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front drive shaft grinding with a 4 inch lift??

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nickdubrule41

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hey iv got an 89 jimmy with a 4 inch lift and 33's my problem is that the front drive shaft is on to much of an angle and grings when you put it in 4 wheel.i tryed lowering the transfer case like 1.5 inch but it still grinds. i was thinking about a custom shaft, but maby one of you have a better or cheeper, thanks alot,nick
 
When you lower the t-case by moving the spacers on the crossmember it actually makes the front driveshaft angle worse.
 
ya i noticed that it made the angle worse but it helps the rear .looks like it angles the shaft more on the front tho bcz you are just dropping the case not the motor mounts ect to even it out. it sux i have to lower it like that but i was eating u joints on the rear shaft untill i lowered the t case. what have you all dont with your 4 inch lifted k5's. and to answer the 1st reply,it looks like the upper u joints are binding up witch makes a clunking sound that you can hear and feel under your feet. thaks for the help nick
 
did you grind the bump stops off? there are 4 little nubbys you can grind down to get a tad more clearance... i'll see if i have pics.
 
I had the same problem. I bought a Transfer case lowering kit....I then lowered the crossmember, but used custom spacers between the TC and the crossmember, lifting the TC back up to it's original position. This gave me room between my driveshaft and crossmember.
 
I doubt your driveshaft is binding with 4" of lift.
I think what you think is your driveshaft is actually your t-case. try adjusting your t-case linkage.
 
it is also very possible you have stripped your splines on your shaft. 4 inches shouldent cause any shaft issues
 
CV limiter nubs

Yeah, I noticed the nubs are really close on my front CV w/ 4" lift. I'll need to whip out the air tools at some point.
 
scubahard said:
I had the same problem. I bought a Transfer case lowering kit....I then lowered the crossmember, but used custom spacers between the TC and the crossmember, lifting the TC back up to it's original position. This gave me room between my driveshaft and crossmember.
Click to expand...


That is exactly what I did. :cool1:
 
Lowering transfer case

rcamacho said:
Yeah, I noticed the nubs are really close on my front CV w/ 4" lift. I'll need to whip out the air tools at some point.
Click to expand...

Hi Guys,
I got a used kit given to me (Rugged trail), we think by the cast blocks) and I lifted my rear so far and at 35 mph and 65mph and decelerating I have vibrations and it aint the Beach Boys Good Vibrations.
(With a busted finger I'll try to lower the T-case today)
Rough Country support told me to lower my T-Case 1.5" with spacers but I rater use steel block.
They also showed grinding 1/8" off the "ears" of the front drive shaft. (Provided I can get the blasted steering arm off)

I also noticed lifting 4" in the rear has my driveshaft way too far out of my transfer case for my liking.

Dave
 
With my 4" TC springs, and the K5 on a lift allowing total unloading of the front suspension, my stock CV would bind, barely. I took it off and clearanced the ears until it would rotate smoothly. I didn't take much material off.
 
mouse said:
With my 4" TC springs, and the K5 on a lift allowing total unloading of the front suspension, my stock CV would bind, barely. I took it off and clearanced the ears until it would rotate smoothly. I didn't take much material off.
Click to expand...

Hi Mouse thanks for the reply bare the typos as I still have a chomped up finger. Glad to see the reply hit my inbox and that it works.

4 Of us looked at the instructions on how they lower the TC and said no dam way. So to save some $ and see if it solves the problem I cut 4 2.5" x 3" 3/4" thick peices of that heavy nylon they make restaurant cutting boards out of so 2 stacked on each side should bring me down exactly 1.5" and be a solid surface to clamp on to.(Later to be replaced with steel block) I measured my rear slipyoke and it is in the area of 1.5" out of the TC so the whole thing seems to make sense so far.

Now grinding 1/8" off the front shaft seemed to be asking for trouble so why can't I just put in the pitch shims when I mount my front springs? Seemed to make more since to all of us and that if I ever need a shaft a stock shaft will do.

Thanks:wink1:
Dave
 
thats weird...i was running 8" lift and i didnt have to grind my front cv or anything...
 
shaft grinding with a 4 inch lift??

muddybuddy said:
thats weird...i was running 8" lift and i didnt have to grind my front cv or anything...
Click to expand...

Update, so far so good. Went to the body shop and do more computer work for them and while waiting jumped in an open bay and did my lower the T-case trick with 1.5" nylon block in about 20 minutes.
Drove the truck home and no more vibrations at 35mph but still need to give it the highway test.
The guys at the performance shop never seen anyone do what I did with the nylon stuff but thought I came up with a good idea and are waiting to see how it works out. All I know is that it was a cheap way to test if the drive angle was wrong and it seems to have worked. I even put the stock spacers back on under the crossmember. (Didn't have time to take pictures because of the rain but will.

Also go a tip at the performance shop about drilling out the cone washers on the steering arm. I have just the set of bits in mind and once that arm is off the the rest of the truck goes up.
Then you guys can teach me all about this "shackle sheet".

In the mean time the body shop was gunning to go to paint my truck because of all the computer work I have done for them but I noticed some rust on the inner rockers and want to replace them now along with a body lift before the truck gets any paint work.

Hey it works they get smoking fast computers with all the toys and they make my toy look good. (I mean these guys are loving having a digital camera and and being able to Email and import before and after pictures of the work they do)

Dave
 
ok... dont mean to hijack. but i havent grinded the 1/8" off of mine yet. is it at the front of the driveshaft or the near the t-case? lost my directions on that.
 
shaft grinding with a 4 inch lift??

SUPERSUB87 said:
ok... dont mean to hijack. but i havent grinded the 1/8" off of mine yet. is it at the front of the driveshaft or the near the t-case? lost my directions on that.
Click to expand...

By all means jump right in the mud with us, I'm new to this also.
Ok here is what I have read from Rough Country [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Part # [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]1145/1245[/FONT][/FONT]
Technical Assistance - (901) 285-9000 Page 2​
[FONT=TimesNewRoman,Bold]
FRONT CONSTANT VELOCITY U-JOINT STOPS MODIFICATION INSTRUCTIONS​
[/FONT]
The stops on the front cv u-joint and the stops on the front drive shaft must be modified to obtain maximum suspension
travel on all 4” and 6” lift systems (see diagram below). These stops are designed to prevent the drive shaft from
contacting the road surface in the event of a u-joint failure at the front-end housing.
Remove the front drive shaft assembly from the vehicle. Use a
grinder or other suitable tool and remove the amount of material
needed to gain ample u-joint clearance at the drive shaft stop.
(Remove as little material as possible). About 1/8” of material.
With the grinding completed, reinstall the drive shaft and check
the stop clearance by turning the drive shaft.

Davehttp://www.roughcountry.com/install/145S.pdf​
 
I dont think putting shims in the front springs will help the angle of the cv and it will change your castor, (please correct me I cant remember if its castor or camber) but anyways, it will screw the steering up a little.

as far as the steering arm goes I dont think drilling the cone washers would be a good idea unless you replace the studs also, which your suppose to but if you want to use the old studs drilling the cone washers would prolly mess up the threads. I used a bfh and pounded the snot out of it to loosen it up and then the cone washers will come out pretty easily.
 
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