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Front Locker? Need advice

Thunder

Thunder

3/4 ton status
Joined
Jul 20, 2000
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Northeast Nevada
All right. I have a lockrite in the front and really dont like it. It works Great out in the Hills. But.. My K5 is a also DD. Lockrites work good in the back But in the front it is just not what I want.
A Lincoln locker is out of the question. And beings I have 10 bolts and plan on keeping them I aint going to sink $$$ in to a 10 bolt with a ARB or E locker so I dont want to hear about those. I know what they are.

So post up! If you are using a Powertrax No slip, Detroit True track, or other locker/Limited slip that works good in the front.

Can you use a Gov bomb in the front? The newer stronger 8.6 Gov locks and be adapted to my truck simply by changing out the side bearings.

I am leaning towards the Powertrax No Slip for the ease of install. But would like to hear if they work good on the front. Without all the issues that the Lockrite has.
But also like the Detrioit True track. I can set up a Diff no problem.
I really dont use 4x4 on the street(it snows quite a bit here) cuz I have a detriot in the back. But would still like to have a Locker/limited slip Diff in the front that is usable on the street when I need it for deep snow. As I am usually going to work before the plows are out. Also My wife and Daughter drive my K5 sometimes when the weather is bad.
So If any of you got a locker/ limited slip in the front I want to hear how you like it. And if it has better road manners than a Poprite.:ears:
 
Just from looking at the design standpoint ( I have no front yet ) , the NoSlip locks solidly , but without the clicking of the Lockright . They have synchros in the NoSlip to keep the teeth from banging hard . I would love one if they were cheaper .
 
I dont like the idea of any locker in a 10 bolt front. Do you have manual hubs? You could unlock one hub for 3 wheel drive. :D Maybe a Eaton Posi.
 
I wouldn't run a gov bomb up front just for the simple fact that it either works or it doesnt...and when it does work, it usually kicks hard which is a GREAT way to break stuff.
 
Whats wrong with the lockright? Is it just too noisey and bangs/clanks/pops/clicks a lot? Im leaning towards getting one for the front because its so cheap and I dont dd the blazer anymore. I wouldnt really mind the noise since I will only be using it on 4 wheeling trips.
-Harrison
 
I have no problems with a locker in front on a 10 bolt. Manual superwinch hubs. And yes i drive with one hub out a lot offroad. But impractical on the street. Also have superior CM axles in the front. Back too. I like 10 bolts. Dont care what anyone thinks about them.
Dont want to weigh my truck down with one ton stuff. Dont like unsprung weight. Only running 33" MTs. Blazer is pretty light. Soon to go rag top.
Want to know what people are running up front and works good all around.
Thanks for replys.
 
Whats wrong with the lockright? Is it just too noisey and bangs/clanks/pops/clicks a lot? Im leaning towards getting one for the front because its so cheap and I dont dd the blazer anymore. I wouldnt really mind the noise since I will only be using it on 4 wheeling trips.
-Harrison
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Off road and going slow thru nasty stuff i Love it. I run with 1 hub locked out till really need it. It works fine offroad
But
It is is way noisy in the front it also binds up pretty good on the street and really jerks the drive tran when it unloads.
When i need to use it on the street or when my wife and kids drive my K5 to get around when the roads are bad it just aint working out. I need something a little more user friendly for the street but still get good performance offroad.
 
Front Posi ?

I'm looking for the same info. I have a guy looking right now on the cost to install Auburn Posi's front and rear with either 3:73 or 4:10 gears. Everything is stock in my '87 K5 and I'm running 31x12.50x15R ProComp Mud Terrains. I just get into muddy situations here in Central Florida. I recently had Warn Supreme manual hubs installed. I just have to remember to get out and unlock them before I head back home.

Anybody had any experience with the setup I'm looking into? I haven't decided on what gearing to get yet. I have to drive it 25 miles on open paved roads to get to my hunting lease so I want to try and maintain some sort of reasonable gas milage. Oh yeah, it has automatic OD. I would like to have gone with a 2" lift and 33's but Iwe have a LOT of gates we have to go through so climbing up and down all the time could get to be a 'pain' plus that also means I have to pick up those 150 lb hogs that much higher to put on my hitch carrier :doah:
 
I wouldn't run a gov bomb up front just for the simple fact that it either works or it doesnt...and when it does work, it usually kicks hard which is a GREAT way to break stuff.
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The new Gov bombs are stronger than the older pre 99 units. Eaton re worked the springs so they lock in faster without the jerk the old gov locks were famous for. Also the cases are stronger and clutches work better. I would try one cuz you can get them pretty cheap on E bay. But I dont know if they will work on a front axle
 
I know its supposed to be stronger, etc, but ive driven vehicles with them and still dont like them. The 8.5 gov locks were crap, as everyone knows, and the 8.6 isn't much better in my opinion. Ive heard of enough going out to know that its still not uncommon. You might be able to get away with a govlock up front, and im pretty sure it would fit, AFAIK carriers swap front and rear in 10bs, but i still would rather have something else up there. Just my $0.02.
 
If you cant or dont want to spring for a Air Locker or Electric Locker I think either the Tractech worm gear limited slip or Eaton would be best. Tho you will lose a little off road with the limited slip. I woulda thought the Lock Right would be unnoticable when in 2 wheel with hubs open.
 
Thunder said:
I have no problems with a locker in front on a 10 bolt. Manual superwinch hubs. And yes i drive with one hub out a lot offroad. But impractical on the street. Also have superior CM axles in the front. Back too. I like 10 bolts. Dont care what anyone thinks about them.
Dont want to weigh my truck down with one ton stuff. Dont like unsprung weight. Only running 33" MTs. Blazer is pretty light. Soon to go rag top.
Want to know what people are running up front and works good all around.
Thanks for replys.
Click to expand...

What's the point of having a traction device in the front and then keeping one hub unlocked? Less chance of breakage? Wouldn't you still only have one wheel turning, like an open dif or am I missing something?
 
ITs difficult to turn with the front locked, so you unlock one hub and can turn easily. you go from 4 wheels locked to 3 wheel locked. Only when your in NASTY stuff you have it all locked.
 
Yup to what you said trailblazer. For most 4 wheelin I just run with 3 wheels locked. With a locker in the back and one pullin in the front that usually plenty. When I get to the nasty stuff I lock the other front in. Its a pretty common thing to do if you run front locker.
I was hoping some people here have tried diferent things in the front and wanted some input. I have heard Powertrax No Slip work good on the front but dont even know anyone who is running one front or rear. Shure would like to hear from someone who has one. And the Detroit/ Tracktech True Track I know is a good LS unit for the front. Eatons work good as well. I an just looking for input and thanks for all the replys.
Maby I'll just go ahead and get the powertrax No slip and do a write up on it for others info. They are simple to install I see them come up on Ebay quite often. Ebay has been very good to me lately.
 
Sorry I'm late, I was starting my own thread. Like it says down there, '85 Burb w 10bs. PowerTrax LockRite in the front and NoSlip in the rear, Warn hubs, BFGTAKOs LT235/85R16. I've yet to play in snow, but I will very soon, but for the dirt, rock & mud I love'em. I've been building my Burb Lite also but I like the length for the U in SUV. I have noticed on "even" dirt in switchbacks, it tends to wind-up before allowing the wheels the turn-in deeper, in other words tends to understeer until the torque can overcome the traction on the inside. I can see where that is not at all what you'd want. For DD that would be a pain, in snow I'd get out and lock only the outside hub, I'd be going slow anyway, like on trails. I don't know, on graded snow, four chains in 2WD only? At least the NoSlip will keep ya going.:D
 
Running a lockright in a 10 bolt up front was OK for me exc ept for all the broken parts. I would recomend not locking the front. I always ran 2wdr and kept both my hubs locked and only want to 4 when I ran in to an obsticle not doable with a locked rear only. This works fine untill you really get in to the rocks. Then the ping, bang pop from your front diff is actually your axles and U joints breaking, not your lockright. It took me a long time to cave but iI now have a D60, a 14 bolt and two Detroits. Think about spending the big bucks now and not waisting your mony on locking your ten bolt and the new shafts you WILL buy later.
 
I really dont need info on a lockrite and on how a lockrite in the front breaks parts and that I need a D60. Aint going there. Dont want one. Dont need one. I dont like unsprung weight! I thought I made that clear in previous post. I am very satisfied with my K5 on 10 bolts.
I have been running a locker in the front for years without problems except I go thru U joints. I have also broke my front lockrite Just the pins, but not anything else But I go thru U joints in the back too with a Detroit locker in there. Just the nature of the beasts. I know how to drive them.
I want Info on LS or locker that works on the front without all the issues that a lockrite locker has. I realise I may give up a tiny bit of traction but thats ok. All I am trying to do is make my k5 a little better street manners for people like my wife and kids who drive it in bad weather/ deep snow that need 4x4 but dont know how to deal with a full locker and have to shift in and out of 4x4 all the time .. And acually I am getting tired of it also. Getting lazy in my old age

Roadnotca: How do You like the No slip?? You are the first to respond that has one. Any problems with it?:ears:
 
Dude hold on... you said you don't want to sink money into your 10 bolts because your keeping them. Am I retarded or does that seem contradictory?

Fact is a rig that is fully locked up is WAY more capable than one with a locked rear and an lsd. As soon as one tire is off the ground with an lsd its useless. Their good for medium wheelin and mud but they can't replace a locker.

Either the wife can drive it and you'll have to compromise some capability, vica versa, or you could... buy a selectable and get the best of both worlds. 500 bucks for the e-locker is not bad.
 
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