ChrisAwesome
1/2 ton status
Is it this manual that I should be getting? Haynes Chevrolet & GMC Haynes Repair Manual
CK5
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Fun Driver
- Thread starter ChrisAwesome
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Smurf is currently in my hands. Check its past record here:
https://ck5.com/forums/builds/74-k5-build-smurf.112/
I would get the GM manual. Its the best one. I have one for my 89.
eBay for the correct gm service manual. Toilet paper is more useful than the haynes and Chilton's manuals.
I'm spoiled as I'm so used to the gm stuff, but honestly it's like any other tool in the tool box. You pay more money for the right one vs the one that kinda does the job. Spend a little more and get the correct info.
Keep in mind you've got a lot of swapping that has occured with your truck so the correct manual for the year your truck is may not be applicable to some of the later model items that have been installed like the engine/TBI and the 700r4 trans.
I'm spoiled as I'm so used to the gm stuff, but honestly it's like any other tool in the tool box. You pay more money for the right one vs the one that kinda does the job. Spend a little more and get the correct info.
Keep in mind you've got a lot of swapping that has occured with your truck so the correct manual for the year your truck is may not be applicable to some of the later model items that have been installed like the engine/TBI and the 700r4 trans.
Let me check if I have the one you need.
I have a couple of these Haynes I can give you one no point in buying it.
Buy the gm if you can find it.
I have a 1990 shop manual and I use it for my 89, works on most of the 89 stuff.
I learned the hard way when I was first getting into trucks that the Chilton and Haynes are not detailed enough to be very useful. Now every vehicle I buy and plan to keep for a while gets a factory service manual from ebay. Costs about $100 usually and is worth it. The one I got for the wifes Grand Cherokee was 7 books! F-ing Chrysler.
Seriously, get the GM book, you will learn a ton from it.
Seriously, get the GM book, you will learn a ton from it.
ChrisAwesome
1/2 ton status
I got grease gun and Lucas Red "N" Tacky grease. Successfully put it into both driveshafts but I couldn't manage to fit the tube onto u-joint connector. Maybe if I turned the driveshaft then the nipple would have been more accessible? Or fully disconnected the driveshaft to access that u-joint nipple.
ChrisAwesome
1/2 ton status
I've just finished first test ride in this car since I got it. I was focused mostly on transmission shift points as I replaced and adjusted TV cable. I'm not sure if speedometer and tachometer are working correctly but I noticed that shift 1-2 was pretty gentle and occurred at about 12-14 mph & 2000 RPM. Is there some other method to confirm if shift points are ok? I really REALLY don't want to burn this transmission (700R4).
What you can check is when the engine is off, turn the throttle to full and see if the cable is tight, that means the throttle valve is all in.
ChrisAwesome
1/2 ton status
That's what I did. I was checking the tension on 50% throttle, 75% throttle and 100% throttle. It has very minimal slack in it with full throttle in. I'm pretty sure the hook on the other side inside the transmission is pulled all the way. Should the cable be extremely tight, light a guitar string type of thing?
I usually go for not being able to get any slack at full throttle, then if it's shifting too late at part throttle, just back it off one or 2 clicks. But don't do that before you give it a couple of days driving it to see how it is.
I think you should be good this way.
I had it like that.
ChrisAwesome
1/2 ton status
I noticed today that my RPMs fluctuate:
I would say they go between 800 and 1300. What do you think is the problem?
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Is this when cold or during driving or after a drive?
ChrisAwesome
1/2 ton status
It's about 5min running on P gear.
Also, something that's worrying me even more. I'm thinking TV cable should be tighter as during the test drive 1-2 shift is at about 13-17mph and if you look at the video below - at wide open throttle I can still get about extra quarter inch or less of slack. The problem is that I cannot back the cable anymore at the bracket. It's all the way back already.
Some sources claim that TV cable should be guitar string tight at wide open throttle.
Also, something that's worrying me even more. I'm thinking TV cable should be tighter as during the test drive 1-2 shift is at about 13-17mph and if you look at the video below - at wide open throttle I can still get about extra quarter inch or less of slack. The problem is that I cannot back the cable anymore at the bracket. It's all the way back already.
Some sources claim that TV cable should be guitar string tight at wide open throttle.
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If it has a little slack you need to move it.
It should be able to go all the way to the other side with the adjustment so it won't go easily it could be stuck.
About the high idle, is the return spring still on the throttle?
Without it it was doing it but when I put the spring it didn't do it again
Without it it was doing it but when I put the spring it didn't do it again
ChrisAwesome
1/2 ton status
But TV cable is adjusted all the way back, I cannot back it further. There is no way to make it any tighter at this point. What do I do then?
ChrisAwesome
1/2 ton status
In my case, the plastic part that moves back and forth on the bracket under the hood is all the way in - which as far as I understand makes the TV cable the tightest possible. But I still have some slack! I found little piece in Home Depot that I could attach to the end of TV cable to make it even shorter. What do you think?
Could it be that there is something wrong with my bracket?
Could it be that there is something wrong with my bracket?
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ChrisAwesome
1/2 ton status
My understanding is that there are 3 possible settings of TV cable.
- tension too soft at wide open throttle => transmission shifts too early, DANGEROUS
- tension correct at wide open throttle => transmission shifts correctly, CORRECT
- tension too tight at wide open throttle => transmission shifts late, NOT DANGEROUS
In my case, whether I pull the plastic insert all the way back or all the way front, the tension at wide open throttle is always too soft and transmission shifts too early. This is upsetting especially because I used OEM TV cable that should just work!
Maybe there is some other place for extra bulk adjustment other than big metal D button on TV cable mounting point? Or maybe the big metal bracket itself is adjustable?
Attaching pictures of the cable tension at wide open throttle while plastic insert being all the way back and all the way front.
- tension too soft at wide open throttle => transmission shifts too early, DANGEROUS
- tension correct at wide open throttle => transmission shifts correctly, CORRECT
- tension too tight at wide open throttle => transmission shifts late, NOT DANGEROUS
In my case, whether I pull the plastic insert all the way back or all the way front, the tension at wide open throttle is always too soft and transmission shifts too early. This is upsetting especially because I used OEM TV cable that should just work!
Maybe there is some other place for extra bulk adjustment other than big metal D button on TV cable mounting point? Or maybe the big metal bracket itself is adjustable?
Attaching pictures of the cable tension at wide open throttle while plastic insert being all the way back and all the way front.
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