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Front Wheel bearing Job 1991

R

RJB44

1/2 ton status
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Dec 3, 2005
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Location
Northern Virginia
Looks like I need to adjust or replace my front wheel bearings. How difficult is this? I would rather not have to pay a shop to do it if its not that difficult. I have done work on my truck over the years, so I'm not a total novice. My truck was at the shop for something else and one of the techs noted the loose wheels. May be an inspection issue. He indicated I might be able to adjust them (tighten?) I can't recall if there is a special tool required?

Thanks
 
Should be pretty easy. I did mine a few weeks ago, and this was the first time I went into anything this sophisticated. The only special tool you will need is the spindle nut socket. Autozone or the like should have one, that's wherre I got mine. Just take your time and take out everything and lay it down on a piece of cardboard in the order it came out in.
 
RJB44 said:
Looks like I need to adjust or replace my front wheel bearings. How difficult is this? I would rather not have to pay a shop to do it if its not that difficult. I have done work on my truck over the years, so I'm not a total novice. My truck was at the shop for something else and one of the techs noted the loose wheels. May be an inspection issue. He indicated I might be able to adjust them (tighten?) I can't recall if there is a special tool required?

Thanks
Click to expand...

1.Is it a solid front axle or IFS set up? Is it 4wd or 2wd if its IFS?

2.I'm fairly certain you cannot adjust wheel bearings.

3.It could also be your balljoints or Tie rod ends if all he said was loose wheels. You'll have to inspect further to determine where the ''looseness'' is coming from.
 
gotblazers said:
2.I'm fairly certain you cannot adjust wheel bearings.
Click to expand...

You can adjust wheel bearings, they can loosen up over time especially if the lock ring is broken or loose.

When you jack up the truck, wiggle the wheel, put a hand on the top 12 o clock position and the 6 o clock position, wiggle it back and forth. If you have alot of movement then you might be looking at ball joints.

If you can before you by parts, have someone wiggle the steering wheel while you watch all the steering linkages. See if anything is loose there.

If you are feeling looseness it could be wheel bearings, steering components or ball joints
 
It's a 1991 full-size GMC Jimmy, solid front axle. I did the 12 & 6 position and there is some movement, not a great deal, but probably enough where it needs to be corrected. So the spindle nut socket is a must? Someone told me earlier today that I might not need one, but I would rather go with the word from someone who has done this. I guess I will need to look at replacing them if they can't be adjusted/tightened. LMK if there anything else important that I need to know, as I will attempting this task tomorrow.
 
I was able to get mine off without the socket with a flat-head screwdriver and a hammer, but that was because I was waiting for my brother to give me a ride and I didn't want to wait. I would definitely recommend getting the socket because #1 it's easier and #2 you need to be able to torque down the spindle nut properly.
 
What size socket

Is there a certain size I need? I want to make sure I know what to get when I get to the auto parts store today.
 
Well, this turned into mess for me. It sure seemed easier in the on-line tutorials then actually doing it. It took me forever to get the first hub off. After I finally did, I was able to tighten the second spindle nut and remove e the excess play in the wheel. Great!


Then I had to stop and pick-up my daughter at softball, which was supposed to take about 20 mins. Well, it took a little over an hour since I had to also drop off three of her friends. When I got back, I lost track of how things were suppose to go back together, especially some of the washers and snap rings.

So I started to take off the other side to see and just my luck stripped out the small screws holding on the hub cover. I used a 3/8 with correct star bit and it work fine on the first side (slow speed) this time it wiped right threw them. And being stupid, I tried different bits only to make it worse. So now I can't get any of the screws out as they are all hollowed out. So much for getting this job done today. What a PIA.

I appreciate everyone's responses; I was looking forward to this going relatively smoothly for me. Now the truck will sit on the jack stands for another week.


Sorry about the rant..just frustrated.
 
drill the heads of the allen (not star or torx) skrews until the head pops off, then pull the hub cover off and use a vice grip to grab and turn the allens out. Im not sure where to get new allens, but the junkyard might work for the used ones.

hub socket is a 4 prong unit that I got at Kragens/o-reallys labeled 1/2 ton/ 3/4 ton.
 
I ended up getting a screw extractor bit, actually two, from Sears, but they were no help. Stopped at Autozone to get price on bearings and hub...ouch! I ended up buying a Haynes manual out of frustration. Brought it home and realized it really didn't help me in trying to get that one side back together.

There is a washer and snap ring I can't recall where it went on and the book doesn't even show it. I though the washer went on right after the inner spindle nut, followed by the snap ring then the outer spindle net, but it wasn't happening.

And the book isn't really clear about how the coil spring and retraining ring goes back on. That's why I wanted to look at the other side, but obviously no progress there.

I was drilling the heck out one of the screw heads, but wasn't making much progress. Can I cut the screw heads off with a cutting tool enough to get the cover off? Hopefully if so, I can have enough of the screw studs exposed to spin back out.

Also, I noticed there is more play in the side with the cap issue. Hopefully I can tighten it up like I did the other side, because I don't have the budget now to get all those new parts.... and I’m worried I am going to pay someone (labor) to fix my mess.
 
These trucks can get frustrating very quickly and a small job usually ends up being a "BIG" job! Just keep forging ahead. Sometimes you lose ground but eventually, you gain more than you lose.... :waytogo:

I did a write up on ball joint's but there should be some other stuff related to the wheel hub bearings that might help. Good luck!

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=282020
 
Just as a little tip....

Remove the screw that holds the hub locking sprocket in.
(The sprocket that pushes outward.)

Notch a line in it, with a Dremel or something, to make it accept a standard screwdriver.
I stripped 4 of the gawdamm phillips heads out. :doah:
 
Once you get the auto hubs off, do yourself a favor and throw them in the trash and get a set of Warn premium manual hubs. You can trust them to always work and they go back together much easier than the stock auto hubs. Hopefully you got the bearings preloaded right so they won't die too soon. If you get them too tight, they will overheat real quick.

So you're having trouble getting the snap ring back on the end of the stub shaft? Try reaching back behind the brake backing plate and grabbing the stub shaft u-joint and pulling it out towards you. It should pop forward just enough for the snap ring to go on. As for the big metal ring that goes around the inside of the hub body, you just have to work with it. You can see the groove where it goes. Try using two small flat blade screwdrivers or a little pick or something.

But I would say ditch the sorry auto hubs before they quit on you when you need them. Mine worked good until I took them apart and tried to put them back together. They're just too complicated in my opinion.
 
hey i just did this same thing and what i did was drill the allen screw a little then used a easy out to get it out worked great asfar as the snap ring and washer they go behind the locking hub all the way at the back infront of the big nut u are needing to tighten hope this helps if you need more info pm me
 
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