Peteasauras
Registered Member
Just for referance. Here is a pic of a '70 with TC easy rides and ord shackles.
CK5
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Front shackle question
- Thread starter Moody
- Start date
Even so....you might still end up dollars ahead by selling those late-model springs to someone on CK5, and then buying the correct length 1st Gen ones.
All of these other changes (angled shims, long shackles, relocating mounting points) are going to cost you time, money and certainly frustration.... IMHO.
All of these other changes (angled shims, long shackles, relocating mounting points) are going to cost you time, money and certainly frustration.... IMHO.
I'd move your front hangers forward, either build a crossmember like i did, get a sky crossmember or DIY4Xs b52 brackets. The longer spring will provide you a better ride and more flex than the shorter. More wheelbase helps too but there is a limit to how far forward you can go and keep the stock style steering.
bigbadchev84
1/2 ton status
i am running 8" springs for a second gen in mine with zero rates, they are installed straight up for the lift, mine rides nice for an 8" spring and caster is fine, drives straight, 3/8" flat bar, 8" long 6" center to center. front driveline works without bind, and is stock length. I dont offroad this, so i cant give any info on that
Peteasauras
Registered Member
If you are going to all the trouble to move the front brackets you may want to consider going to 52" springs. (I wish I would have done this from the start).
Anybody know if it's better for geometry with the 47s to move the front bracket forward or the rear hanger back??
Anybody know if it's better for geometry with the 47s to move the front bracket forward or the rear hanger back??
Moody
1/2 ton status
Well I decided today to make some longer shackles and see what the result would be. Following Norby's advice I used 1.5 wide, 3/8 thick strap and drilled two holes at the bottom one inch apart. The first hole is approximately 5 inches, one inch longer than stock and the second is 6 inches, two inches longer than stock. Since I had to put on new brake calipers anyway I decided to go for it today. I am happy with the position of the axle, almost dead center with zero rate in the neutral position. I installed the shackle on the first hole and it helped the shackle postion quite a bit. If you look close you can see the pinion in the background and it didn't appear to move at all. Although the shackle angle is much better I'm sure if I wheeled it hard it would still hit the frame. If I moved the spring hanger forward about 1 to 1.5 inches it would probably put the shackle vertical and then I could use the zero rate to put the axle back at center. Or I guess I could try putting the shackle at the number two hole and see what I get. What do you guys think?
you might not hit the frame too, once the spring is flat the shackle won't angle back anymore and if you start seeing negative arch the shackle will start to swing forward again. Hows your caster look? Hows the driveline angle with the added twist down in teh front end? kinda looks like the pinion might be a tad low and might not want to go to the next hole on the shackle unless you put some shims in there to counter act it.
Moody
1/2 ton status
I haven't been able to connect the driveline yet as I switched to a 3/4 ton front and 465/205 combo out of a newer truck and it has a flange instead of a yoke so I'll have to have a new driveline fabbed up. I need to actually measure the pinion with a level to find out what the exact measurement is. Caster appears fine, although I won't know for sure how it drives until I get the truck entirely back together. You are right about the second hole on the shackle. The springs dropped right in to the first hole but I would have to shim it to get it into the second.
