Give me your opinions on a build up.....

[mudseeker]

Hey guys. I will try to keep this short and sweet.
I recently obtained a 90 Blazer,350 TBI,700R4,NP241 and stock axles.
My wife has alotted me $6500 dollars to make a DD that we can also play with in the mud holes on the weekend.
I have a friend who is going to rebuild the 350 (190,000 miles) for $950. The transfer case is also going to be rebuilt. I am also going to purchase a Tuff Country 4" spring lift,new wheels and tires.Although these will be bought outside of my alotted cash. I am planning on running the Remington Mud Brute in 33x12.50x15. This still leaves me with a decent amount of cash to "build up". What would you guys throw on it to make it a decent DD/trail rig?
My oldest daughter loves working on this with me and I am going to do most of it with her help. Any help you throw out is appreciated.
P.S. I intend to throw out the cash to join this weekend-this site just flat rules. That way we can put up pics of our progress so yall can enjoy also.

 

[BigCountryx]

I didn't rebuild my engine, but your in my budget range for what I built and I went D60/14ff on 39.5's. Both axles are stock (for a M1008 ), but completely gone through and rebuilt. You should be able to build a nice rig for that. A couple things I would recomend would be to get x-over steering from the Co. of your choice and a Slip Yoke Eliminator kit for the NP241 while your rebuilding it. Don't know what gears your running, but you could deffinately use 4.10's w/ 33's and a 700R4. The more strain you can take off of that tranny the better, and w/ OD you don't have to worry much about Hwy RPM's. Hope you and your daughter have fun working on it, I sure you will.

 

[southernspeed]

First off...lend me your wife!! Secondly, I went from 31's to 33's now 35's. Get 35's and re-gear (I got 4.10's) If you're not an animal on the throttle your axles will hold up fine. They look good and give you that little bit extra ground clearance.
Good luck, it's great building when there's a bunch of cash sitting there just for that purpose. Good luck.

 

[gauder]

Ya, 33's will look small with a 4" lift. Sounds like a nice project though.

 

[Paxx]

I will second the crossover and slip yoke eliminator. I would go at least 35" tires but probably 37's. A 4" lift can fit up to 39.5's with fender trimming. Tire size really depends on if you keep stock axles under the rig or not. I would suggest at least doing the 3/4 ton swap. It's cheap.

Definitly get lockers front and rear because nothing will take you further through the mud pit. If you think you might go larger than 35's go with 4.56's. There is a carrier split at 4.10 for the front locker. (at least in the 60)

If its a DD get bumpers and rock sliders to keep your sheetmetal clean. Also a winch for if you get stuck.

You shoud be able to get a good rig for the price you have to put into it. Have fun!

Oh and definitly get the steering box brace for added peice of mind.

 

[fireplug]

Ok so far every part has been suggested! Went through the decision making a while back myself, here is what I came up with.

First really try to nail down the type of terrain you are going to be running, it will save you a lot of time, money, and effort. Second decide how nice you want your dd's sheet metal to look and how important it is to get to work on Monday morning. If you aren't relying on the truck to get to work than spend money as you break things!

For Offroad performance you definitely want a locker and winch. If you have decided on big tires and are combining that with a locker, and need the truck on Monday, go with a 14b rear end (full float is even better). Big tires also demand a steering box brace, though they are so cheap I'd pick one up anyway. Strong attachment points are also a biggie front and back so consider how you'll accomplish that ie. tow hooks up front and receiver or custom bumper out back.

For dd duties, if you need your truck looking good...well good luck Sliders will help keep the doors working though. And regearing will keep big tires from eating up your tranny and performance.

Most of your 'needs' really depend on the tire size you decide on. If you can get away with smaller tires you really will be laughing, you will end up with more articulation without trimming, you won't have to regear, and you won't have to change axles. That said be honest with yourself. If you want big tires do it right the first time.

 

[Tra 23]

My 88 is about the same in the driveline dept. It had 2.73 gears in the 10 bolts. I am now running 3.90's and really like them. Not as deep as the 4.10, but work great with the 33's and overdrive. I'd say spend a little on that underpowered tbi engine. Shackle flip kit is a cheap way to get 4" in back.
Tra

 

[mudseeker]

First off,thanks for the info and advice folks! Much appreciated. I beleive we will go with the 35's as far as tires go. I can get my hands on the 3/4 axles from a buddy. Can the stock axles handle the 35's or am I just inviting carnage? How complicated is the X-over steering to set up? Is this something we can do in the driveway? The lockers and winch are must haves. Gotta have lockers to dig deeper holes and the winch to get myself out! Thanks for the info folks.....CK5 kicks ***!

 

[jekbrown]

I can get my hands on the 3/4 axles from a buddy.

Make sure you get a full floating 14b rear end (see the axle ID info in the tech section of this site)... some 3/4 burbs came with a semi-floating 14 bolt rear end...

Can the stock axles handle the 35's or am I just inviting carnage?

A stock 10 bolt front end can hold up to 35s... usually. The 10 bolt rear has to go though, hence the 3/4 ton axle swap. Most people swap over both the front and rear so their wheels are all 8 lug.

How complicated is the X-over steering to set up? Is this something we can do in the driveway?

If you have your knuckles machined to accept a steering arm (not that $pendy) on the passanger side, yes, you can do it in your driveway.

The lockers and winch are must haves.

yeppers. A detroit for your new ff14b rear is cheap and strong. What you put up front is up to you... personally, I wouldn't use a full locker... maybe a truetrac or something.

Thanks for the info folks.....CK5 kicks ***!

no doubt about that.

j

 

[89GMCSuburban]

Ehhh, doesn't the crossover require a 2wd steering box?

I'd agree with all this :
The lift
35" tires (may have to trim the fenders with a 4" kit)
3/4 ton axles (even if it's a SF 14 bolt, better than a 10 bolt)
Gear axles 4.56
I would at the far least lock the rear end
Slip yoke eliminator for the t-case and a good rear d-shaft
steering box bolt in brace and weld on repair kit from ORD
ORD swaybar disconnects
A winch..if you can afford it
the BIGGEST Trans cooler you can put on it

All this stuff will make it a good offroader AND a good DD. Mileage...well....that's another issue.

 

[Leper]

Get some military 1 ton axles. D60/14FF. The 14 will have a G80 locker usually. These axles can be found with really low mileage and not need a rebuild. As an added bonus, they have 4.56 gears which are wonderful with 35s/700r4/241. A locker for the D60 is real nice.

shackle flip the rear
Zero rates front and rear. Little lift now, axle relocation in the future.
BFG Mud Terrains, great offroad and 40K on the street
15" wheels will not clear a D60, 16" at least, 17" gets you more tire selection
HUGE tranny cooler
9K Warn winch
At least a trailer hitch on the rear for an attachment point,
custom bumpers are best
SYE and strong driveshafts
Steering box brace
Crossover is nice
Basic recovery gear and tool set for the trail
Sliders are nice, but I DD my full EXO'd 91(it scares people)
The single most important thing you need for your Blazer is the family here at CK5

 

[jekbrown]

Ehhh, doesn't the crossover require a 2wd steering box?

or a sector shaft swap. I just got a decent 2wd box and swapped it in, no big deal other than the fact that they are heavy and its tricky getting that first bolt started without help from someone.

j