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Front driveshaft

Maybe a stupid question, but are you sure the C/V is binding or could it be hitting something like the cross-member or trans pan?

I pulled mine once to grind the stops down further, only to discover there were no witness marks on them. Then I could see where the C/V was rubbing the cross member under droop.
 
I know my front CV binds and like @doubletrouble mentioned, the CV needs serviced every few years. Mine is 1310 CV with a 1350 yoke on the axle. It would probably help the binding if I went to 1310 on the axle. 7700lbs truck, 40" tires, 5.13 gears, Magnum, and a 454 and the 1310 joints have held up fine. I've dropped the front off a ledge onto the front shaft and bent it where the splines and tube meet and I've bent a front leaf spring snow bashing.
 
Blue85 said:
Maybe a stupid question, but are you sure the C/V is binding or could it be hitting something like the cross-member or trans pan?

I pulled mine once to grind the stops down further, only to discover there were no witness marks on them. Then I could see where the C/V was rubbing the cross member under droop.
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Definitely binding. I made my crossmember and I can fit my hand between the driveshaft and the CM at full droop.
 
mrk5 said:
I know my front CV binds and like @doubletrouble mentioned, the CV needs serviced every few years. Mine is 1310 CV with a 1350 yoke on the axle. It would probably help the binding if I went to 1310 on the axle. 7700lbs truck, 40" tires, 5.13 gears, Magnum, and a 454 and the 1310 joints have held up fine. I've dropped the front off a ledge onto the front shaft and bent it where the splines and tube meet and I've bent a front leaf spring snow bashing.
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I’ll talk with them and see about going to a 1310 on the Tcase. I’m doubles 40s and 4.88. Mild built small block with a TH350
 
BattleBornK5 said:
I’ll talk with them and see about going to a 1310 on the Tcase. I’m doubles 40s and 4.88. Mild built small block with a TH350
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I had my shaft made by Tom Woods and it was thru a discussion with them that I ended up with the 1310 CV. Only reason I have the 1350 axle yoke is because the previous driveline shop I used messed up the order and put the wrong joint on the shaft; I had wanted 1410. At this point I would be okay with 1310 on the axle.
 
I have the t-woods offset joints and they work great but do have a vibration above 35 or so. Luckily I don’t do any snow/mud high speed 4-wheeling so it’s great fo me. I went to that setup because my 1350 cv bound up way before I tan out of droop just like you have found.
 
I've been considering going with a Tom Woods front drive shaft, to go with the additional travel I have gained from my new ORD springs. Having a shaft made that binds concerns me though.
I was wondering did they ask the following questions: the angle of the transfer case output, the angle of the front yoke, the length at drive height and the length at full droop?
Given these factors they should have been able to recommend the proper drive shaft.
 
mrk5 said:
I've thought about that offset joint but the high speed vibration concerns me.
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It definitely is a thing. I would have to come up with something different if I did hs4wd.
 
1410 or 1480 single joint would get the range you need . Seen guys doing this before . But the limiter is the pinion size even on a 60 .

Old post on pirate jess @ HAD sain yokes are limit on big joints you need flanges . And 32* is safe average all day for stuff like a 1410 .

Search high angle driveline jesse . He has been in rhe saft game a long time and tons of info he has posted over the years.
 
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cheavyk10 said:
I've been considering going with a Tom Woods front drive shaft, to go with the additional travel I have gained from my new ORD springs. Having a shaft made that binds concerns me though.
I was wondering did they ask the following questions: the angle of the transfer case output, the angle of the front yoke, the length at drive height and the length at full droop?
Given these factors they should have been able to recommend the proper drive shaft.
Click to expand...
My binding is on me. I really should limit strap the front springs. I know they are drooping out further than they should. I'm actually kinda surprised I haven't busted a shock. At the time I had the front shaft built I was more concerned about getting a driveshaft that was smooth at speed at ride height. Since it held up for 5 years, I just haven't done anything about it.
 
cheavyk10 said:
I've been considering going with a Tom Woods front drive shaft, to go with the additional travel I have gained from my new ORD springs. Having a shaft made that binds concerns me though.
I was wondering did they ask the following questions: the angle of the transfer case output, the angle of the front yoke, the length at drive height and the length at full droop?
Given these factors they should have been able to recommend the proper drive shaft.
Click to expand...

Yes they ask all those questions. It was me that probably made a mistake. I took angle measurements with it on jack stands and I was probably off a couple degrees. I knew it was going be close and that I would probably have to limit strap the diff but I didn’t realize I was going have to limit it as much as I was going have to. I just bit the bullet and am getting a BAMF CV put on. Shipped it back today should have it by Monday weather depending.
 
sweetk30 said:
1410 or 1480 single joint would get the range you need . Seen guys doing this before . But the limiter is the pinion size even on a 60 .

Old post on pirate jess @ HAD sain yokes are limit on big joints you need flanges . And 32* is safe average all day for stuff like a 1410 .

Search high angle driveline jesse . He has been in rhe saft game a long time and tons of info he has posted over the years.
Click to expand...
I’m pretty familiar with his stuff. I ran his shafts on my old yota crawlers but there for awhile I couldn’t get a shaft made to save my life from Him. I will be going to a single joint when I go HP down the road that way the angles are right. If I go single now I’m sure I’d have one heck of a vibration.
 
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What's a BAMF? Lots of good info here. I also think clocking the tcase is causing some issues. My front axle is pushed forward 1.5" with 5-6" of lift and I just ground the stops and lengthened the stock shaft for now. No issues.
 
4xshaft.com

BAMF, 42 Degree CV Shaft

Conquer High Angles with the BAMF 42° High Angle Driveline Struggling with driveline binding on your lifted truck? Standard CV components just can't handle the extreme angles thrown their way by big lifts. Introducing the BAMF 42° High Angle Driveshaft, built specifically for conquering those...
4xshaft.com 4xshaft.com
 
formercruiserhead said:
What's a BAMF? Lots of good info here. I also think clocking the tcase is causing some issues. My front axle is pushed forward 1.5" with 5-6" of lift and I just ground the stops and lengthened the stock shaft for now. No issues.
Click to expand...

Lot's of factors to consider when determining the operating angle and slip required. How you use the rig is a big factor as well. There's a big difference between fire roads and being flexed out in a rock garden for hours on end.
 
Is that BAMF a sealed CV? I ran a HAD 42* rear CV for a while, since it was an ag application part it wasn't sealed so it constantly threw grease out and required frequent greasing. Jess also warned my to only drive it for 30-45 min at a time and then stop to let it cool down. I ended up removing it and using the CV I posted in post #3.
 
nvrenuf said:
Is that BAMF a sealed CV? I ran a HAD 42* rear CV for a while, since it was an ag application part it wasn't sealed so it constantly threw grease out and required frequent greasing. Jess also warned my to only drive it for 30-45 min at a time and then stop to let it cool down. I ended up removing it and using the CV I posted in post #3.
Click to expand...

Beef

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