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Front Spindle Locknut - Pound it Out?

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prossett

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I still haven't been able to replace the front axle oil seal because I can't find the four-prong socket to remove the spindle locknut that you see once the hub is off. (see my location... :crazy: )

Whoever had the truck before me - and probably a mechanic! - pounded it off because I can see the marks he left.

My question is: can I just get the spindle locknut off by pounding a screwdriver or punch into the square holes?

And if I do that, can I then get it back on properly?

My Haynes talks about tightening to a certain torque, while spinning the wheel, then backing off, then tightening again, and then backing off a final time - how important is this?

1983 Jimmy 4WD 10-bolt auto-locking hub

Locknut looks like this:

5005301-2.jpg
 
JCWhitney has the sockets for cheap (under $10.00). Tool truck will have them for around $50.00 with a lifetime warranty. You can buy five JCWhitney sockets for the price of one Snap On or Mac. I have had mine for 16 years and never broken it.
 
I have heard of it done that way, hammer and chisel/punch/screwdriver,
but see if you can make the tool from a scoket. It will take some grinding,
they use that on the older military vehicles, maybe look hard around base
to find one.
 
Go to Advance/Auto Zone/NAPA, all of those guys will have the socket. Got mine at Advance for like ~$10-15 dollars. Its one of those items that you never use but save a lot of time and bloody knuckles. Its well worth the money. A buddy of mine used a screwdriver and took 4 hours to do. Took me 4 minutes with the socket. Most of that time was used getting the wrench from my tool box then to take the nut out.

Torque spec for my 73 blazer required 40ft-pds for the inner and minumum of 50ft-pds for the outer nut.
 
Guys, look where he's at ;) Not exactly an autozone on every corner LOL

JCWhitney online should have the tool and can mail it to you, or find someone on here willing to pick one up and stick it in a box :)

KP
 
Kyle89K5 said:
Guys, look where he's at ;) Not exactly an autozone on every corner LOL

JCWhitney online should have the tool and can mail it to you, or find someone on here willing to pick one up and stick it in a box :)

KP
Click to expand...
Good call.

You might be able to fab one, just use a big socket and some metal rod or something. If it was put on with power tools (hydraulic/pneumatic impact wrench) you will never get it off. Usually people that put them on with an impact wrench just let it go until it stops, which is hundreds of foot/pounds. That's what happened to me.
 
In the past, I have used a long set of needlenose pliers. They may break, but you can remove it that way. If you have access to a big socket, you may be able to grind it down. You don't have to have 4 prongs. 2 that are opposite of each other will work.
 
We made one out of exhaust pipe and some small steel rods welded to the pipe or you can cut out the end of the pipe so it has the 4 prongs sticking out. It worked alright for one side, but we broke off most of the prongs before we got to the other side. Your really better off getting the actual tool. Thats what we did even at 40 bucks or so its worth it.

Brent
 
Sorry Prossett. Did not realize your in the middle east.

Be patient and buy the socket on ebay. Unless you can fab something up, its worth the wait.
 
Yeah I miss Autozone, pepBoyz and how easy it is to just drive in and get whatever you wanted, and more!

Thanks for the advice - I tried this morning with a few whacks, but it's in tight and I can't get a good angle. I'll try finding a pipe - 55mm? - and cut out the 4 prongs.
 
how long does it take to ship over there, i have em at work for $14.99

worst case senario i can ship ya one, not sure of the shipping cost though.
 
Thanks buddy - much appreciated, really!

Problem is I don't know how to get the money to you - paypal won't take payments from the Middle East. I'll try and see if there's some other way.

You made my day, man - thanks again.
 
nemesis_pyros said:
We made one out of exhaust pipe and some small steel rods welded to the pipe or you can cut out the end of the pipe so it has the 4 prongs sticking out. It worked alright for one side, but we broke off most of the prongs before we got to the other side. Your really better off getting the actual tool. Thats what we did even at 40 bucks or so its worth it.

Brent
Click to expand...

I did just this, but used .120 wall pipe. For the small steel rods I used 1/4 solid rod. The pipe was just small enough that all I had to do was weld the rods on the outside of the pipe and it would in gage the slots in the nut. On the other end of the pipe is a washer and a nut welded to the washer. This way I can use a rachet with a socket on it. I have also used my impact on it. I have taken apart prob 5+ axles with it, on top of fixing a couple of broken shafts on the axle that was in my truck, and tearing one apart in the junk yard. Its not the prettiest thing out there but it works darn good and was free since I had all the crap laying around.
 
are you stationed there? doesn't the motor pool have em for the cucv's??

let me know man, hell I'll send ya one free :bow:
 
No, I'm just a lowly civilian working on the fringe, don't deserve your kindness, 55willy - but much appreciated, thanks.

If I had a simple way to send over payment, I would.
 
This article is on a f*rd website, but this guy made a tool from PVC. Depending on how bad the nut is on there, this could work, or at least be a cheap way to give it a whirl... If you need more leverage you could drill a hole on the end and makeshift some sort of "T" handle??? Hope you get it off buddy. Going back together, I was able to tighten mine well enough with just a screwdriver to seat the bearings and stuff. But I have a D44 front, and yours might be beefier. Good luck.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/articles/2003/24-8.jpg
 
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