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Front dana 60 3/4 ton brake conversion

RECKLESS_TRENT

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Been thinking about doing this for about a yr now. Hate the brakes on our dana 60. Big, heavy, dont work very good, have to gride them to run most 15in wheels, pain in the ass to work on. Wondering if anyone has done this and what they think of it.

https://lugnut4x4.com/product/dana-60-front-34-ton-disc-brake-conversion-kit/
 
what do you mean they don't work good ?

you still running 1/2 or 3/4 ton master ?

and grind the hell out of them = you got the wrong backspace rims for 15"

should be running no more than 2.5-3" for no grind required.

and even 3/4 ton stuff needs little grind on 15" rims.
 
what do you mean they don't work good ?

you still running 1/2 or 3/4 ton master ?

and grind the hell out of them = you got the wrong backspace rims for 15"

should be running no more than 2.5-3" for no grind required.

and even 3/4 ton stuff needs little grind on 15" rims.

They dont work as good as the brakes on the 3/4 ton axle we had in it. Even with 3in backspace still have to grind them and its a pain in the ass. Still the 3/4 ton master.
 
k20 master = 1.125 bore
k30 master = 1.3125 bore

much more fluid volume.

but do as you wish .

I did 1 ton swap years ago in my k10 and did hydrobost/master from same doner truck . did the disk rear conversion also and bypass stock prop valve on front crossmemenber and did willwood adjustable in rear line .

stop on a dime and get lots of change back every time . 38" tsl swampers also .
 
k20 master = 1.125 bore
k30 master = 1.3125 bore

much more fluid volume.

But do as you wish .

I did 1 ton swap years ago in my k10 and did hydrobost/master from same doner truck . Did the disk rear conversion also and bypass stock prop valve on front crossmemenber and did willwood adjustable in rear line .

Stop on a dime and get lots of change back every time . 38" tsl swampers also .
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You won't improve your braking performance by downgrading parts.

As for grinding the calipers, it won't hurt anything.

Martin
 
Them smaller brakes stopped bigger tires better than these dana 60 brakes do.
 
Disc's or drums in the rear? Its not just all front brakes. Masters are cheap, put the correct one on and call it done.
 
Them smaller brakes stopped bigger tires better than these dana 60 brakes do.

if your still running 3/4 ton master and boster then your comparing apples to oranges ...... true 1ton master has bigger bore = more fluid to the bigger caliper pistion of the dana 60 .

the smaller 3/4 ton master is taking lots of travel of pedal to fill up a caliper that's much bigger than it was designed to fill with the same travel at pedal .

give us more info / specs of the rig .
 
There are no rear brakes, no proportioning valve, no booster. Just stock k20 master cylinder and both ports from it run into a t to a single line that runs down to where the proportioning valve was and then another t to go the rubber lines down to the calipers.

Guess after the dune party if my bf still has a job we will look into getting a k30 master cylinder.

You have to keep in mind that we are not interested in doing this swap just to get better brakes, there are other reasons too
 
Well, if you have no rear brakes, then you will probably have poor brakes no matter what master you use.

Hydroboost is not going to help a whole lot either........
 
Well, if you have no rear brakes, then you will probably have poor brakes no matter what master you use.

Hydroboost is not going to help a whole lot either........


Lol you said exactly what I was gonna say. Brakes should be 60%front 40% rear. You are missing 40% of your stopping power.
 
Why no rear brakes Leslie? I know that's something people do in mud trucks, but I've never really understood it as its really not saving that much weight....
 

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