What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Front disk brakes??

Rear wheel lockup on a non loaded pickup is just a fact of life. If you get it so the rears stop locking when empty the brakes will suck when it's loaded.
If you install an adjustable proportioning valve and get it dialed in empty just remember to dial it back out when loaded or towing.
 
Ok ill check out the fronts first. The rears only lock when you really step on it and when I let off they let off so I don't think they are sticking. Thanks for helping out guys.
 
ChrisPerry said:
Rear wheel lockup on a non loaded pickup is just a fact of life. If you get it so the rears stop locking when empty the brakes will suck when it's loaded.
If you install an adjustable proportioning valve and get it dialed in empty just remember to dial it back out when loaded or towing.
Click to expand...

That's what I was wondering. Ill go ahead and check the front brakes but ill prob be adding a prop valve. Didn't they come factory with one?
 
They came with a valve but it is more of a safety thing. If you lose pressure in either the front or rear brakes ( break a line or pop a wheels cylinder) it blocks all fluid to the broken part of the system so you don't lose all your brakes.
 
Iirc the k20/k30 had a load-sensing prop valve that allowed more fluid to flow with weight in the bed.
 
Z71paramedic said:
Iirc the k20/k30 had a load-sensing prop valve that allowed more fluid to flow with weight in the bed.
Click to expand...
Yeah that system was not available on k10's and when the vehicle wasn't messed with it worked pretty good.
I had a C20 that had perfect braking empty or loaded.
I have had some that were lifted or just messed with and the brakes did not work very well.
I do have that system in case you want to retrofit it in your truck.
 
Ok even though we figured out I have disks lol, here are the pics my axles.

2012-04-18172114.jpg

front axle obviously

2012-04-18172133.jpg

pass front leaf

2012-04-18172140.jpg

driver front leaf

2012-04-18172244.jpg

rear axle...ignore vent and leaky covers on both axles...this weekend project

2012-04-18172253.jpg

pass rear leaf

2012-04-18172309.jpg

driver rear leaf.

Ok so what can you tell me about my leafs?
Front-is that an add a leaf or just a leaf from another pack? Also should they arch upward like that??
 
The stock front springs for these trucks are what's called negative arched. They arch upward instead of down like the rears.

Yours appear to have an add a leaf installed. On top of that they look sacked out. No real curve left to the springs just straight lines from axle to bushings. Not sure what your plans are for the truck but it looks like it could benefit from a set of 2" lift front springs, specifically Tuff Country EZ rides for best results.
 
Ok then. The back rides fine so id prob just do blocks to lvl it out.
I guess the front springs being toast would explain why the front rides so freekin stiff??
 
Add a leafs are typically never soft either. Looks like you are running 33" tires too. The 2" lift springs will be good for those. I wouldn't doubt if the truck sits level after just installing front springs. May not need blocks in the back at all, but wont know till it's all together.
 
Ya right now the rear sits about 2" lower than the front measuring from tire to fender edge.

Could I use 4" springs without having driveshaft issues?
 
Lawrence0485 said:
Ya right now the rear sits about 2" lower than the front measuring from tire to fender edge.

Could I use 4" springs without having driveshaft issues?
Click to expand...

Maybe not, the front wheel well are cut higher than the rear openings. Can't get accurate measurements by measuring from top of tire to bottom edge of wheel well lip.
 
Well my measurement may be wrong, but when the truck is on lvl ground it Definetly sits lower in the rear. Do you guys think I can get away with 4" springs in the front and the shackle flip on stock springs on the rear?
 
Never measure to the fender opening. The fronts are cut open higher than the rear from the factory. Makes it look lower in the back. Measure from the ground (level ground) to the pinch weld/body seam under the rocker panel. Or the flat, level parts of the frame would probably work best considering it looks like your body mounts/bushings might be shot too. The bed doesn't really line up with the cab.

Aaaaaw, 4x beat me to it....
 
Lol yep needs body mounts and the driver side front corner of the bed had something heavy dropped on it and is bent.. I plan on pulling the bolts out in that corner and using the crane at work to pull up on the bed sliding a few shims between the bed and the frame to "fix" that issue. I'm gonna do the body mounts first though.
 
Shackle flip in the rear is the way to go. And your rear springs look like they are in good shape. Aside from possible bushing replacement, but the springs themselves look good.
 
Yep gotta replace those bushings too. Ill pull the rear springs and rebuild them. But on the front, 4" springs with stock front driveshaft=issues?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom