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Gen I engine crossmember install question

NV_K5

NV_K5

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So I ordered a first gen engine crossmember kit from DIY4X because when I last replaced my rear main seal and pan gasket it was a huge pain to remove the stock crossmember and even then (October '07) the motor mounts look questionable. I've replaced all the other rubber on the whole truck with poly because it was either missing or completely worked, so this seemed to be the next logical step.

So here's the question - has anyone else installed one of these? http://www.diy4x.com/engine.htm

Do you have any suggestions? Pics? Advice? Like it? Hate it?

It's supposed to be here on Monday so dont be shy - I already own it just need information on install and "tricks" for gettin' her done.
 
Don't have one myself...but thinking about putting one in when I eventually pull my engine out for work. I know that RGV72Blazer has one. Maybe he'll chime in.
 
Got your PM :D

So here's the question - has anyone else installed one of these?
Yes

Do you have any suggestions? Advice?
Easy install...we had trouble lining up my motor because we had to push the ass end of the motor up to line it up with the motor mounts since my tranny/tcases aren't in yet. For a while, thought the motor mounts weren't going to line up :haha: The only other thing I can advise, is don't overtighten the bolts that go into the block, broke one off in the block, so I'll probably end up tacking it in there...or use higher grade bolts.

EDIT: I forgot to mention that my oil pan rubbed on the x-member a good amount to where it put a small dent in it. I know one of the other members on here that installed it as well did not have clearance issues. But when I swapped to my Mildon oil pan, there were no clearance issues anymore.


Pics?
If you need more, let me know...have a few somewhere from when we actually dropped the motor in...
IMG_2751.jpg

IMG_2414.jpg

IMG_3509.jpg



Doesn't Really show anything, but you can see how the motor is in relation to the rest of the drivetrain...
IMG_3549.jpg




Like it?
Yep, lot more beefy than the stocker

Hate it?
See above :D


I think you'll be happy with your choice...
 
Thanks for the reply and the info. I received my kit yesterday (Fri) and primed and painted it, everything is seriously stout really nice.

I took pictures and have all this ready to go but ran into a snag at the end. My LMC pan is hitting and I cannot finish the install because the local Kragen and Carquest have pans the same dimensions. What pan did you finally end up running?
 
NVK5,

We looked at altering the fixture tonight to allow a different, "LOOSER" bend and not tucking so tight to the pan. You guys that have installed more recently than I, Is there anything that would interfere with bringing the bends out some and then sharper allowing a smidge more room around the pan?

It's all in the pan shape. Square corners hit while the rounded ones pass. Big block engines have the same pan variances. When originally built we kept it high and tight.
 
My perticular situation with an 8" lift I have 9 inches from he top of the D44 vent tube to the bottom of the Crossover kit and 12 Inches from the left axle tube to the same point. Other than that I cannot imagine anything else that would be interfered with.

Again- this kit is far better than the GM stock pos.

Gen1 013.jpg
 
I think it should be kept as is...for some reason my round pan still made contact with the x-member...the Milodon pan is square and there is no interference...maybe b/c it was the prototype Kert :D...But anyway I like the way it's tucked up nice and high especially since I'll be running hi steer/full hydro on mine.


This is the pan I'm running: http://www.milodon.com/oil-pans/off-road-oil-pans-chevy.asp
 
RGV72BLAZER said:
I think it should be kept as is...for some reason my round pan still made contact with the x-member...the Milodon pan is square and there is no interference...
Click to expand...

So your new Milodon pan rubs or not? You'd rather have it rub than fit corretly for anyone who may be planning on purchasing just a crossmember and not a new pan, gasket set, oil and a crossmember in addition to all the extra labor?
 
Last edited:
The bad part is, Most guys have no problems and it clears fine. Like stated above we can change the shape of the tube a bit to gain more clearance, I just want to be sure we're not sacrificing anything anywhere else.
 
Mine was off by more than that. How'd you drop in the motor? Did you use one of those levelers? We finally figured out that we had to drop the motor in then I had to lay on the ground, on my back, and lift the a$$ end of the motor with my legs to level it out...then the motor mounts lined up perfectly.
 
Here's the scoop

Ok so here's the whole deal.

1. Ordered crossover kit and wasn't sure when I'd get it so I called, Kert tells helper/wife? that the cutting table was down and part received and working through the weekend to fill orders. Sure enough Monday received shipping advice with an eta of Monday the 4th. Received on Friday the 1st which is always a nice.

2. Primed Friday night:
HPIM0265.jpg


3. Painted early Saturday AM and install bushings and sleeves:

HPIM0268.jpg


4. Setup and hoist motor weight off crossmember:

HPIM0280.jpg


5. Removed existing GM stamped steel crossmember:

HPIM0274.jpg


&

HPIM0270.jpg


&

HPIM0283.jpg


6.Install new motor mounts:

HPIM0285.jpg


& Driver side.

HPIM0287.jpg


7. LOOSELY install channel brackets for fitment of crossmember

HPIM0286.jpg


8. Lower motor into place and realize the pan is preventing the motor from dropping into line:

HPIM0290.jpg


&

HPIM0291.jpg


&

HPIM0300.jpg


If you have an LMC oil pan or something like it you'll need to go back to between step 6 & 7 and replace the pan, gaskets and oil. :rolleyes:
 
Bummer.

A new set of motor mount brackets with a relocated hole would probably be the simplest solution....



:usaflag:
 
So what was the problem? You're black colored oil pan looks much closer to the stock crossmember than mine does. I was thinking about getting one so I'd love to hear what the solution was.
 
Unless you have a stock pan - It isn't going to fit, and even then it may or may not. No LMC, appearently some Molodon pans and appearently some stock pans.

email to Kert:

Kert,

The pan I started off with was an LMC pan $40.00, I took a pipe to it to see if
"rounding the corners" would work. Then I bought a new gasket set around $40
and a $20 pan from the junk yard. Then I bought the same pan as the guy on
CK5.com for $90.00.

There is a serious flaw in your jig or just this crossmember. In addition to
the money I spent I've put over 8 hours into "swapping pans" and have had
enough. I haven't posted anything up on CK5.com nor pirate4x4 until you have a
chance to make this right.

Pics on photobucket: http://s219.photobucket.com/albums/cc43/JoeChoat/K5/

Joe

Email I got from Kert:

Joe,

Feel free to return the crossmember for a refund or a replacement. If for a
replacement, we can attempt to bend the crossmember differently to help you
in fitting this. There are lots of things that can contribute to the
crossmember hitting the pan.

First of which, we may have made a mistake on your crossmember. With our
fixturing it's doubtful. The crossmembr tube is controled on the inside of
the shape in three places plus the notches have to line up for the larger
bushing tube.

I see you have some photos of a stock pan, have your put that pan on? It
would appear it has far more rounded corners than either fo your aftermaket
pans. I've seen pictures of the other pans but not the stock one.

Kert

Reply:

I'm severely disappointed in what should have been at most a 3 hour install and
$180.00 turned into about 8 hours of installation(s) 80 miles driving time, over
$300.00 in parts, since I cannot return the pan to Summit since my old pan now
has divots in it, and the stock from the junk yard - well you've seen it. All
this just to go to Kragen and buy there Indian $7.00 motor mount.

Joe


Reply:
Kert,

I will be returning the crossmember and no I won't be attempting a re-install.

No, I didn't take any pictures of the stock pan that fit exactly like the
Milodon, If I could have ripped the f-ing pan off without unbolting it before
running to Summit racing 1 1/2 hours away and shoving it somewhere I would have.

There cannot be that many variables, there are pre-drilled holes in the frame
and your C inserts only fit one way.



I got $159.91 back after Paypal fees etc. I did accidently keep the 6 bolts for the block - sorry.
 
Wow - sorry that was such a pain for you - that sucks!

I'm assuming this kit just bolts in the stock mounting location? - You mentioned that you used the pre-drilled holes - is that correct?
 
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