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Going to do my first paint job soon.. Just a few questions.

y5mgisi

y5mgisi

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Well i am a beginner although I have been there through-out An entire operation once. And I can make rattle can jobs look good to. Im not an idiot(although im sure a few would beg to differ) and i do have commen sence. So I got my blazer all primered And im going to paint it black. I want it to look good. Not show car quality but just good. So im thinking i'll just buy a gallon of black and a gallon of clear and use the all of both gallons. Trouble is i dont want to mess this up. I need to know how much of what i need to mix with the black. How much of what if anything to mix with the clear. Do i need to wet sand and what is the purpose of it? How long do i need to wait before it can set out in the rain or get washed? Is it ok if my primer got rained on? And just anything else you think that i should know as im only real "up" on the basics. All advice is wecome and gladly accepted. Thanks in advance! /forums/images/graemlins/ears.gif

Mitchell
 
As far as the paint is concerned, choose they brand you want to use (DuPont, PPG, etc.), find out which line is best for you application (do you have a booth, is the booth heated, etc.) and get the tech. sheets for the base and clear coat you want to use. The tech. sheet will give you all the information you need - what needs to be mixed with each paint, approx. air pressure to use, pot life, flash time, time before the first wash, time before the first wax - everything you need to know. Also, get the tech. support number of the company, they can help out if you have any questions the tech sheet doesn't answer. Ask your supplier what they reccomend or what all the shops are buying.

I like DuPont. The tech sheets are loaded with good info. and the techs. at their 1-800 # are very helpful (PPG won't event talk to you).

Wet sanding to about 400 to 600 is a must. Painting is the easy part ... prep. is where the real work is at. You'll never know how bad your prep work is until you're all finished painting. So, get it right the first time and you won't have to do it again!

Also, if you've never painted before, get yourself a few scrap panels or 4'x4' squares of sheetmetal and do a little practice painting first. Sanding runs and doing blends on mistakes is no fun.


Good Luck,

Eric M.
 
Wet sanding is just a method of sanding. You sand with a special sandpaper which you soak in a bucket of water and continue to dip in the bucket to keep wet while sanding. The water helps keep the paper from clogging up. Keeps the dust down too. You'll be amazed how far you can go with one sheet of wet sand paper.

Eric M.
 
For wetsandind you sand it after you paint, it may sound weird but after you paint it will look like a orange peel so you get the wetsanding sanding paper get it good and dripping wet and sand the whole thing till the orange peel is gone them buff the whole truck.
-Chris
 
No sanding between base and clear coat. You can color sand most clear coats, but I haven't found a base that you can color sand and clear over.


Eric M.
 
[ QUOTE ]
in other words, if you fubar the color layer, you have to sand down and spray again?

[/ QUOTE ]

Yep, usually one coat will cover since it's dust or run or water you're sanding out. But no color sanding of the base coat without another coat of base over that.

Eric M.
 
as Eric eluded to, you must have a couple sprayed coats for a final before clear...

you can sand that base to finish off any little imperfections, just make sure to throw a couple more coats on... 600 or 1000 work well... it also works like a tinted sealer, in that those topcoats cover instantly...

Ryokens paint tip o' the day - put an old sock over that 1 qt syphon cup if it gets a drip going from not having a dripless setup... /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif hmm, need a graemlin for a brainfart /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
 
Strangely enough, I have NO IDEA WHAT YOUR TALKING ABOUT!!!!

Help. /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif Please explain this about drippyness. I've only used a siphon type, for the primer, it kept drying before it hit it. I've bought a new one, And lucky for me, I can acutally paint most of my truck, off my truck. (Fiberglass body panels, and new door skins).
 
just a recollected brainfart from many moons ago that i thought might help someone if the situation arose /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

back in the day before gravity feeds, all we had was syphon and pressure fed... some of the earlier syphons wheren't dripless or didn't work well and would have paint come out the vent at the top of the cup...

an oldtimer showed me how if you pull an old tube sock up from the bottom of the cup, it would bunch around the top and absorb any paint ready to drip on your lovely new paintjob. /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif

every syphon pretty much has a dripless setup on top of the gun these days, a hose, fitting you turn, etc. so it usually isn't much of an issue any more, unless they're not working properly...... crappy cup gaskets can leak too...

oh, and primer spraying like that is generally WAY too thick..

one rule of thumb for putting any material thru a spray cap is....

most guns have an aircap rated between 30 and 80 (30 being small, for laquers, sometimes basecoat, etc. 80 being larger for urethanes, epoxies, etc). most materials will spray fine thru this range of caps with a viscosity drip count between 5 and 8.

this is stirring your paint, primer, etc with a paint stick, pull it out and count seconds till it stops dripping...

thats the backyard method, there are fancier ways to measure viscosity..

hope some of that helps.. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
after rereading your first post to see about any specifac questions, i see you are thinking black with clear...

there are 3 basic ways to go about this... you can go basecoat/clearcoat... or straight single stage black paint/ then clear OR you can progressively add clear to your single stage paint..

i can give ya tips on any of the 3 methods that may help ya out... there are many ways to paint a car for different effects..
 
Tell us how the "progressivly adding clear" to the single stage works? I've heard about this but none of the manufactures list a method. What are the benefits of this? Can you still color sand and polish?

Thanks,

Eric M.
 
its basically what your thinking it is.... once you are fully covered with your color, you begin adding clear to the mix. i generally will go 2 coats mix, sometimes 3 before straight clear.. i'll usually go 50% clear, then 75% or 25, 50 then 75... topping off with 2 or 3 straight clear depending on how much i think i may have to pull off the top..

the best way to do that kinda work is to lay on about 4 coats of color. dry overnight.. block dead flat with 600. then a couple straight color coats, then begin adding clear.. but you can do it straight thru on a good day..

it gives the paint a much deeper look.. but is riskier if your spraying in a chicken coop /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif you really want perfect coats when adding clear (no bugs, boogers or dust)... you don't want to buff thru your top 100% clear it will start to look funky..

i've done it with Imron, Glassurit, PPG but can't guarantee all product lines wont act funky when mixed...
 
can I come by and take a lesson? I'll bring beer and pizza. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif /forums/images/graemlins/bow.gif /forums/images/graemlins/bow.gif
 
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