TeamVoorhees
Registered Member
It's easy. But there are a couple things that can go terribly wrong. So to save someone else time, money and inventing new curse words... a couple tips and tricks.
**This is NOT a how-to**
Get you some Kano KROIL. Put a little on every bolt the night before and let it set.
Crash plate bolts - there are 6. Three behind bumper. Easy to spot looking down from above.
Three more in the front of the cross member ahead of the tank.
Tank straps - Located same places, in between the crash plate bolts. Front may just be hooks holding on.
Cut you an access hatch if you didn't already. Plenty of reasons why.
My local (20 miles away) parts store didn't have the rubber pads for under the straps or where the tank touches the frame rails and it was going to take too long to order them. So I sliced up and old John Deere inner tube and used duct tape to hold it in place til the tank was secure.
Tank, straps, and crash plate back up, sending unit/pump in - For the love of Bowties, Do Not use the o-ring that comes with the tank or the sending unit. Go to any parts store, find the HELP section and buy the $9 kit. Throw away the too-big lock washer and too-big flat o-ring. Use the smaller locking washer and the genius "Can't Fall-In-The-Tank" o-ring.
It's very very hard to keep that plain o-ring in place while tightening the locking washer and holding the sending unit in place. It slides to one side, it gets pinched down into the tank on one side - or worse - it falls right in and you're so mad, aggravated and hot in 113 degree heat, you don't notice until you pump gas all over the parking lot.
There are a lot of tabs on top of the tank. Two are for the pump/sending unit to sit in, the other three are for where the tabs on the locking washer/nut will bump up against when you have it tight enough to compress the o-ring for a good seal.
Here's one reason the access hatch is awesome. I removed the entire sening unit/pump and fixed the o-ring right in the gas station parking lot, without having to drop the tank
**This is NOT a how-to**
Get you some Kano KROIL. Put a little on every bolt the night before and let it set.
Crash plate bolts - there are 6. Three behind bumper. Easy to spot looking down from above.
Three more in the front of the cross member ahead of the tank.
Tank straps - Located same places, in between the crash plate bolts. Front may just be hooks holding on.
Cut you an access hatch if you didn't already. Plenty of reasons why.
My local (20 miles away) parts store didn't have the rubber pads for under the straps or where the tank touches the frame rails and it was going to take too long to order them. So I sliced up and old John Deere inner tube and used duct tape to hold it in place til the tank was secure.
Tank, straps, and crash plate back up, sending unit/pump in - For the love of Bowties, Do Not use the o-ring that comes with the tank or the sending unit. Go to any parts store, find the HELP section and buy the $9 kit. Throw away the too-big lock washer and too-big flat o-ring. Use the smaller locking washer and the genius "Can't Fall-In-The-Tank" o-ring.
It's very very hard to keep that plain o-ring in place while tightening the locking washer and holding the sending unit in place. It slides to one side, it gets pinched down into the tank on one side - or worse - it falls right in and you're so mad, aggravated and hot in 113 degree heat, you don't notice until you pump gas all over the parking lot.
Here's one reason the access hatch is awesome. I removed the entire sening unit/pump and fixed the o-ring right in the gas station parking lot, without having to drop the tank
