Full Top Conversion Tech

tRustyK5 · Mar 28, 2015

I did similar to Dremu, measure the opening in the center, and two arbitrary points on either side of center. I used a sharpie to mark the points where I measured.

It's not the 'A' pillar itself that sags, it's the cowl. I would brace from the lower area of the door opening at the striker end, to high on the door opening at the hinge side...then begin the cutting. I would add a cross brace from 'B' pillar up high to other 'B' pillar on the other side. I had issues with spreading that I didn't find until after my cage was in. Took some focking around to get most of it, but due to the cage I couldn't get the last 1/2".

I would not tie the cage to the 'A' pillars...as I said it's not the 'A'pillars that sag but they do move around a little. I would consider adding a tie in point from your front cage bars to the cowl area (under dash about knee height)

tRustyK5 · Mar 28, 2015

BTW, those inner door plates and fiberglass door caps in the same area are gold. If you can get them, use them. The stuff from LMC is just disappointing in fit and quality.

rampage · Mar 28, 2015

tRustyK5 said:
BTW, those inner door plates and fiberglass door caps in the same area are gold. If you can get them, use them. The stuff from LMC is just disappointing in fit and quality.

… because they're plastic.

nvrenuf · Mar 28, 2015

Wow, that's good to know the tub will move so much just during cutting. I was only thinking about after the fact while driving or wheeling. Thanks
for the heads up.

I was lucky and scored a set of upper & lower factory caps that are in decent shape from a u-pull-it. I didn't think about getting the inner plate until later, I should have just bought the doors for parts and templates. I will not let the next set get away.

tRustyK5 · Mar 28, 2015

Yeah, once the roof is cut off you can move the cowl pretty much by hand...

Live and learn for me. If I ever do it again I know exactly how I'm gonna do it, and where the potential problem areas are.

nvrenuf · Mar 30, 2015

tRustyK5 said:
Yeah, once the roof is cut off you can move the cowl pretty much by hand...

Live and learn for me. If I ever do it again I know exactly how I'm gonna do it, and where the potential problem areas are.

After seeing your input (Thank You, btw) I'm changing my order of events, cage installed and tied to the tub FIRST then chop the top.

How would you do the next one? Typical vertical plates welded between the cage legs and the tub or something different.

tRustyK5 · Mar 30, 2015

I'd do it pretty much as I described earlier. Braced and cross braced, then tie the cowl to the A post on the cage. At the very least install some temp bracing you can build the cage around.

nvrenuf · Jan 18, 2016

Bump

I've (finally) started mocking the cage up and I'm curios about a possible "B" pillar tie in point. Kert's cage kit comes with a bracket to tie to the bolt hole the shoulder belt hangs from. Since this is gone I tried it on the seat belt retractor bolt hole about 15" or so up from the floor and it'll work. Is this point high enough to do any good with respect to tub flex? I may try to do another higher if I can get a nut solidly welded inside the pillar before I cap it.

tRustyK5 · Jan 18, 2016

Ooooh, this brings back more twisted memories for me. Before anything make sure your box sides aren't leaning out at the door striker area. I managed to get my cage in and welded before finding my box sides leaning out at the "B" area. :doah:

With my cage already in, all I could do was suck in the box sides in as tight as possible and weld in some bracing to hold it there. I'm sure your truck is more solid than mine was, but at least throw a tape measure on there and check it...

As for the brace to the cage, I'd like to see it higher, and at a better angle.