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Front Locker? Need advice
- Thread starter Thunder
- Start date
roadnotca
3/4 ton status
Like I said below, I really like the PowerTrax in the rr. I like the convenience, it clutches up when needed, I don't hear or feel it. It does chirp more the faster you go through street turns. I did a lot of reading before popping the $$, this is my first build; so far all good. Sending PM w phone # so you can ask all you want.Thunder said:Roadnotca: How do You like the No slip?? You are the first to respond that has one. Any problems with it?
87BrnRsd
1/2 ton status
Thats true. LSD's work ok for medium wheeling, but I have seen them only spin one tire in a pure mud situation. LSD's tend to slip more than limit. Why dont you sell the lockright, then go selectable? Seems like that would be the best option for your wife and kid to drive in the snow, but wont leave you stuck on the trail wishing that the lsd was actually turning both wheels. It might be just me, but im a strong disbeliever in lsd's. When you really need them to act like a locker, they leave you with only one wheel turning.beastofablaze said:
You might want to try to ask BRANDONC. I believe it was him who put the 500 caddy in his truck, has a no slip, and its only spinning one wheel on the street. I dont know if that was installation error, or it just isnt working properly.
BTW- If your thinking about selling the front lockright...i might know someone interested in buying it.
-Harrison
LSD's should do that, its when you get a larger margin in the difference of torque to the wheels that it will let one spin (dead leg)like one on ice, one on pavement.KTEX said:
roadnotca
3/4 ton status
With that mastodon 500, Brandon may have blown off the shoulders on the cogs.87BrnRsd said:
resurrected_jimmy
1/2 ton status
I have said this in other posts but I really like the Tru-Trac for a front end. It engages smoothly and is not intrusive unless you do the hammer down thing in the corners. One of the things I love about it is the fact that it is a full replacement differential. I have very little trouble with broken shafts on 10 bolt/Dana 44 front ends but always trashed the carrier. Tru-trac's don't have clutches to wear out and use standard gear oil and I feel they are worth the cost.
Thunder
3/4 ton status
resurrected jimmy.
Thank you for your post. I wanted to hear about the Detroit True Track on the front. I really like the True Track because it is a Detroit to match my rear and has stronger carrier than the stock 10 bolt with a lockrite.
Plus they are less $$ than a powertrax no slip.
Also am begining to think that maby an E-locker may the way to go too. They really are not much more than the L/S and the more I research them and think about it.
They would give me the best of both worlds. I was trying to save a little money. But I am beginning to realise you cant put a price on a good time.
This is a good thread. The subject hasn't been covered a lot. And has caught some interest. I am finding out some good info and it is helping me make a decision........... So.........
Now that I am thinking about E locker/Arb
Anyone running one on the front? And how do you like it?
Harrision. Dont think you would want my lockrite it is over 5 years old has ben in both the front and rear and is getting pretty trashed. I use my K5 pretty hard and I broke a couple of pins last winter towing out a *##!@*! Jeep that broke its POS D35 on a Snow Wheeling trip I went on.
I Replaced the pins and springs. But the teeth are getting worn. It still works but I dont know for how long. But if you want a wore out lock rite PM me. you can have it cheap when I figgure out what I want to replace it with.
Thank you for your post. I wanted to hear about the Detroit True Track on the front. I really like the True Track because it is a Detroit to match my rear and has stronger carrier than the stock 10 bolt with a lockrite.
Plus they are less $$ than a powertrax no slip.
Also am begining to think that maby an E-locker may the way to go too. They really are not much more than the L/S and the more I research them and think about it.
They would give me the best of both worlds. I was trying to save a little money. But I am beginning to realise you cant put a price on a good time. This is a good thread. The subject hasn't been covered a lot. And has caught some interest. I am finding out some good info and it is helping me make a decision........... So.........
Now that I am thinking about E locker/Arb
Anyone running one on the front? And how do you like it?
Harrision. Dont think you would want my lockrite it is over 5 years old has ben in both the front and rear and is getting pretty trashed. I use my K5 pretty hard and I broke a couple of pins last winter towing out a *##!@*! Jeep that broke its POS D35 on a Snow Wheeling trip I went on.
I Replaced the pins and springs. But the teeth are getting worn. It still works but I dont know for how long. But if you want a wore out lock rite PM me. you can have it cheap when I figgure out what I want to replace it with.
sope
1/2 ton status
There it is. Wife with your kids driving your truck in the snow. I figure your choice is selectable or open. If locking it up for that, don't cheap out. It's too dangerous.
roadnotca
3/4 ton status
Maybe "factory" is best for snow, 4WD and open front, with chains.sope said:
I have an E-Locker that I've run for a little more than a year in my front axle. It has never caused any problems locking or unlocking. I'm pretty easy on the throttle when I'm wheeling so I can't attest to the strength, but when you compare it to the stock carrier, it looks way beefier. I've decided to put one in my 14bolt SF when it goes in since I stumbled on to one that was dirt cheap.
Thunder said:
ARB in the front 10b for the last 2 1/2 years, and I run mostly rocky trails (5 Moab trips etc.), pictures on my website can give you an idea. I like it a lot; most of the time, I leave it open, and just hit the button when needed, and that is typically only for a few feet. In fact, I have a hard time trying to remember how it was without having a front locker.
Here's a rundown of my experience:
I had problems with the system twice; they have been on the electrical side, not the pneumatic side (I run the regular blue plastic line in front, and a braided stainless line to the rear ARB). One issue was a loose connection at the fuse block, which I solved by using a GM fuse block connector that locks into place. Another issue was a corroded inline fuse that was interrupting the circuit from the pressure switch; solved with a new fuse. I've never had an issue with the locking mechanism itself: hit button - lock axle - end of story.
My compressor has a slow air leak, I'll have to put a little silicon grease on the O-ring again. I have the compressor and 10b ARB for almost 8 years now - the 10b ARB lived in the rear at first, and moved to the front when I upgraded to a heavier rear axle (D60FF). The notion that you could use the ARB compressor to air up your tires is BS - nobody in their right mind has that much time to waste. I bought the air-up kit back when the truck was on 32's - it's essentially another fitting on the little air tank. I'm planning to convert that fitting so that I can connect a CO2 line (I carry a 10lb tank with a regulator anyway...) in case the compressor should fail (I've been told it may be near the end of its service life...) - that way I can pressurize the tank and use the solenoid switches as usual.
I'm finally having issues with the U-joints in the front stock axles (tires are 34" actual height MTRs; haven't upgraded shafts or joints): short side spit the cap at BB'05, and the long side decided to go along a few weeks later on a desert trail in AZ. I believe these actually were the originals from '85.
I do baby the truck through the trails, but I would do that anyway, front locker or not. Those that have seen my truck or have ridden along agree that it works pretty well. My experience with ARB lockers has been very positive, to the point that there are two of them in the K5, and another two in my wife's FJ40...
micah
1/2 ton status
I don't understand why you want to be able to run in 4wd on the street... is this for the snow and ice or something? basically any locker is going to give you the same problem on the street. Your only option is a limited slip if you don't want the front locked.
for what it's worth, I loved the lockright in my front 10 bolt. but have since gone 1ton with detroits. I run drive flanges (always locked hubs) and as long as I have it in 2 wheel drive there is no issue when I hit pavement (should be the same for the lockright as it uses the same locking principal).
for what it's worth, I loved the lockright in my front 10 bolt. but have since gone 1ton with detroits. I run drive flanges (always locked hubs) and as long as I have it in 2 wheel drive there is no issue when I hit pavement (should be the same for the lockright as it uses the same locking principal).
I wheel with two guys that have lockrites. They are always having to get out and unlock their hubs when they want to turn short. Maybe something is wrong with their lockers. I like my E-Locker because when we get to our camp I lock my hubs and they don't get touched for 3 days. Maybe I'm lazy. As far as driving in 4 wheel drive have you ever noticed how much faster you can stop on a slick road when you don't have to worry about one axle locking ahead of the other? I usually leave my hubs locked if the roads are questionable so I can put it in 4 wheel drive easily, and if the roads are snow packed I do. Although I have not driven with a non-selectable locker in the front, I have had enough experience with one in the rear on ice to know I don't want one in the front of my DD.
Thunder
3/4 ton status
Thanks everyone for all the replys and help. After thinking about it and researching things. I think I'll go with an E locker. They are strong enough for my needs and can get parts easy. Seems to be exactly what I am looking for.
