A few years back I tossed a rod and it ate up the crank . So I tried in vain to get a used crankshaft with no luck . 2 years ago I lucked into a complete 6.2 . Well I switched jobs and never could get to the swap . I had it in the back up my pickup(covered up of course) Then I lost the keys .Then I spent another year getting keys made . Now the engine is in my shop and had no water in the engine . Now the question sorry so long winded . The engine I have is out of a 3/4 ton truck with no egr . Thinking about my old engine and when I dropped the pan the cylinders walls looked great . The only metal is from the rod going . Now I wondering if I should rob the crankshaft and rod and just fix my original engine . Is there any advantage to using the replacement engine for my Blazer . I have never heard this engine run and it came out of a old farm truck . I have a non egr intake on my original already . The heads different ? I would like more naturally instead of installing a turbo. Thanks
CK5
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Going to get my blazer running with a 6.2
- Thread starter 6.2 man
- Start date
I'd try to fire it up on a stand or on the ground first,to ensure the engine is worth installing,see if it has decent oil pressure--at the least,do a compression test ..then go from there...
I assume that neither engine currently has a turbo setup? (If one of them does, I'd be interested in buying it off ya.)
If your old engine is in good shape, and the new one is in unknown shape, swapping the crank is a fine idea. What years are the engines from? If either of the engines is from 1982 (first year), it will have a stronger block and it will be painted red (and injectors will be different). The engines should be the same aside from the intakes (which you have already changed). The medium-duty 6.2 may have the pump turned up some, it is rated for slightly more power from the factory (but the parts are the same). Prechambers vary between the years, some offer more power, some offer better mileage. A late-model block would have a 1-piece rear main seal (which I would prefer to the 2-piece seals that most of these engines got).
I'd fire it up and see which one runs more strongly, the new engine might have newer injectors that are less worn out than yours (unless you've replaced them).
Basically, grab the best parts from each engine and piece them together in whatever way suits your fancy. Everything (aside from 1982 heads/injectors) should freely swap across until you arrive at the best combination of parts.
Check whichever block you use for cracks in the web that supports the center crankshaft bearings. And this would be a really convenient time to replace the harmonic damper (both are common failure points). Rear main seal, too.
If your old engine is in good shape, and the new one is in unknown shape, swapping the crank is a fine idea. What years are the engines from? If either of the engines is from 1982 (first year), it will have a stronger block and it will be painted red (and injectors will be different). The engines should be the same aside from the intakes (which you have already changed). The medium-duty 6.2 may have the pump turned up some, it is rated for slightly more power from the factory (but the parts are the same). Prechambers vary between the years, some offer more power, some offer better mileage. A late-model block would have a 1-piece rear main seal (which I would prefer to the 2-piece seals that most of these engines got).
I'd fire it up and see which one runs more strongly, the new engine might have newer injectors that are less worn out than yours (unless you've replaced them).
Basically, grab the best parts from each engine and piece them together in whatever way suits your fancy. Everything (aside from 1982 heads/injectors) should freely swap across until you arrive at the best combination of parts.
Check whichever block you use for cracks in the web that supports the center crankshaft bearings. And this would be a really convenient time to replace the harmonic damper (both are common failure points). Rear main seal, too.
Tear both engines down and fully inspect all the big parts of each engine. Use the best of both to make one good engine. Use ARP stuff for mains, and heads at least. New bearings. Inspect and measure bores and de-glaze with a ball hone at least. New balancer, new gaskets and seals, 4911 IP and rebuilt injectors. You're clearly not in a hurry, you might as well do it right and have a 6.2 that will ease your mind and give you many many years of reliable service.
No turbo ....I will try and fire up the new engine .My engine is a 83 and the new engine is a 84 or 86 ?
Engines should should be identical aside from emissions equipment.
