Getting a 241 or 208 above the frame rails (updated/picture)

[CyberSniper]

OK, I clocked my NP208 as far as the clocking ring would go. The front output is still lower than the rear output and therefore the case hangs below the frame. In order to get the transfer case above the frame I guess I'll have to "lift" it up by putting a spacer between the adapter and the crossmember.

Is this how everyone else does it? I'm rather worried about my rear slip yoke driveshaft and oil pump pickup.

 

[sapper]

This is the set up that has not been out done to my knowledge. It is Esteban86K5's old truck.

 

[mikey_d05]

I believe esteban lifted the whole drivetrain like 2" and if I recall admitted that his driveline angles were terrible. IMO if you make a flat skidplate like that and just cut out a patch for the lower edge of the t-case and boxed it in you could acheive the desired result without crazy angles.

 

[mrhoes]

I have the same problem with my clocking ring, I am going to make a new crossmember and I think I am just going to push up the t-case so it will be above the bottom of the frame. There is no oil pump in a 208 but there is in a 241, being clocked I wouldnt worry about oiling issues from what I have heard.

 

[sled_dog]

yeah but you don't want to be throwing off all your angles because your engine now sits perfectly level instead of slanted back and down as it does in basically all rear wheel drive vehicles.

 

[big83chevy4x4]

here is when i had my tcase clocked.

you can see that it is just bearly above the bottom of the frame. the crossmember was the big thing to get it there, 2" angle iron on the ends with 1.5" round tube and 1/4" steel bend in a wide U to fit the stock mount. the 1/4" was welded to the bottom of the tube so the mount was even with the bottom of the frame.

here is the crossmember that i built for it.

 

[CyberSniper]

My crossmember is made out of 2x.25 angle. The two pieces of angle are separated by 1.75". It is then ground down so the two mounting pieces of the factory crossmember (using the 70s-84 C-bushings) fit over the top and then the bushings can go between the angle from underneath. I ended up grinding the angle for the exhaust and am going to have to do it for the driveshaft if I don't lift the transfer case off the crossmember. Right now I have a "factory" rearward slope.

The goal is to run flat skidplates. Since I have a "curvy" K5 frame instead of a nice pickup frame I'm going to run two skidplates. One in front of the crossmember and one behind. While it isn't all that critical that the transfer case be above the frame it sure would be a lot simpler. Right now the SM465 hangs well below the frame anyway and so does the stock Y-pipe. But, that stuff is all at the front and pretty well protected by the front springs. It's the aluminum transfer case that I'm worried about. But, my driveline angle in the rear is already pretty severe.

If I hadn't moved my powertrain back 2.5" it'd actually be better covered by the frame.

 

[CyberSniper]

Well, it's been done since Friday. It didn't seem to help me much when my forties disappeared under the goo though.

 

[thatK30guy]

Looks like your front springs don't have anywhere to flex anymore since the spring eye end is resting under the frame with the shackle useless now.

What do you need to do to fix that? Move the shackle bracket backwards more?

 

[CyberSniper]

Looks like your front springs don't have anywhere to flex anymore since the spring eye end is resting under the frame with the shackle useless now.

What do you need to do to fix that? Move the shackle bracket backwards more?

I only have 2" of uptravel with my worn out springs.

I'm actually getting kind of tired of this one but oh well, it does stick out like a sore thumb. It makes me wish for the "boy, that pinion angle looks pretty bad for a slip yoke transfer case" or "aren't those batteries in a bad spot for damage" or perhaps "forties on half ton axles are stupid" or my favorite "those rear shocks sure are at a bad angle". I can't even get the spring eye to hit the frame when I lift up on the spring eye with the jack. If I keep lifting then the tire pulls the spring away. If the springs were to invert the eye actually gets further from the frame. It only took me two tries to get it that close. When I get new springs I'll probably have to make a wee bit longer shackle since most modern springs have a thicker main leaf from what I have spotted thus far.

Why is it that close you say? Because there are tons of reasons to run shorter shackles if you don't need the "swing" out of longer ones. I don't want my pinion pointed at the ground. I don't see a reason to run 10°+ of castor and make the steering box do double duty--not only turn the vehicle but actually lift it up. My personal favorite is foot long shackles that are designed to promote death wobble through the fact that you can deflect the vehicle's sprung weight from its unsprung weigh a couple inches by merely pushing on the fender.