Full Top Conversion Tech

[nvrenuf]

What did you use to measure when cutting the A pillars? Is there a seam or common locator I've missed? With the top of the frame being curved there doesn't seem to be a good point to measure down from.

What about the doors? Cut the top even with the vent window frame? The lower door cut appears to be higher that the bedside, no?

I don't have a top or donor doors to use and the tech article is good but there's no specifics about locating the cuts.

 

[RivMan]

I haven't done this yet, but I've been researching it in advance. I believe you can leave the original doors in place, and use the top of the doors to line up / locate the A-Pillers.

Not sure on the other questions though, I plan to find a set of donor doors to take measurements from.

-Rob

 

[nvrenuf]

I can see using the uncut doors to get the new frame in straight for welding but not the cut the A pillars.

 

[83ChevyK5Blazer]

you know about sleeving the a pillar with tube right?

 

[nvrenuf]

Yeah. 3/4" tube, I think?

 

[dremu]

I went the other way (abomination, I know), but I measured three places. I picked the center of the windshield, and then some arbitrary distance out from there on each side (I think two feet, but doesn't really matter.)

Then you cut, temporary fit the new header on, and trim the pillars until all three match.

Also, I'd advise going a bit over rather than under, i.e. the pillars a bit long, as the windshield gasket can fill up some slack. I think I did mine a bit tight and the gasket has already torn in one corner.

-- A

 

[nvrenuf]

I see what you're saying. I guess my fear is with the donor frame, it's already cut so I'm worried about trimming the pillar stubs too short.

 

[dremu]

I see what you're saying. I guess my fear is with the donor frame, it's already cut so I'm worried about trimming the pillar stubs too short.

Eh, cut them both stupid long and work your way down. Figure on a dozen or so test install/measure/remove cycles, you'll be fine.

At least your header can be moved by hand, versus my half-top, which was fricken heavy.

-- A

 

[nvrenuf]

At least your header can be moved by hand, versus my half-top, which was fricken heavy.

-- A

So true!

 

[nvrenuf]

Bump.

 

[bmxbryant9]

nvrenuf, I will try to take measurements of my blazer and the full vert doors for you. I think mine might still have the full vert frame with a cab welded over/into it

 

[bmxbryant9]

I finally made it over to the shop where the doors are, so here are some pictures in no order. If I missed anything let me know and I can get more.





Rubber to seal the door top meeting area










Up the Wing window view

 

[nvrenuf]

I missed these the other day - THANKS for the pics!

 

[jekquistk5]

Subscribed for my k5

 

[RivMan]

Great pics, thanks!

-Rob

 

[nvrenuf]

I'll add more pics I found when my kid is done with the computer. I may also change the thread title a little.

 

[tRustyK5]

The really critical thing is the front glass is able to go back in without drama...and those dimensions if correct will have everything else in the right place.

 

[nvrenuf]

The really critical thing is the front glass is able to go back in without drama...and those dimensions if correct will have everything else in the right place.

Rene, did you simply measure the windshield opening in several places or was there a common seam/marker on the body that you used to locate your cuts?

What bracing of the body would you do to prevent sag? I'm installing a cage at the same time, I'm planning to use some plates to tie the tub to the cage. What are your thoughts on tying the windshield posts to the cage A pillars? I feel like tying to the A pillar in 2 places (windshield post & kick panel) would be great for preventing sag but I don't want to transfer flex/body movement that would crack the windshield.

 

[nvrenuf]

To help with others searching for info I have changed the thread title. Here are some door pics I collected this week.

Special THANKS and credit to 70_K5 and Biggs Chevy on chevyk5blazer.com for these pics.

 

[nvrenuf]

More pics -

Note that on the upper door cut there are actually 3 different angles needed to duplicate a factory door and also use the factory type rubber cover.