks just for new cables (front,intermediate,both rears)..
E-brakes are the biggest pain in the ass since diaper rash...
I have yet to see one that works well,doesn't rust up in a year,or the cables last long enough to pass two yearly inspections...and does not SUCK to replace...the new disc brake trucks with "mini-drum" e-brakes are even worse...why cant they invent one that works,lasts,and is simple to replace ?..
I just finished putting the 2 rear e-brake cables on my truck today...took me from 2 pm till 9 pm,what a miserable F-N ballbuster...no one could do it for me before later next week,and I cant stand driving with an expired sticker..
I think its easier to swap a motor than replace all the e-brake cables..
..I've done an engine swap faster !..
I had to take all the shoes off at least twice ,one side,the drivers side,I did last, I got all back together,only to find the e-brake cable slid off the hook on the link inside the shoes,and it was jammed behind the brake shoe...by then it was getting dark any mosquitoes were eating me alive..it's been maybe 20 years since I fooled with drum brakes,and did NOT miss them one bit..hated them then--hate them more now!..
Also I think I screwed up how the cables bolt to the backing plates,there are two tin things where the bolts go on to the cable,and one is crimped to the cable housing,the other isn't--I put the free floating one on the inside of the backing plate on one side,thinking thats how it was supposed to go--then when I take off the other original cable--both tin plate things were on the back side of the backing plate..
So I put both tin plates on the back side,and that cable feels like its binding,the other side with one inside and outside the backing plate works much more freely..
As long as the dam thing works I'm not taking apart a 4th time..
I also had to "extend" the front cable where you adjust it by adding threaded rod with a coupler nut,and could not put the intermediate cable in all 3 of those wire loop guides in the frame,it was way too short to reach the front cable..--don't know why they dont fit right--they only listed one number for the front,intermediate and rear cables for the 131.5" WB..doesn't surprise me nothing I buy or fix ever turns out right,or works without fudgery....
Next vehicle I own that needs e-brake cables is getting SOLD, "as-is"....seriously...it was a major factor in my decision to get rid of my Ford Contour...
E-brakes are the biggest pain in the ass since diaper rash...
I have yet to see one that works well,doesn't rust up in a year,or the cables last long enough to pass two yearly inspections...and does not SUCK to replace...the new disc brake trucks with "mini-drum" e-brakes are even worse...why cant they invent one that works,lasts,and is simple to replace ?..
I just finished putting the 2 rear e-brake cables on my truck today...took me from 2 pm till 9 pm,what a miserable F-N ballbuster...no one could do it for me before later next week,and I cant stand driving with an expired sticker..
I think its easier to swap a motor than replace all the e-brake cables..
..I've done an engine swap faster !..I had to take all the shoes off at least twice ,one side,the drivers side,I did last, I got all back together,only to find the e-brake cable slid off the hook on the link inside the shoes,and it was jammed behind the brake shoe...by then it was getting dark any mosquitoes were eating me alive..it's been maybe 20 years since I fooled with drum brakes,and did NOT miss them one bit..hated them then--hate them more now!..
Also I think I screwed up how the cables bolt to the backing plates,there are two tin things where the bolts go on to the cable,and one is crimped to the cable housing,the other isn't--I put the free floating one on the inside of the backing plate on one side,thinking thats how it was supposed to go--then when I take off the other original cable--both tin plate things were on the back side of the backing plate..
So I put both tin plates on the back side,and that cable feels like its binding,the other side with one inside and outside the backing plate works much more freely..
As long as the dam thing works I'm not taking apart a 4th time..
I also had to "extend" the front cable where you adjust it by adding threaded rod with a coupler nut,and could not put the intermediate cable in all 3 of those wire loop guides in the frame,it was way too short to reach the front cable..--don't know why they dont fit right--they only listed one number for the front,intermediate and rear cables for the 131.5" WB..doesn't surprise me nothing I buy or fix ever turns out right,or works without fudgery..
..Next vehicle I own that needs e-brake cables is getting SOLD, "as-is"....seriously...it was a major factor in my decision to get rid of my Ford Contour...
90 bucks for a rear drum on my '82 k2500 --glad I didn't crack one when I had to hammer it off ,after my e-brake cable froze in the on position !...bad enough it costed me almost 75 bucks just for new cables (front,intermediate,both rears)..
E-brakes are the biggest pain in the ass since diaper rash...
I have yet to see one that works well,doesn't rust up in a year,or the cables last long enough to pass two yearly inspections...and does not SUCK to replace...the new disc brake trucks with "mini-drum" e-brakes are even worse...why cant they invent one that works,lasts,and is simple to replace ?..
I just finished putting the 2 rear e-brake cables on my truck today...took me from 2 pm till 9 pm,what a miserable F-N ballbuster...no one could do it for me before later next week,and I cant stand driving with an expired sticker..
I think its easier to swap a motor than replace all the e-brake cables..
I had to take all the shoes off at least twice ,one side,the drivers side,I did last, I got all back together,only to find the e-brake cable slid off the hook on the link inside the shoes,and it was jammed behind the brake shoe...by then it was getting dark any mosquitoes were eating me alive..it's been maybe 20 years since I fooled with drum brakes,and did NOT miss them one bit..hated them then--hate them more now!..
Also I think I screwed up how the cables bolt to the backing plates,there are two tin things where the bolts go on to the cable,and one is crimped to the cable housing,the other isn't--I put the free floating one on the inside of the backing plate on one side,thinking thats how it was supposed to go--then when I take off the other original cable--both tin plate things were on the back side of the backing plate..
So I put both tin plates on the back side,and that cable feels like its binding,the other side with one inside and outside the backing plate works much more freely..
As long as the dam thing works I'm not taking apart a 4th time..
I also had to "extend" the front cable where you adjust it by adding threaded rod with a coupler nut,and could not put the intermediate cable in all 3 of those wire loop guides in the frame,it was way too short to reach the front cable..--don't know why they dont fit right--they only listed one number for the front,intermediate and rear cables for the 131.5" WB..doesn't surprise me nothing I buy or fix ever turns out right,or works without fudgery..
Next vehicle I own that needs e-brake cables is getting SOLD, "as-is"....seriously...it was a major factor in my decision to get rid of my Ford Contour...
I have no idea how you managed to stumble across such difficulties. I've set up e-brakes on a number of trucks (including square-bodies) without finding it particularly difficult.
Certainly easier than swapping an engine.
