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Going to look at a k20 Diesel today

R

rufusbooth

1/2 ton status
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Jun 6, 2006
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Northern California
1985 K20 Long bed with a 6.5 Diesel. I am not familiar with these motors so give me some schooling on what to look for on these motors that should make me run away!

Cheers,

Rufufs
 
Agreed, he claims a swap. not sure if a swap can be identified or not between 6.2 and 6.5

Here is a link to a photo gallery of the truck with a pic of the engine.

Can someone identify the engine? he claims Engine came out of a 1995 chevy ¾ ton Van. It is not a turbo
 
I saw that add on CL, something about it rubbed me the wrong way. Maybe its just the way he worded it.
 
look on the right side of the block in front of the head(I think that was the spot if not, try the other side) and it will have 6.2 or 6.5 statmped on it. If it was rebuilt to be a 6.5, then there is no way of telling.
 
Thanks desertrat67, good info. will look at that. Hope it is because we bought it. :-) It has a bit of a miss on a cold start. little puffs of white smoke (unburned diesel) for about 45 seconds then the engine smooths right out and the smoke clears up. I am guessing it has a couple of bad glow plugs.

Can you guys point me to a NOOBs guide to Chevy diesel engines? got to learn the basics here. :-)

Cheers,

Rufus
 
this sounds normal for this engine. The glow plugs just warm up the air in the chamber for the start, then it is up to compression to do the rest. Once the engine warms up (sometimes after a few minutes depending on how cold it is) it should smooth out like you mentioned.
 
As said, some white smoke on cold start is considered normal as soon as it disappears during app. 30 seconds. A somewhat rough idle after starting is often caused by 1 (or more) glow plugs not working or a fuel issue.

There is a good diesel section here at CK5. Pretty sure that if you do have problems with the engine, there will be good advice soon. :wink1:

Walter
 
What he said. Welcome to the rattle and clank crowd.
 
Thanks for the welcome guys! I had a feeling the rough idle was fairly normal and may just be GPs. I just picked up a full set of delco 60 GPs and will be swapping them out today.

It also appears that I have a problem with the GP controller. I can start the system by manually bypassing the controller (grounding the low side of the solenoid for no more than 6 seconds) but the system will not run automatic.

I have replaced a confirmed bad GP solenoid. I have confirmed that the block temp sensor is closed when the engine is cold and things should "glow". the 2 black ground wires leading to the GP controller have good continuity to ground. The pink wire on the GP solenoid has 12V when the key is on. The blue wire going from controller to temp sensor to the solenoid grnd terminal has good continuity.

Checking voltages on the system I am not totally clear on the voltage that should normal be available at the brown wire entering the GP controller. it does not seem right to me. with the key on I am reading just under 5 volts to this wire. from what I can make out in my crappy wiring diagram I believe the brown wire ties into the pink IGN #1 wire and should have 12V on it.

Can anyone confirm what that voltage should be when the key is on and engine cold?

Cheers,

Rufus
 
rufusbooth said:
Thanks for the welcome guys! I had a feeling the rough idle was fairly normal and may just be GPs. I just picked up a full set of delco 60 GPs and will be swapping them out today.

It also appears that I have a problem with the GP controller. I can start the system by manually bypassing the controller (grounding the low side of the solenoid for no more than 6 seconds) but the system will not run automatic.

I have replaced a confirmed bad GP solenoid. I have confirmed that the block temp sensor is closed when the engine is cold and things should "glow". the 2 black ground wires leading to the GP controller have good continuity to ground. The pink wire on the GP solenoid has 12V when the key is on. The blue wire going from controller to temp sensor to the solenoid grnd terminal has good continuity.

Checking voltages on the system I am not totally clear on the voltage that should normal be available at the brown wire entering the GP controller. it does not seem right to me. with the key on I am reading just under 5 volts to this wire. from what I can make out in my crappy wiring diagram I believe the brown wire ties into the pink IGN #1 wire and should have 12V on it.

Can anyone confirm what that voltage should be when the key is on and engine cold?

Cheers,

Rufus
Click to expand...

I don't remember off hand but if you go to the GM diesel Forum on this website you should get all your answers.
Where in Northern CA?
 
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