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Garage Floor - CONCRETE R&R... Need Advice.

Crack repair...Sika Anchorfix 1 or 2, Sika Crackfix, ports and cork stoppers ( Will need one of each ever 4" - 6")
Glue the ports ( Every 4" x 6" ) and seal the outside of the crack with the Anchorfix.
Let dry
Inject the Crackfix starting from the bottom most port until it comes out the next port up
Seal the port you just injected with a cork stopper.
Continue injecting the next port up.
Let dry
Scrap off the ports and any excesses Anchorfix
Done
All the above epoxy come in 10oz tubes so all you need is a caulk gun.
If you can't find them, let me know and I can send some your way.

I would dowel the existing slap using 1/2" or 5/8" dowels and epoxy them in with the Anchorfix from from the crack repair.

You probably don't need to use any kind of bonding agent between the two...But it's cheap insurance... Just don't let it dry, it becomes a debonder when dry ( Unless you get the rewettable type )

The plastic under the concrete acts as a water barrier to stop the ground sucking the water out of the concrete letting it dry slower ( Something you want ) It also acts as a vapor barrier.

As far as expansion joint I would use the fiber type with a removable cap then a good quality caulk. That works the best for stopping water getting down into the joint. My next best is the rubber type, it lasts for ever but there's a chance it will let water by. The last one is just using the fiber type, it will last a couple of years before falling apart and your right back to where you are today.
 
FOR MUD said:
Crack repair...Sika Anchorfix 1 or 2, Sika Crackfix, ports and cork stoppers ( Will need one of each ever 4" - 6")
Glue the ports ( Every 4" x 6" ) and seal the outside of the crack with the Anchorfix.
Let dry
Inject the Crackfix starting from the bottom most port until it comes out the next port up
Seal the port you just injected with a cork stopper.
Continue injecting the next port up.
Let dry
Scrap off the ports and any excesses Anchorfix
Done
All the above epoxy come in 10oz tubes so all you need is a caulk gun.
If you can't find them, let me know and I can send some your way.

I would dowel the existing slap using 1/2" or 5/8" dowels and epoxy them in with the Anchorfix from from the crack repair.

You probably don't need to use any kind of bonding agent between the two...But it's cheap insurance... Just don't let it dry, it becomes a debonder when dry ( Unless you get the rewettable type )

The plastic under the concrete acts as a water barrier to stop the ground sucking the water out of the concrete letting it dry slower ( Something you want ) It also acts as a vapor barrier.

As far as expansion joint I would use the fiber type with a removable cap then a good quality caulk. That works the best for stopping water getting down into the joint. My next best is the rubber type, it lasts for ever but there's a chance it will let water by. The last one is just using the fiber type, it will last a couple of years before falling apart and your right back to where you are today.
Click to expand...



Thanks!

What about putting plastic on top of the concrete once it's fully smoothed-out and finished? I've seen city crews do that on new sidewalks, presumably to slow the drying time to make the cement dry harder and stronger??? :thinking:

Not sure if that's voodoo, or real science but I have a feeling you (or one of the other guys here) would know for sure! :waytogo:



-G
 
Greg72 said:
Thanks!

What about putting plastic on top of the concrete once it's fully smoothed-out and finished? I've seen city crews do that on new sidewalks, presumably to slow the drying time to make the cement dry harder and stronger??? :thinking:

Not sure if that's voodoo, or real science but I have a feeling you (or one of the other guys here) would know for sure! :waytogo:



-G
Click to expand...



I did that with my slab for my shop. I put plastic on top, then put straw on top of the plastic to give it a blanket. I poured in late october, so I did it to protect from frost overnight.
 
As soon as they get done finishing the slab put wet burlap (with plastic on top of it) and run a soaker hose between the two. Don't let it dry or your done.Keep it wet for 7 - 10 days. Make sure soak the burlap a couple days before hand and change the water a couples of times. If not the burlap can stain the concrete. The slower you let it dry, the strong the concrete will be.
Keep in mind you can do the same with a cure and seal applied to the surface. You don't want to do this if your planning to add a penetrating seal on to help stop staining and salt damage without removing the cure first.
This is what I used after I wet cured my shop.... http://euclidchemical.com/fileshare/ProductFiles/TechData/UltraSil_Li_Plus.pdf
 
FOR MUD said:
I forgot there one penetrating cure you can put on right after they get done finishing... http://www.chemmasters.net/TDS/SilencureSRT.pdf Might be a little bit harder to find and a bit pricey...But it saves the wet cure or removable of a cure and seal.
Click to expand...


Cool! Looks to be around $230 for a 5Gallon pail. Can I use this on the existing concrete as well or is this for "new" cement only?

What sort of finish does it leave....shiny? dark? or is it just an invisible sealer? The new apron is going to extend right under the garage doors so there's a 3 foot band of cement that will be constantly exposed to sunlight (UV)... any concerns about that or is this stuff indoor/outdoor approved?


-G
 
Invisible finish. It'll go on white so you can see where you sprayed then dry clear.
Yes you can apply to old concrete. Might use a little more per sf as it will soak in. Just make sure it's clean and dry.
We just got approved with the Delaware DOT last for use on new curbs and sidewalks to protect against salt damage.
It can be used out and inside.

Shame your not closer I could have saved you $65.00.:D
 
FOR MUD said:
Invisible finish. It'll go on white so you can see where you sprayed then dry clear.
Yes you can apply to old concrete. Might use a little more per sf as it will soak in. Just make sure it's clean and dry.
We just got approved with the Delaware DOT last for use on new curbs and sidewalks to protect against salt damage.
It can be used out and inside.

Shame your not closer I could have saved you $65.00.:D
Click to expand...


I haven't bought anything yet!! :deal: :haha:




So I got hold of the local E-ZCrete franchise and they will do small-batch delivery to my house (1 yard minimum) for $200/yd and will only charge to the nearest .25 yard that is acutally used. That seems decent and he said he can mix onsite and add whatever "additives" I want (fiberglass, etc) and we can go from a 4000psi mix up to whatever I want.... slump 6 or 7.... sound pretty flexible.

He gave me the name of a local concrete finisher that he has worked with a few times on deliveries, so I'll see if I can get him interested in taking on a small job like this.


Then it's a mad scramble to get all the prep-work done so that the area is 100% ready for them to get in & get out!!! :waytogo:


-G
 
I would still make sure you dont have an underlying issue with crack.

Also theres no reason to cover a slab in august. Tenting is good in colder months for frost protection but so not necessary any other time. There's not enough heat containment to worry about soaking, thats more of a wall thing when all that concrete is bottled up inside forms. If you want more strength just get 4000psi mix instead of 3500psi. Honestly all your strength is going to come from pouring it at the proper slump.
 
Stomis said:
I would still make sure you dont have an underlying issue with crack.

Also theres no reason to cover a slab in august. Tenting is good in colder months for frost protection but so not necessary any other time. There's not enough heat containment to worry about soaking, thats more of a wall thing when all that concrete is bottled up inside forms. If you want more strength just get 4000psi mix instead of 3500psi. Honestly all your strength is going to come from pouring it at the proper slump.
Click to expand...


Thanks. So I've got an appointment with the concrete finisher on Thursday AM. He will check for anything I'm missing and tell me what other prep work I need to do. The actual pour won't happen until probably a week from now based on schedules... So I will have time to do the rebar work and foundation epoxy crack repair.

So.... If you guys want to give me the specs to ask for in the concrete itself. (Add fiberglass, slump 6, 4000psi, etc) let me know so I can sound like I know what I'm talking about. :haha:


-G
 
3500 psi interior slab mix. Ask your mason if he wants retarder or super p. He may have a preference and I'd be willing to be he won't want to sit it with retarder in it.
 
Stomis said:
3500 psi interior slab mix. Ask your mason if he wants retarder or super p. He may have a preference and I'd be willing to be he won't want to sit it with retarder in it.
Click to expand...


What about the fiberglass additive? Is that what the "Super P" is? :dunno:


-G
 
Fiberglass additive is like adding a thousand tiny pieces of rebar mixed into the concrete. All of the little strands act like reinforcement. Not really going to change the overall strength of the slab, but it helps hold it together during heat cycling and will aid in preventing cracks.
 
Another thing to consider is having somewhere that all of equipment can be rinsed clean once done. This includes the mixer. Some locations may require a containment system of some sort to avoid ground contamination. A really cheap and common practice is to buy a medium sized (~ 3-5 foot diameter) plastic kiddy pool that everything can rinse into and then you let all of the moisture dry off and throw it away.
 
I understand the concerns about wanting to get a nice straight edge for the old cement, but I'm not sure how I can do that. How do I sawcut up to the foundation walls? I don't think I can get a sawblade close enough, and I'm going to end up with a ragged edge somewhere no matter what I do? :dunno:


-G[/QUOTE]

Grinder with a concrete wheel for the areas you can`t get close enough to with the saw.
 
max 02 said:
I understand the concerns about wanting to get a nice straight edge for the old cement, but I'm not sure how I can do that. How do I sawcut up to the foundation walls? I don't think I can get a sawblade close enough, and I'm going to end up with a ragged edge somewhere no matter what I do? :dunno:


-G
Click to expand...

Grinder with a concrete wheel for the areas you can`t get close enough to with the saw.[/QUOTE]


WORST ATTEMPT AT QUOTING EVER. :haha:


So do I truly need to cut all the way through the existing slab (4" - 6") or would it be acceptable if the saw only reached down a couple of inches?? It sounds like the reason for the straight edge is not so much for effective bonding of the new cement, but to simplify the troweling and blending of the new cement to the old without making a big, sloppy mess across the jagged seam? :dunno:

I guess I'll find out tomorrow. The cement finishing guy will be here in the morning and I'm sure he will tell me how concerned he is about it.


-G
 
Perfect time to get rid of that center post with a new garage door header. A nice 16' door sure would make life easier. If you don't have a place to put your 20" Apex after.....send it to me. :D


MAW..:saweet: :pimp:
 
Greg72 said:
Grinder with a concrete wheel for the areas you can`t get close enough to with the saw.
Click to expand...


WORST ATTEMPT AT QUOTING EVER. :haha:


So do I truly need to cut all the way through the existing slab (4" - 6") or would it be acceptable if the saw only reached down a couple of inches?? It sounds like the reason for the straight edge is not so much for effective bonding of the new cement, but to simplify the troweling and blending of the new cement to the old without making a big, sloppy mess across the jagged seam? :dunno:

I guess I'll find out tomorrow. The cement finishing guy will be here in the morning and I'm sure he will tell me how concerned he is about it.


-G[/QUOTE]
One reason to cut to full depth would be the concrete would be a uniform depth and dry at the same rate. If not the thinner parts will want to dry faster.
As for cutting it straight, I think it would be more of a cosmetic thing than a strength issue....Plus if it does crack there, it'll be a nice straight crack not a jagged one.
 
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