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Front lift...what to do...

No problem. I've always wanted to build a prerunner style 2WD Blazer, but haven't had much luck finding bolt-in long-travel front suspensions for them. Probably something custom would have to be done...

And with those fiberglass fenders, they come gelcoated in white, so you wouldn't have to paint them the day you get them, and they wouldn't look stupid left unpainted on your white truck. Lucky; mine's tan and apple red two-tone...
 
You know those aren't bad price wise either...

http://www.hannemannfiberglass.com/ProductPages/HF5006.html

That looks like the one for me...and they are only like $200 a side...so for $400 I could be set...seems like a worthy investment.
Oh they have that same part but w/ the core support (the part number next to that one) is there a reason for this? Do you have to replace the core support or do they just offer that as an option?
 
I'm not sure about the core support deal; it might be for people updating front ends, but you might want to call to make sure before ordering.
 
yeah I forgot about that...some of the kits are designed for an updated clip to be swapped in.

Well this isn't going to be anything soon (can't justify spending money on stuff like this when I need a tranny and d-shaft work :))
Maybe I can look into cutting my fenders...if they look great then good for me and I'll move onto the next project...if they look so so or worse...then I'll yank them off and order some fiberglass flare replacements.
 
I say if you are dead set on going higher get a set of 6 inch lift 52s. that should give you about 10 inches of lift plus move the axle foward which will help with your rubbing issue. it will still prolly ride like crap but it would be better then stock length 12 inch springs.

but personally I think you should drop it down to a 4 or 6 inch lift and saw the crap out of the fenders, but I have little regard for sheet metal and chicks dig the cut up bent fenders.:D
 
JMHO, but Avery already stated that he doesn't want to cut just yet. He's not even sure. I don't understand the 12" bashing. The 12" Superlift Avery is a true 12" in the front, 9" springs in the rear with a 3" block. The springs are HD's, not softrides, so yes, it's going to be a little stiffer than usual. Having a lift that big is also going to have it's own operational specialties, ie, easy on the turns, new blind spots, etc. Ask me how I know? Superlift 10" is not too far behind!

If I was to make a recommendation, go Superlift 10". True 10's up front, 8's in back with a 1.5" block. You get 6" clearance on 39.5's, which I run, so with your 38's you'll have enough clearance to turn, no problem! My 39's turn full no issues. I too did not want to cut my truck up. Your's is nice too!

DSC01588.jpg


Full turn with 10" and 39.5's

DSC01697.jpg


DSC01642.jpg



I'd go 10" Super w/crossover. If you need help with the components you need, I'll gladly give you the list of part numbers. My point is do what YOU want to do with your truck. 6" and a hack job isn't for everyone, and it certainly isn't the rule.

12" reaks of 80's? I don't think so!

Manny
 
MuddinManny said:
JMHO, but Avery already stated that he doesn't want to cut just yet. He's not even sure. I don't understand the 12" bashing. The 12" Superlift Avery is a true 12" in the front, 9" springs in the rear with a 3" block. The springs are HD's, not softrides, so yes, it's going to be a little stiffer than usual. Having a lift that big is also going to have it's own operational specialties, ie, easy on the turns, new blind spots, etc. Ask me how I know? Superlift 10" is not too far behind!

If I was to make a recommendation, go Superlift 10". True 10's up front, 8's in back with a 1.5" block. You get 6" clearance on 39.5's, which I run, so with your 38's you'll have enough clearance to turn, no problem! My 39's turn full no issues. I too did not want to cut my truck up. Your's is nice too!

I'd go 10" Super w/crossover. If you need help with the components you need, I'll gladly give you the list of part numbers. My point is do what YOU want to do with your truck. 6" and a hack job isn't for everyone, and it certainly isn't the rule.

12" reaks of 80's? I don't think so!

Manny
Click to expand...

Yep, Manny speaks the truth. Although the 12" Superlift kit includes 8" rear springs and 4" (or 3.5") rear blocks.

And I think a 12" lift is overkill with 39.5" tires (in my case), so with 38.5" tires it may look a little weird. I went with 39.5" tires because I got the tires with less than 200 miles on them for $800, not to mention I'm still running 1/2 ton axles :doah:. But when I upgrade axles, you'll see some 42" Iroks on there for sure.

And who says a 12" lift reaks or 80's? It seems anything less than 10" nowadays is small, thanks to all these Stupid Duty's runnin' around with way-too-big lifts.
 
Ok wait a second...lets get some numbers here...

Manny:
10" lift
39.5" tall tires
6" clearance up front

Avery:
8" lift
38.5" tires (measure out to 37")
maybe 3" clearance up front

The numbers don't add up.
So he has 2.5" taller tires (so 1 1/4" coser to the fenders) which is about the difference in our lift heights...so why does he have 6" clearance and I have a couple?
Maybe a good first step would be for me to measure from oh say the top of the axle tube to the bottom of the frame on all four corners and get someone w/ a stock truck to do the same to see exactly how much lift I have (factoring in sagging)...I did this another time but the other guy was a little crazy so maybe I should do it again.
 
Don't laugh at the pic; it's the only clear one from the side I've got to show tire clearance (taken from when I smogged it with the "stock" 33's). But I've got an easy 8"+ of clearance from the rear corner of the fender, and close to 9-10" to the front. I'd say your springs are sagging. All the better excuse to swap on some 10" front springs and a 2" block in the rear, along with appropriately sized shocks.
P1010331.jpg

And I can take some stock measurements off my '79 K10 if you need 'em when I get home from school tomorrow, just ask, and tell me exactly what ones you need. ;)
 
yeah that would be great...I have always thought that something wasn't quite right with these 8" springs...
Hmmm I guess the best place to measure would be from the top of the axle tube to the bottom of the frame.?.?.?
Front and rear of course. Or we could just measure the exact height of the springs...tie a string from one bushing to the other bushing then measure from the middle of the string to the top of the spring pack...that'll give us the height of the springs.
 
Alright, when I get home tomorrow I'll bust out the measuring tape. You know how long that lift's been on your truck? Both mine and Manny's lifts are brand new (well, his is, mine's only 6 months old, and half of that time it was parked), and unsettled, so you might wanna factor that into your calculations.
 
well yeah thats the point of measuring...to see how much its sagged over the years...I have no clue how old the lift is...3+ years w/o a doubt.
 
get that 12" kit and see if you like it. I believe 12" kits are perfect for a mud bogger. My friend has a 12" kit on 38 radials and i wont ride in that rig at all too stiff for my liking and the front driveline breaks all the time.
 
I refuse to put blocks on my truck so that 12" kit won't work...if I ever go that high I'll have alcan or deaver make some...

For now I think I'm going to look into more fender options (maybe new 8" springs if these are sagging or go to 10's)
 
Just cut the fenders. Your in CA, new fenders are a dime a dozen around here. Or free (including a rest of a truck with it) if your lucky like me :D
 
your ride height looks perfect to me. Stay with the 8" and maybe get a zerorate for the rear and make some longer front shackles if you need another inch or so.....Just a thought.
 
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