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GM 60 or HP60??

b454rat

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OK, I have both axles to use. The GM is in my truck now, used it today, got stuck. Running the div 205 that is royally pissing me off. I originally got the HP to do the SAS in my 97, but the way things are going, don't know if I will ever do the swap. Thinking about just leaving it stock, for a driver and hauler. If I stay with the GM 60, I have a 400/205 sitting outside, just need to swap guts. If I go with the HP, then I will need to get a driver drop 205, figure out how to hook it to a 400. I can get a div. 205 out of a Ford, this way I wouldn't need to get new shafts. Also, I just bought to boggers for 15" rims. I could just swap outers. I could sell the GM 60 to get the other two boggers and wheels.....
 
go with the hp60.not many guys run them in the older chevy's so itd be more unique, plus it helps ur driveshafts a bunch, im jealous. for the right price ill buy that 32spline gm205 from you :)

i think with the correct backspacing (2.5") you can run the ford calipers with 15's. if not then you could jsut swap the chevy parts onto it and use those brakes
 
I already have 15x12 wheels, with 3.5 b/s. Read somewhere that some calipers can be ground to clear some b/s, but each is different. I have the brakes, so I should just try and see. All the stuff on the HP is new, rotors, calipes, pads, etc. If I do go that route, then the 205 will be for sale, along with the GM 60.
 
I call dibs on the gm 60... how much shipped to 31827.. Will you be wanting to sell it toward the end of the summer or what? PM details :bow:
 
OK, PM me so I have your s/n so i know who wants what. I never shipped a t-case, geussing could put it on a pallet and ship that way. I'll call my shipper and find out. For the axle, figure $200 shipped. I just shipped one to VA, and all the other ones that I shipped were $200, except one that went to WA state, that was $300. But just to give you a heads up on the axle, it might have Ford outers on it. Like I said in my last post, I just bougth boggers and 15" wheels, and the GM 60 is clearanced for 15s. So, inless I get lucky on the Ford brakes, i'll be keeping the GM outers. If I do this, it will be soon, I want to get this done. Getting the ball-n-chain soon, don't know how much time or money I'll have to do ANYTHING if she has her way....
 
I would definetly go high pinion just for the drive line angle...keeps it out of the rocks a little better also.
 
Those high pinion are great for driveshafts. Makes you wonder why they made anything else.
 
mouse said:
Those high pinion are great for driveshafts. Makes you wonder why they made anything else.

Wish they came with passengerside drop,SLOWLY converting one I have with basic back yard tools and no sleeve!

IMG00002.jpg

IMG00005.jpg
 
MEK5 said:
Wish they came with passengerside drop,SLOWLY converting one I have with basic back yard tools and no sleeve!

When you finish, post up a "how to." Looks interesting.
 
my buddy works for teraflex and makes every tera 60 you see and built another guy I know the same thing...took a ford center section and retubed it, man that thing was sweet.
 
mouse said:
When you finish, post up a "how to." Looks interesting.

Yeah,I am taking pictures as I go.Not sure when I will be able to get back to this until I can make up my mind on what springs I am going to use(caster angles)

This is not that hard of a project if you put your mind to it but time consuming if you want to keep it low buck.
I looked around the web for info and found the tube press fit of .006-.010 on pirate and fiqured man thats tight and its going to come out of there hard so I put some pretty heavy push points on there and got ready for battle.

With alittle heat that thing came out of there so easy I felt like a fool for wasting so much time with all the temporary attachments:eek1: :doah:

IMG00001.jpg
 
MEK5 said:
Yeah,I am taking pictures as I go.Not sure when I will be able to get back to this until I can make up my mind on what springs I am going to use(caster angles)

This is not that hard of a project if you put your mind to it but time consuming if you want to keep it low buck.
I looked around the web for info and found the tube press fit of .006-.010 on pirate and fiqured man thats tight and its going to come out of there hard so I put some pretty heavy push points on there and got ready for battle.

With alittle heat that thing came out of there so easy I felt like a fool for wasting so much time with all the temporary attachments:eek1: :doah:

I'm really impressed. I was under the impression that re-tubing was extremely difficult. Can you just swap the sides, after accounting for caster?
 
MEK5 said:
I looked around the web for info and found the tube press fit of .006-.010 on pirate and fiqured man thats tight and its going to come out of there hard so I put some pretty heavy push points on there and got ready for battle.

:eek1::eek1: Isn't that a little tight for a casting? I thought castings had a fairly loose press fit because the casting would crack if it had a tight press.
 
I have plenty of Ford 205s to choose from. Just a matter of getting them. Thanks tho :)
 
id swap chevy stuff on from the knuckles out, the ford stuff is real weak;)
 
That's what I'm gonna do. If I had 16s or 16.5s I would leave it, but spending a grand on TWO boggers and TWO rims, not going back now. I don't wheel very hard, so even the Ford stuff would survive my driving.
 
mouse said:
I'm really impressed. I was under the impression that re-tubing was extremely difficult. Can you just swap the sides, after accounting for caster?

Basically yeah just swap sides without even removing your outter "C"s.if your using a 78-79 housing,if using a later HP you will need to do it differently because it has a really short/long offset.
 
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