What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Good shop for regearing in DFW?

clandr1

clandr1

1/2 ton status
Joined
Oct 30, 2009
Posts
512
Reaction score
1
Location
Texas
Does anyone know of a shop (or individual) that does good, inexpensive regearing work in the DFW area?

The guy I normally would use is unavailable for the near future. I called a reputable local shop (Baertrax) and they wanted $900 in labor to install the gears I purchased online, which seems expensive (maybe it is the going rate for shops, but I can't spend that much on labor).

Any ideas/suggestions?

Thanks in advance,
 
If you're just dropping the truck off expect to spend at least that much. If you pull the axles and strip them down yourself you can save a decent amount. What's your plan?
 
I was planning on dropping the truck off, but I suppose I can call and see how much they would charge for me bringing in the stripped axles.

I would also assume I'll need new ubolts when I go to reinstall, should I go this route?
 
Might try Ft Worth gear and axle, never used them personally.

I have used Truck Parts Specialist on Mockingbird in Dallas for driveline work a few times and never had a problem. Fast turnaround and decent pricing. One of the guys down there is into offroading and we had a pretty good talk last time. They do gear box and differential work as well, thinking about getting them to rebuild my 12 bolt. They carry Spicer parts as well which most auto chains these days don't.

Met Josh down at Baertrax when I took the Chalet in there and had him measure it for a cage before it got wrecked. Seemed like a really good guy, but he was moving shops at the time and was looking at over a month before he could get my truck in. Don't know what his turnaround is now, but will probably send the Jimmy down there for a cage when I get it back together.

I'd definitely drop the axle and take it to whoever you choose. That's probably a couple hundred in cost easy it would save you.
 
clandr1 said:
I was planning on dropping the truck off, but I suppose I can call and see how much they would charge for me bringing in the stripped axles.

I would also assume I'll need new ubolts when I go to reinstall, should I go this route?
Click to expand...

For just dropping the truck off $900 isn't bad. To give you some perspective I spent about $500 and my axles were out, stripped and cleaned before they went to the shop so all they had to do was start working.

As far as the u-bolt question goes the "correct" answer to that question is yes, always replace your u-bolts when you take them out because the threads stretch when you torque them down.
I'll also tell you I've re-used some u-bolts from time to time that weren't stretched/chewed up with no problems.

Also why the re-gear? If it's the truck in your picture it doesn't look like it's running that big of a tire.
 
clandr1 said:
Does anyone know of a shop (or individual) that does good, inexpensive regearing work in the DFW area?

The guy I normally would use is unavailable for the near future. I called a reputable local shop (Baertrax) and they wanted $900 in labor to install the gears I purchased online, which seems expensive (maybe it is the going rate for shops, but I can't spend that much on labor).

Any ideas/suggestions?

Thanks in advance,
Click to expand...
Is that for 2 axles?
I say that is on the lower end of going rate, avaerage is more like $600 per axle.
I would never pay that much for it so I understand your reluctance, but that is because I would rather do it myself.
 
Alpha, thanks for the offer but I opted to take it to Baertrax and dropped it off yesterday. When I arrived, I talked to the tech, Brian, who would be regearing my truck. He said that I might need a new axle housing because over time it can wear away from use and could cause a failure in the new R&P setup.

I got a phone call this morning and he said that it might hold out, but to his estimation the housing would start shredding in 6 months time and little pieces of metal would go into the gear oil and R&P. They are currently looking up pricing on a replacement. I couldn't find anything locally on craigslist that would work.

An obvious question: is this common? The Jimmy has around 160k on it, but it was never abused or used for towing -- it's led a pretty easy life.
 
That's a load of crap, a shop telling you that you'll probably need a new axle before they even open it up then once they open it say they aren't going to stand behind their work because of something else. I'd go somewhere else if it was me. Plus you can find 10 bolts for cheap to free all day long on here, pirate and Craigslist.
 
I can only speak from my experience. When I originally had the truck, I had the rear end go out at 90,545. Broke a tooth in there somehow. Basically similar driving as you with mainly highway use. I had 3.42's at the time. To rebuild everything was about $1000 or so. I decided to find two used axles with 3.73's in them and then threw them under the truck. At around 166,000 miles I sold the truck.

After buying it back, as far as I can tell, the same axles are there but who knows whats been done to them since. I'm now at 326,000 miles but I am in the process of installing a 14 bolt SF. Hopefully that will take care of any of my concerns for the future.....
 
I just had a lengthy phone conversation and I misunderstood the issue: it wasn't the housing that was bad, but the axle shafts themselves. I'm working with them to find a low cost replacement.
 
jeff in co said:
What gears are you going to? Tire size? Just curious when it's all done.

Yukon axle shafts are always good......

Randy's Ring and Pinion - $164 each

http://www.ringpinion.com/b2c/Produ...=&Model=&DriveType=&DiffId=&Source=DiffWizard
Click to expand...

Thanks for the link. I'm wearing Google out right now :D

I'm running 3.42 with 33's right now and the truck can't make up it's mind in OD on the highway, so I'm going to 4.10 gears. From what I've read online it makes the best compromise between mileage and power and puts it pretty close to factory. I even saw one thread where a member mentions a truck with this config was getting around 15+ MPG on the highway which would be wonderful...

Truck has a factory 350 with 700R4.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom