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Front Driveshaft Idea???

G

garyweak84

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Topeka, KS
I need a longer front shaft since I put 52's up front. My double cardan is nice and tight. but the main shaft is to short. I found an 88-94ish ifs truck front shaft that uses the same S44/3RL joints but with a single joint where it connects to the tcase. The ifs truck front shaft is also larger diameter. My questions is do you see any adverse effects running the ifs front shaft on the double cardan and have the main shaft shortened to fit my needs. The issue I believe is the ifs front shaft has the same pivot travel with a single joint as the double cardan has with two. Will potentially having more travel on the front joint of the double cardan cause issues? This is on a 90 v1500 suburban and rarely gets driven over 45-50 mph in 4wd for extended periods of time. Mostly around town if it snows and trips out into the mountains playing around. If you look at the pictures the stock front shaft has stops built into the main shaft end yoke where as the ifs front shaft doesn't. Thanks for the help in advance guys!!

2013-03-23 15.08.48.jpg

2013-03-23 15.10.00.jpg
 
The stock front shafts are usually built with 2"x.120" tubing. If that's what you have, the do-it-yourself route is to cut the shaft and sleeve the inside with some 1-3/4" OD tubing. I did that on the front driveshaft on my tow rig, works fine up to 80 MPH anyway :thumb:.

I did add a length of 2"x.120" over the 1-3/4" tube, it does add strength but it also makes it almost impossible to tell that you messed with it.
 
the longer shaft about 3" diameter and i figured with it being longer therefore cheaper to cut down vs lengthen. im just trying to see if this works since the other shaft is zero cost to to me. i plan to have cut down and balanced by an actual driveline shop. thanks. Gary
 
I can see the IFS shaft not having a slip yoke being a problem. The front diff doesn't move in reference to the transfer case so it's a fixed length shaft. One solid front axles the diff moves needing a slip yoke to compress and extend to meet this movement as the diff travels up and down.
 
it has the same slip joint as a solid front axle truck hense the fixed mount on the tcase side of the shaft. therefore needing a slip joint to be installed.
 
Well I answered my own question. I just realized the ifs shaft doesn't have the pivot ball connection on the end since it's a single joint yoke. I did how ever find out that the slip yoke from the ifs truck which has an S44 joint fits on the older shaft. So at least that's an upgrade in its self. the stock 1310 joint at the pinion is only 3.219 x 1.062 were as the S44 joint is 3.625 (same as 1350) x 1.125. Just need a bigger pinion yoke to take advantage of the larger joints. At what point is the stock diameter of 2" on the front shaft the weak link? Should it be sleeved on the outside with larger DOM to add strength when lengthening? Thanks for all the help guys. Just trying to think outside the box on this beater!! Gary

By the way here is the two shafts side by side for reference.

2013-03-23 23.24.34.jpg
 
FYI, I don't think any solid front axle ever had a 3R joint from the factory and I've never seen an aftermarket one either.

Unfortunately, unless I'm wrong, I think that kills your idea.
 
You are correct but a S44 to 1350 joint is available and very close in strength. So by switching the slip yoke and buying a 1350 pinion yoke (which will get used when upgrading to a 1350 CV long slip front shaft) you could effectively upgrade the front shaft from the 1310 while you have it lengthened. Just an idea. I don't like the thought of putting even a small amount of money into something with 1310 joints. Maybe I'm just weird:dunno:
 
so what's the best to use for tubing? should a larger diameter or thickness be used? I'm not sure when I'll upgrade to a true 1350 cv with longer slip so i want to make this last as long as possible. thanks. Gary
 
I started with one off a 88 up truck, had it re tubed. I like that the slip is off the transfer case. Had it on the truck for a couple years now with no issues. I did however have to grind a fair bit of clearance though.

12138_221516356152_2134975_n.jpg


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Bowtie85 is that a single joint at the tcase? if so did you swap the flange for the tcase to the opposite end of the shaft?
 
Yep its a single joint, If i recall thats the way it was when I got it. The other end was re tubed.
 
Bowtie85, have you noticed any issues only having the single joint at the tcase instead of the factory double cardan? Does it limit suspension travel? You said you had to do grinding, what exactly did you grind? thanks

Gary
 
That looks like a pretty good idea. Should work using our style shafts as well. I wonder what the long term durablility is with the heat from welding it all. It's only time right!!!
 
garyweak84 said:
That looks like a pretty good idea. Should work using our style shafts as well. I wonder what the long term durablility is with the heat from welding it all. It's only time right!!!
Click to expand...

I'm thinking heat the piss out of the thing with a torch before welding, then burn it in hot. Then take the torch back to it and slowly let it cool.
 
garyweak84 said:
Bowtie85, have you noticed any issues only having the single joint at the tcase instead of the factory double cardan? Does it limit suspension travel? You said you had to do grinding, what exactly did you grind? thanks

Gary
Click to expand...

Ground clearance on the yoke ears, ground a fair bit. Doesnt effect down travel either.

No issues either, its been beat on for 2 or 3 years now.
 
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