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full time 4x4 not working????

Jzemp

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Hey this is my first blazer, its a '77 k-5 cheyenne with 35-12.50's and in great shape, except the paint fade. And it has a strong running small block 400 with 81,000 original miles. Here's my question. It looks like the truck has a full time 4x4 lock in it. It has no 2-4-4hI-4lo. No, its a Lloc-l-n-H-Hloc. Is this a full time 4x4 set up? I can see the front drive shaft rotating when I power brake it, but no forward pull. Was there any "bugs" that needed to be worked out. Any one know how to fix this, or am I just doing something wrong? I mean, what good is a 4x2 blazer in colorado...
Thanks in advance to all who have suggestions.
Jon
 
I have a 76 and stock is full time. Sounds like yours is the same. However, it could have been converted to part time aftermarket. Do you have manual locking hubs? If so, with the hubs locked and the case in Hi Loc or Low Loc you should have 4 wheel drive. In a converted case Hi and Low will be 2 wheel drive.

This gives a bit of explanation:http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=191687&highlight=transfer+case+conversion
 
I do not have manual lockers. I was thinking about putting in a set of warn locking hubs. from what I hear, those seem to be the best from what I can tell.
 
I do not have manual lockers. I was thinking about putting in a set of warn locking hubs. from what I hear, those seem to be the best from what I can tell.
 
Don't bother with locking hubs if it is still full time. If it has not been converted and you unlock the hubs you will have to run in hi-lock to move.
 
i would just drop a 205 transfercase in it and install some locking hubs.

BUT it sounds like you have another issue in your front axle. you say the front driveline is moving but your tires are not pulling. pull your front diff cover and take a look.
 
i would just drop a 205 transfercase in it and install some locking hubs.

BUT it sounds like you have another issue in your front axle. you say the front driveline is moving but your tires are not pulling. pull your front diff cover and take a look.

I would see if the front steering u-joints are turning before I pulled any diff covers!
 
I am watching my front driveline spin Where it goes into te front diff. Heres the problem, I can kinda see/feel the fronts wanting to pull a little bit, but its like it has a viscous clutch inside to let it slip a little bit but is acting like it is worn out, because it slightly wants to pull when I powerbrake it. If I need to pull the front diff cover, am I just looking to see that the front ring and pinion are matched up and that nothing is broken? Or what am I looking for in the front? There is also a 2 wire with a flattened out oval 2 pin connector that runs down through the 4x4 linkage to on top of the T-case, and i was following it last night only to find it goes to nowhere. The engine side pin is round with 2 flat pin connectors.... Does this sound familiar to anyone?
 
if theres chunks in the bottom of the dif would be the first thing to look at also the color of the fluid comming out. if its white or milky theres been water in it.

check the ring gear for any cracks or breaks.
 
I am watching my front driveline spin Where it goes into te front diff. Heres the problem, I can kinda see/feel the fronts wanting to pull a little bit, but its like it has a viscous clutch inside to let it slip a little bit but is acting like it is worn out, because it slightly wants to pull when I powerbrake it. If I need to pull the front diff cover, am I just looking to see that the front ring and pinion are matched up and that nothing is broken? Or what am I looking for in the front? There is also a 2 wire with a flattened out oval 2 pin connector that runs down through the 4x4 linkage to on top of the T-case, and i was following it last night only to find it goes to nowhere. The engine side pin is round with 2 flat pin connectors.... Does this sound familiar to anyone?

Are you doing this in high or high loc?
 
I am watching my front driveline spin Where it goes into te front diff. Heres the problem, I can kinda see/feel the fronts wanting to pull a little bit, but its like it has a viscous clutch inside to let it slip a little bit but is acting like it is worn out, because it slightly wants to pull when I powerbrake it. If I need to pull the front diff cover, am I just looking to see that the front ring and pinion are matched up and that nothing is broken? Or what am I looking for in the front? There is also a 2 wire with a flattened out oval 2 pin connector that runs down through the 4x4 linkage to on top of the T-case, and i was following it last night only to find it goes to nowhere. The engine side pin is round with 2 flat pin connectors.... Does this sound familiar to anyone?

This sounds like you are describing wire for the 4X4 dash indicator light. It connects to the the top side of the shift selector mechanism on top of the xfer case. It should come on when locked into 4wd.

Your truck is a 77? It will have a 203 chain driven xfer case. Hardcore built trucks run at least the gear driven 205. It's a stronger more reliable case.

A full time 203 is just a differential type gearing between the front and back axles when unlocked. Just like an open rear axle. Running in 2Hi is running with an open differential gearing allows power to go to either the front or rear axle. Power will go to the axle with the least resistance. Just like your normal passenger car's rear axle. Only one wheel is actually getting power.

Locking the xfer case is just like a locking selectable locker for an axle. It locks the differential in the transfer case so both the front and rear axles turn together.

Putting a PT kit in is cake.
 
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