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Gearing questions(4/23 What a Deal on a D60 and 14FF)

Payday is Tuesday, and that night I will be a paid member. I became registered to see what was here, and after reading your build and doing a lot of searching, and a few posts of my own, this site has already been invaluable to me.
 
lectric80 said:
Payday is Tuesday, and that night I will be a paid member. I became registered to see what was here, and after reading your build and doing a lot of searching, and a few posts of my own, this site has already been invaluable to me.
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:waytogo:

Once you become a paying member, you'll gain PM capability. That's private messaging. If you need anything, feel free to contact me. I'll help the best I can. If I know, I'll tell ya. If I don't, I'll tell you that too, but I will find out and get back to ya on it.

Again, welcome to CK5!

Manny
 
Well I will tell you manny, this is going to be a slow process. That sounds bad, but it is because I don't believe in going into debt for this. That is what really impressed me about the way you have built yours, you didn't go into debt to build what you have. I will probably start buying a few parts at a time, as I can afford them, then do a big build for putting it all together.

The plan:

Phase 1 - Suspension, tires, and new axles
Phase 2 - Interior - Complete redo with new wiring and uphostery
Phase 3 - Body - All body panels showing rust will be replaced, and fresh paint added. I don't want to give it away just yet, but it is going to be a unique paint scheme

And I totally agree with you on your relationships with those you meet doing this type of work. I spent January and February with my wife's Beretta and a new Lumina swapping the motor and trans out of the Beretta. I had a friend that I have known for many years, allow me to use his shop for a month and a half. I had a warm place to do this very involved swap. Then when I finally finished the swap, my Astro van lost it's 700r4, and it has been parked inside the shop ever since. I nearly have the trans rebuilt and should have it back on the road by next week. Now I have my 80 K5 that is going to undergo some major transformations over the next year or so, and he is helping with the work, and providing a secure, dry place to work. He owns a 79 K5 that I helped drop a 454 into, and he knows these vehicles very well, so his knowledge is just as valuable as his shop. Plus it is a electrical shop, and he has already helped me with the alternator. It had a bad regulator, and he tore it down, handed me the parts, and ensured I got it reassembled correctly. He is currently working on a new 160 amp to place in the K5, and he warranty's all his work without question. I protect that relationship, as it has saved my backside many times when things have failed and put me in a bad situation.
 
Now a new question. I am currently running some old American Racing solid aluminum wheels. Since I am going to be going to the new to me 3/4 ton axles, and need to buy some new wheels, what seems to be the best backspacing to keep the tires from hanging out the sides and still not rub the fenders or hit tires underneath during turning. I want to stick with a 12.5" tire or possibly a 13.5" wide tire. I plan to put the new axles, 4" suspension lift, and new tires and wheels on, all at one time. I am looking at possibly hanging on with 33's initially, but may go to 35's with all this work.
 
lectric80 said:
Now a new question. I am currently running some old American Racing solid aluminum wheels. Since I am going to be going to the new to me 3/4 ton axles, and need to buy some new wheels, what seems to be the best backspacing to keep the tires from hanging out the sides and still not rub the fenders or hit tires underneath during turning. I want to stick with a 12.5" tire or possibly a 13.5" wide tire. I plan to put the new axles, 4" suspension lift, and new tires and wheels on, all at one time. I am looking at possibly hanging on with 33's initially, but may go to 35's with all this work.
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If you are upgrading to 3/4 ton running gear that means that you are going to go with a 14 bolt rear, preferrably a full-floater, not a semi, due to it's strength and that it will not leave you stranded if you bust an axle, and either:

A) 10 Bolt front running D44 (3/4 ton) outers

b) D44 front running 8 lug pattern

Both axles will be 8 lug pattern. Very little rim selection available in 15x??x?? 8 lug. You'll see more in the 16 and 17 range. STAY AWAY from 16.5 tires and rims unless you plan to run beadlocks. 16.5's do not have the double safety bead and are notorious for breaking beads easily.

Most common backspacing to "tuck" the tires in is 4.5". That's what I am running on my rig with 15x39.5x17's. It brings the tires in nicely with only a little sticking out of the fender wells. Just enough for me to get the sides of the truck all gooey with slung MUD :D:D:D:D:D:D:D

I'm not saying that 4.5 is your route, but more than likely it will be since it's the most common. Others will give their experiences too. Just one man's perspective.

Manny
 
That is why I ask the questions manny. I have seen the shots of your truck, and love the way the tires are tucked in. 4.5 should work, but I am watching for others opinions as well. I planned on going with 16" wheels, and have seen the problems with 16.5's as my dad had a set on his high boy.

Definately looking for a full float rear. Will replace the front with a 3/4 ton D44, as I want the gearing to match front and rear.
 
Just fyi, Later model 3/4-ton trucks had 8-lug 10-bolts and are much easier to find. You don't absolutely have to look for a D44. They're both the same from the "C" out, anyway.

Off topic: I have family in Tooele! What are the chances?
 
I hope that your family isn't from Tooele, as we are all a little strange around here. I am not sure I am following you, I was assuming that if I found the 3/4 ton 8 bolt axles and could take both front and rear that it would be a Dana 44 front, which is basically what my Blazer has in it now, just with the 1/2 ton 6 bolt.
 
lectric80 said:
I hope that your family isn't from Tooele, as we are all a little strange around here. I am not sure I am following you, I was assuming that if I found the 3/4 ton 8 bolt axles and could take both front and rear that it would be a Dana 44 front, which is basically what my Blazer has in it now, just with the 1/2 ton 6 bolt.
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No, they just moved there in the past few years. They're all from MI.

Yes, you can take both axles from whatever truck you find but if it's a later model (after like '77, I think. Don't quote me on the exact year), the front will be a 10-bolt, not a Dana 44. What year is your Blazer? Are you sure it's a Dana up front?
 
Well now I have to go clear the grease off the webs to be certain. I had been assuming it was a D44 but now since it is an 80 I am wondering what it truly is. I will go take a look before it gets dark.
 
lectric80 said:
Well now I have to go clear the grease off the webs to be certain. I had been assuming it was a D44 but now since it is an 80 I am wondering what it truly is. I will go take a look before it gets dark.
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It's probably a 10-bolt. That's what was in my '80. You don't have to clear off the webs, though. Just look at the cover. A 10-bolt cover is almost perfectly round. Looks like this:

Front_axle.JPG


A Dana 44 will have more flat sides. Like this:
Dana44.JPG
 
Well, now you see why I am asking lots of questions. It is most definately a 10 bolt, there are no markings on the webs, no grease either.

So now the question is which is going to be the stronger of the two. A ten bolt corporate, or the Dana 44. The way UDOT dumps salt on the roads there are very few trucks that are still on the road, so finding either setup really wouldn't be that hard. I just want to make it as strong as I can without having to go to a Dana 60.
 
Ok so I have been looking at Rough Country for a 4" lift kit. I want to replace the rear springs, but it is asking me whether I have the 52 or 56 inch springs. What is the correct way to measure these so that I can order the correct springs. I would love the 56's since that would provide more flex, but I always thought the front were 52's and the rears were 56, now I am not certain.
 
10-bolt and Dana 44 are pretty equal in strength. I heard the 10-bolt axle shafts are slightly thicker at the "necked-down" portion but not enough to make much of a difference.

Personally, I prefer 10-bolts because they're easier to work on and parts are cheaper. And since you already have a 10-bolt, if you get another 10-bolt, you'll already have a lot of spare parts (axle shafts, spindles, knuckles, diff gears, etc). The only difference between a 1/2-ton and a 3/4-ton 10-bolt is the hub/rotor assembly and the backing plate. The calipers are also different but they have the same mounting points, so you can use 1/2-ton calipers on 3/4-ton brakes, if you want.

Springs: Blazers have 52" rear springs. You can change to 56" springs but you'll have to move your hangers. All factory front springs are the same size, as far as I know.
 
Well that answers all my questions. I have a friend who is offering me a set of 3.73 1/2 ton axles out of his 82 K10 for 75 for the set. I will probably pick those up to get me by unless/until I can find a good set of 3/4 ton's with a full float rear. Once I put the suspension lift on it will be an easy operation to change axles since the u-bolts will be new. Then I just have to get me a heavier driveline for the rear right?

I did verify that the tag on the transfer shows that it is an NP205 so that is definately not going anywhere. Now just to source the new 700r4 to replace the old TH350.

The hubs on the front are Spicers, and since I can't afford to buy the new Warns I want, anyone have any ideas why they push in when turned to lock, but do not pop out. I have been able to confirm they are locking in by placing the front on stands and locking them in. Once locked in, turning one tire in a clockwise direction results in the other turning counter. With them in free, each wheel can spin without spinning the other.
 
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Serpentine belt conversion

I want to convert this 350 to a serpentine setup. I have been searching the forums and it appears that I need the brackets, AC, water pump, clutch, and fan. I may just go ahead and steal the fan off my 4.3 Astro, as it probably will never be on the road again. If I decide to trash it, can the mount bracket be used on my 350? I know it is the steel one piece horseshoe, as I replaced the motor two years ago. I know that the compressor I have is new, as it was replaced with the motor, since it had to be removed to remove the motor. This is one I have never done, but I hate the v-belts, and serpentine has never given me a problem.

I know everything on my Astro is new except the water pump, I replaced the PS pump two months ago before the tranny went out, AC within two years, alternator rebuilt from my friends shop, and I can eliminate the AIR pump that is currently on my Blazer. I hate to give up on my Astro but the thing isn't worth the cost of getting a replacement tranny. :(

My question above on the Spicer hubs hasn't been answered so if anyone has any ideas on that, it would be greatly appreciated. Should have pics of the K5 by the end of the week.
 
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Spicer hubs are great. I've been running the same pair of hubs on two different trucks with no problems. The pushing in you're noticing is just a little movement that happens because of they way they're designed. There's nothing wrong with it.
Keep 'em till they bust (if they ever do). Pull them apart, clean them up and re-grease them and you'll probably never have to replace them.

Everything on the 4.3 will transfer. The 4.3 is just a 5.7 with two cylinders taken out.
 
Thanks for all the help guys. I planned on doing a complete tear down and rebuild of the hubs this week. I just don't know how long it has been since someone actually did it on the beast, and I don't want to be off the road when it gives out because of lack of grease.

Well should have the van's tranny back in this weekend to attempt to see how bad it really is, then I can decide if I want to strip some things for the Blazer.
 
Ok so a friend of mine who is providing me with the replacement power tailgate, found a set of 3/4 ton axles from a 77. I would be willing to take them but the front is a D60. I know about the crossover steering and High steer options, but is it worth picking up these axles. I really don't want to make major changes to the steering system, so will my stock steering setup work with the D60? I know that the D60 is expensive to rebuild, but should I just pick up the 14bff, and then convert my 10b to 3/4 ton outers?
 
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