CK5
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Got a quote for a roll cage...how does this sound?

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Especially since you boys up in Colorado like to wheel on the edge of cliffs and crap. /forums/images/graemlins/screwy.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif

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Yeah it kinda brings back memories of TJ's K5 sitting in a tree 15feet down a pretty damn steep cliff...Hell I don't know if even the stoutest cage in the world would have survived the tumble down that hill up at Spring Creek

I am going ot go over and sit down and figure out EXACTLY what nick is going to be doing before I give him the go-ahead...

Chris
 
Fully done, with correct support and knowledge (all the tube in the world cannot make up for experience and quality) that sounds like a fair price. Is it DOM or HREW as that make a price difference as well. What size tube 1.5, 1.75, or 2.00? I did build my own cage, but that was after 3 sets of bumpers, sliders, and the most important part -> research. I talked to anybody that did cages, bikes, armor ect. just for pointers and hints. It worked out well but I did waste a good 40 feet of tube in the cage alone (this was a year ago when it was less than $1 a foot). Mine is a simple (for now) 6 point 2 seater cage made out of 2" .120 hrew.

Hope my .02 can help.
 
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That's not true. Most, if not all race cars I've ever seen have the cage tied into the body.

Also, most rolls off road aren't going to be that severe anyway.....

I think there are pros and cons to going either way, but I believe that overall, going just to the body is better for me.

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He is talking race...not rice /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif

You would never pass tech anyware a cage is required if the cage wasn't attatched to something structural and not just sheet metal.

I have seen frame rails crack with and without cages attached to them. I don't buy the claim that your frame WILL crack if you attatch your cage to it. We have plenty of 5-10 year old race trucks running around here that I have teched in at events that are fine.

Personly my wheelers frame has lasted alot longer with my full cage than without. I got the truck in 97 and wheeled it thru 2000. The body and frame were so trashed that I ditched it all in 2001; took my running gear, some 44"tsls, a new frame, and a Toyota body to make a hybrid. Only ran a cab/rear exo till 2003, then finished the front exo after the front sheetmetal was beyond repair. The frame is fine...the only damage is from me landing on rocks with it.

Sure the mouning points are considered stress risers. But by bracing the frame with the cage it makes it so much stronger the frame last longer even with the added stress risers.

I would never have a cage tied to a body only. For the little amount of time and tube it takes to run the cage to the frame its absolutly worth it.
 

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