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General Question Gear Ratio Wise And How Are You By The Way?

blackandgold51

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New Orleans, LA
C20 Dually 4 Door 454 TH400 3 Speed Automatic. Edlebrofk Carburated 4 Barrel

What you think about these shift points?

1st Gear until shifted at 24 Miles Per Hour

2nd Gear until Shifted at 34 Miles Per hour

How fast in 3rd gear to get after 2nd gear?

Plus, which gear ratio for that ?

Also. with add-ons: Dual Headers Longtube which are already on the vehicle with true dual Straight exhaust, MSD Distributor, MSD Spark Wires, Top of the line Spark Plugs, High Air Flow Eldelbrock Intake Manifold, Cold Air Intake, Maybe some Heads of high flow for are such as Vortec Heads or similar
 
It's also going to depend on how hard you're on the gas...and has your speedo been recalibrated for whatever tires and gears you have?
 
Those shift points seem a little high to me, but not enough info. How hard are you accelerating? If very little throttle then these shift points seem high.
 
Those shift points seem a little high to me, but not enough info. How hard are you accelerating? If very little throttle then these shift points seem high.
Wondering which gear ratio is better, because when I get on the Interstate , I can only go almost to 65mph.

With the the engine going high in rpms
 
Do u know what your current gears arr
Also, the other day , after check an Engine knock noise, come to close examination that it's not coming from the engine itself, it's actually coming from the Torque Converter , especially after I got underneath the engine and checked and got up, and listened under the hood which the sound is coming from both sides behind the engine and firewall
 
Do you have a tach to actually see the engine RPM or just based on sound? I know 4.10's were pretty common factory axle gears and that would put you over 3,000 RPM at 70 mph...and in that truck with headers and a dual exhaust (assuming loud mufflers) it would be singing pretty good.

FYI - if you plugged in numbers and said 2,270 rpm at 70 mph that is with 3.08 axle gears, and very unlikely that is the gearing in that truck
 
You can check the torque converter bolts and condition of the flexplate pretty easily. There's a cover to remove that's bolted to the transmission right behind the oil pan. Not sure on your transmission, but typical 4 to 6 bolts. Once that's off you can see the flexplate - a flat disc with teeth around the perimeter - and the torque converter - looks like a big donut.

There are bolt heads on the engine side of the flexplate that attach it to the torque converter. With the cover off, you can rotate the engine to get to the bolts 1 at a time.

If they are loose, take them all the way out and put them back in with loctite on the threads.
 
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Yes I can explain that.
You'll need a good rolling floor jack.
So this is C20 2 wheel drive is easier than 4wd.

Is your flexplate cracked or missing teeth?
You will need to get the truck on jack stands at least the front. If you have access to a lift even better.
Make sure to block rear tires before jacking front end up.
Next disconnect the negative battery cable.
remove Drive shaft from rear differential, if two piece drive shaft remove center support bearing from cross member. Tape around the rear ujoint to keep ujoint caps on. I tie the drive shaft to frame, keep it out of my ways and from dragging on the ground.
Remove the inspection cover at lower trans bell housing. 4 bolts.
You will see the flex plate and torque converter. Remove torque converter bolts. You will need to turn engine crank shaft to get to all the bolts. I use a 5/8 deep 1/2" drive socket on the center bolt at front of crank, a long handled rachet. 3 or 6 depending on regular or heavy duty. Reach up and push torque converter into trans, should move about 1/4 inch or less.
9/16" swivel socket 3/8" drive with 24"( or more) 3/8" drive extension.
Remove the upper bell housing bolts 4 ea. Remove the dip stick then from underneath remove dip stick tube. Have a drip pan under tube area fluid may leak.
Trans cooler lines. These are 1/2 flair nuts. They can be damaged fairly easy, maybe already. Give them a good look over, you'll need a short 1/2" wrench, and maybe 1/2 flair fitting crows foot. These lines are the worst part of the job, be patient esp when putting them back. Once disconnected the will drain some fluid.
Disconnect shift linkage.
Ok so now you will need 6" long 3/8" by 16 threads per inch bolts 2 ea.
Remove lower 2 bell housing bolts and use the 6" bolts bottom 2 bell housing holes.
Place floor jack under trans use a flat piece of wood to disperse the load.
Remove rear trans mount and cross member.
Now you can slide the trans back @5 to 6 ".
You may need to lower the tail so the bell housing can clear the fire wall.
Keep an eye on your engine fan and radiator shroud, and distributor cap.
You may need to remove cap an loosen shroud.
When you get the trans slid back, you will be able to get to the flex plate bolts. 11/16" socket, you need to hold the motor from rotating. These bolts have 60 ft pds of torque and thread locker. Once removed you will be able to remove old flex plate and install new one. The flex plate only lines 1 way with holes in crank shaft.
Use blue lock tight on bolts torque to 60 ft pds.
Reverse disassemble to put back together.
Note install torque converter bolts finger tight, then go around again remove apply thread lock and torque to 46 ft pds.
Hope this helps if you have questions feel free to ask.
 

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