Give me advice on leaking brake fitting

[Mastiff]

Got new ORD brake lines and they sealed up except for the flare end on one side. I've cranked it down to the point that I'm starting to round out the nut (using a line wrench). WTF might be going on? It doesn't leak a lot, but if I push the pedal there will be a blob of fluid there. I really don't want to have to replace the hard line.

 

[76zimmer]

Check the seat for the flare and also the flare end to be sure it is square and not flared at an angle

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

Make sure the flare surfaces are clean and free of burrs. Even then, they're sometimes troublesome. Using a flare wrench is always the right tool but sometimes loosening the fitting and tightening it again makes them seal right.

 

[Mastiff]

Yeah, I'm using a flare wrench, I just forgot the correct name. I took it all apart and it looked okay, then redid it and it still leaked until I really leaned on it. I don't know for sure if I got it, but I made some progress... held the brake pedal down a while and no leaks. I'll check it again tomorrow.

 

[Mastiff]

Anyone heard of using a copper flare gasket to help seal brakes?

 

[nvrenuf]

I would never put anything in a flared fitting connection, by design it should not need it. If it continues to leak the correct fix is to redo the flare on the hard line.

 

[diesel4me]

I've had to crank down pretty hard on newly flared brake tubing lines to get the flare to seal 100%...often the hex starts stripping,even when using a flare wrench,I've had to resort to using vise-grips on a few..

Be aware if your tightening a brake line onto a rubber hose fitting,the fittings are usually made of brass,and are soft,and can be damaged or stripped pretty easily..so torque carefully!..

Also,no flare fitting needs a "gasket" or copper shim,if it doesn't seat properly,I'd cut the line and re-flare it and try again...

 

[Mastiff]

That copper flare idea came from various auto forums I cam across while surfing on this topic. Apparently the gaskets are commonly used in refrigeration type applications, but will work on brakes. People seems to especially have trouble with stainless lines since they are less malleable.

The ORD lines appear to be steel instead of brass like I had before. If so, this may contribute to a harder seal.

 

[nvrenuf]

Still doesn't make it right.

 

[Mastiff]

Still doesn't make it right.

It looks like I have it sealed anyway (knock on wood), but it's not like it's a trivial thing to reflare the line. In this case there's no extra line to spare, so it would entail ripping the who hard line out from inside the frame structure and replacing it. If I'd spent $$ on prebent SS lines, I'd be even more hesitant. I don't see anything inherently unsafe about using the copper, as long as it doesn't limit the amount of thread engagement.

 

[nvrenuf]

Ok....

 

[Stomis]

I would be interested in giving those copper washers a try on a SS line but on a standard steel line it should be unnecessary. Ive had fittings so temperamental that Ive had to get that last 1/8 crank on them with vice grips to seal up. Not really advisable but it was a quick flip car at work and replacing the line would have been a huge waste of time.

 

[Mastiff]

I would be interested in giving those copper washers a try on a SS line but on a standard steel line it should be unnecessary. Ive had fittings so temperamental that Ive had to get that last 1/8 crank on them with vice grips to seal up. Not really advisable but it was a quick flip car at work and replacing the line would have been a huge waste of time.

So the next guy can be like me, filing off the burrs and rough edges to get the flare to fit again. Of course in my case, I was the guy who f_ed up the fitting the first time. I'd almost never blame someone for trying to get the pain of working on brake lines to stop though.

If you find a good source for those things, let me know. I'm not totally sure how to pick the size, etc. I wouldn't mind having a stash for a future problem.

 

[Stomis]

So the next guy can be like me, filing off the burrs and rough edges to get the flare to fit again. Of course in my case, I was the guy who f_ed up the fitting the first time. I'd almost never blame someone for trying to get the pain of working on brake lines to stop though.

If you find a good source for those things, let me know. I'm not totally sure how to pick the size, etc. I wouldn't mind having a stash for a future problem.

It'll be a long time off if I ever need any of those. If I ever pick up a resto job I may give them a try with SS lines. I put that armored steel stuff on all my **** TBH.